Author |
Message |
Yabbadubbadoo Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012 Posts: 914
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:28 pm Post subject: A question about Caster |
|
|
I've seen a number of cars on picture feeds in FB and the like sporting an aggressive down rake to toward the front like the one below.
I was just thinking it must wander like a drunk sailor due to losing its factory caster angle. Can you or has anyone installed a shim like a beetle behind the lower beam? I know it's more difficult than the circular beam cross section of the beetle and it has to sandwich behind the rubber mounts but is it totally impossible to add some caster when you need it on a type 3?
_________________ Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tram Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003 Posts: 22728 Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Caster is adjustable at both the upper and lower ball joints enough to prevent tire wear in these cases. The REAL problem with lowered front ends is that the lowering puts a severe strain on ball joints, beam bushings, and steering linkage that no amount of adjusting will cure. The wheel is designed to bounce in an "arc" on a proper height front end and lowering the car lessens the arc, which strains other mating load bearing components.
The other thing that can strain front beams over time is too much tire pressure.
EDIT: I meant to say that CAMBER is adjustable- caster is built into the beam/ car. I don't know of any caster compensation available to the Type 3. _________________ Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
Bryan67 wrote: |
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012 Posts: 914
|
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks, yeah I thought so. Caster is built in and camber is adjustable with the eccentric ball joint but I don't know of anyone who's been able to add additional positive caster to help the steering self centre when the car has that pro-stock rake angle to it. I'm aware of the magnified wear of a lowered front end and I thought drop spindles would address that in a moderately lowered car but yeah I don't know of anyone who's adjusted caster to compensate for rake. The other thing rake would do is shift the weight distribution but a little more front weight might be nice to remove some understeer.
Anyhow, I was just curious. I see a lot of cars with wild looking stance and the more I learn the more I figure that they've made a lot of compromises and I suspect many of which they are blissfully ignorant of. _________________ Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
unfortunately it is the case the Tram states.
The only benefit I have personally noticed having a slight rake (not like that! in the picture ) is high speed stability especially when windy as a rake helps form a vacuum under the car which increases with speed.
key is to find a balance between loss of caster and aero gains.
I run stock height rear with front lower by about 20mm? its only a very subtle rake but it does help a bit. I can't feel that I lost any handling with the front only slightly dropped. _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34013 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
vlad01 wrote: |
unfortunately it is the case the Tram states.
The only benefit I have personally noticed having a slight rake (not like that! in the picture ) is high speed stability especially when windy as a rake helps form a vacuum under the car which increases with speed.
key is to find a balance between loss of caster and aero gains.
I run stock height rear with front lower by about 20mm? its only a very subtle rake but it does help a bit. I can't feel that I lost any handling with the front only slightly dropped. |
I am planning to set mine up l like yours Vlad, too, when I rework the front end. I expect it will help the high speed stability. Raising the rear (or drastically lowering the front) upsets the best balanced handling for a rear-engined car, which ends to oversteer suddenly. VW wised up and raised the '67 Bug front while softening the rear, all in an attempt to make the front end take more of the load, adding understeer to counteract the natural oversteer. When I see cars lowered in front a lot, I really wonder if they only drive on boulevards or in a straight line. I would be unhappy driving one of these in canyons at high speed. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo wrote: |
Thanks, yeah I thought so. Caster is built in and camber is adjustable with the eccentric ball joint but I don't know of anyone who's been able to add additional positive caster to help the steering self centre when the car has that pro-stock rake angle to it. I'm aware of the magnified wear of a lowered front end and I thought drop spindles would address that in a moderately lowered car but yeah I don't know of anyone who's adjusted caster to compensate for rake. The other thing rake would do is shift the weight distribution but a little more front weight might be nice to remove some understeer.
Anyhow, I was just curious. I see a lot of cars with wild looking stance and the more I learn the more I figure that they've made a lot of compromises and I suspect many of which they are blissfully ignorant of. |
I think several people were looking at having some "caster shims" made up for our cars, but I haven't heard anything since (this was back in 06-07). Basically you'd re-make the rubber parts with the lower rear part of the beam bushing being thicker to tip the top of the beam backward (although you're really just kicking the bottom forward).
However, IF you really want to add caster to the front of a type 3, you have to cut the frame head off, and move it and then re-weld it back together. I did this on my 71 Notch, when I replaced the frame head. I think I added something like 5 degrees of caster to it, knowing I was going to lower the front. But, I was also right at the limit of getting the beam to body bolts back in place due to the amount of tipping the beam went thru.
The car was very stable at 70+ on long flat straight roads, and cross winds didn't seem to bother it as much. It was however a litle more difficult to turn into parking spaces, unless you were moving (a direct result of having more caster than normal). _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
for the rubber collars. I think using the late lower collars is always a good idea as they already add extra caster.
what we need is to have upper collars made with an offset towards the rear of the car because the uppers are centered and have adjustment room available while the late lower ones are already maxed out from factory. _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
KTPhil wrote: |
vlad01 wrote: |
unfortunately it is the case the Tram states.
