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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31360
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Yesterday 8:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I'd check the toe in first. You can do this with a measuring tape and a helper. Pretty much the front of the tires should measure 1/8" less than at the rear; measure from the first "channel" from the outside of the tire tread.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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vamram 
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7300
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Yesterday 8:38 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Doing a routine brake inspection on my '73 Super, I discovered the front tires were shot. Looks like the shop I took it to for an alignment last summer after I replaced the front tie rods and ball joints f'd up the front alignment. Car doesn't pull and tracks straight so I figured all was good after I left the shop. Both front tires have worn out in the exact same pattern - on the inside. As the car sits on the ground it looks like outer 50% of the tire doesn't even contact the ground!!!  Damn tires had at least 10k left on them too.
Question I have is - can I adjust this myself by rotating the camber bolt on the inner end of the control arms?
Thanks.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2024 7:21 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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[quote="mikeonthebike"]
| Sloanstavern wrote: |
This windshield was in the bug when I bought it and for the life of me, I can’t figure it out. Those snowflake patterns are in between the glass panes and look like they’re there on purpose.
How on earth could something like that be sold? Anyone ever see something like that?
[
Looks pretty neat but no, that's not supposed to be happening. Windshields are laminated, 2 sheets of glass with safety film in between. Some kind of separation or air pockets in it. Similar to when you see cheap window tinting get air pockets. Time for a new windshield. |
Thanks - Yeah I know it is toast, but that looked to me more like an intenionial pattern rather than a lamination failure, just thought was quie odd |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2024 7:19 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| EVfun wrote: |
| Sloanstavern wrote: |
I am working my way through the install of a universal painless, wiring harness. So far so good . I do have a question about the brake light switches on the master cylinder. I have three leads coming from the switches bundle together into three bayonet connectors. However, my painless harness only has a power feed and a return for the bake switch. Based on the schematic, it