The only benefit I have personally noticed having a slight rake (not like that! in the picture ) is high speed stability especially when windy as a rake helps form a vacuum under the car which increases with speed.
key is to find a balance between loss of caster and aero gains.
I run stock height rear with front lower by about 20mm? its only a very subtle rake but it does help a bit. I can't feel that I lost any handling with the front only slightly dropped. |
I am planning to set mine up l like yours Vlad, too, when I rework the front end. I expect it will help the high speed stability. Raising the rear (or drastically lowering the front) upsets the best balanced handling for a rear-engined car, which ends to oversteer suddenly. VW wised up and raised the '67 Bug front while softening the rear, all in an attempt to make the front end take more of the load, adding understeer to counteract the natural oversteer. When I see cars lowered in front a lot, I really wonder if they only drive on boulevards or in a straight line. I would be unhappy driving one of these in canyons at high speed. |
vw did raise the front on the SA beetles but thats it! they are SA beetles!
nothing like IRS equipped cars or type 3s. I personally think applying the same to later cars upsets the handling. I never seen a factory press photo of the late type 3 with front up. They were always level
I had 2 type 3s where the rear sagged thus making the front higher by a fair bit. handles like crap! moved around a lot at higher speed, understeered like I had roller skates for the front lol. _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jaransonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2005 Posts: 1263 Location: Dearborn, MI
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012 Posts: 914
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 7:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Interesting info jaransonT3.
Tipping my hat to you for going into detailed investigation and doing your own measurements on the topic.
I noticed the different length arms too and had expected the caster to change somewhat but had no idea exactly how much. I assume its something to do with adding turn-in capability under braking before a corner. That's just a guess though.
So dumping a type 3 on its belly even with same lowering amount front and back is going to have adverse affect on caster and straight line stability. It's clear when I see your sketch.
You had referred to a solution involving a remanufactured clamp rubber with added caster. I wonder if it could be a little simpler like mill two strips of polyurethane or Delrin sheet with a slight wedge shape to line the lower rear clamp face.
Kerf it or just heat it to bend around the clamp shape and rivet it in position with four rivets.
Then use the original rubbers for the beam. The lowest clamp bolt will look slightly more open but one or two degrees would not amount to a huge gap. _________________ Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
someone with good engineering knowledge ans skills and access to a 5 axis CNC could mill the moulds to use for polyurethane collars as a starting point.
Eventually you could lead that to full rubber moulding tooling once testing and tooling shape is perfected.
The problem is getting someone to do it as a jobs would cost in to the 10s of $K potentially. If you have access to such machinery and software like solid works then its just a matter of materials and finding free time to play and design. _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
hmmm, your 2d model does make no sense lol.
where is the caster and why does it go the wrong way when the travel arc is in the upward position? _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo wrote: |
Interesting info jaransonT3.
Tipping my hat to you for going into detailed investigation and doing your own measurements on the topic.
I noticed the different length arms too and had expected the caster to change somewhat but had no idea exactly how much. I assume its something to do with adding turn-in capability under braking before a corner. That's just a guess though.
So dumping a type 3 on its belly even with same lowering amount front and back is going to have adverse affect on caster and straight line stability. It's clear when I see your sketch.
You had referred to a solution involving a remanufactured clamp rubber with added caster. I wonder if it could be a little simpler like mill two strips of polyurethane or Delrin sheet with a slight wedge shape to line the lower rear clamp face.
Kerf it or just heat it to bend around the clamp shape and rivet it in position with four rivets.
Then use the original rubbers for the beam. The lowest clamp bolt will look slightly more open but one or two degrees would not amount to a huge gap. |
I think you could do that. It might take a couple of attempts to get the thickness "just right", but I think it would work. I don't think I'd rivit the "shim" to the beam though, as that could cause other problems (rust). _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012 Posts: 914
|
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Bobnotch I was thinking that rivitingbthe shim to the frame head side clamp would be necessary to stop it creeping out of position. Just an idea. _________________ Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vlad01 Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 3069 Location: Australia
|
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 4:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
I just checked my caster. It shows about +4º ish as it should be.
so that 2d model in the link has something wrong with it lol. _________________ The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
|
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 9:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo wrote: |
Bobnotch I was thinking that rivitingbthe shim to the frame head side clamp would be necessary to stop it creeping out of position. Just an idea. |
That might work out well, or you could drill and tap the frame head, and use countersunk screws (in case you wanted to change them out). _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Yabbadubbadoo Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2012 Posts: 914
|
Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 11:05 am Post subject: |
|
|
vlad01 wrote: |
I just checked my caster. It shows about +4º ish as it should be.
so that 2d model in the link has something wrong with it lol. |
The drawing might still be right. If you see the spindle is clearly trailing the centerline of the top and bottom ball joints so the kingpin angle is offset in relation to the trailing position of the wheel spindle. I believe it's this trail angle which is defining the caster and that angle looks about 5degrees to me!
And BTW, how did you measure the caster? Just curious. _________________ Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|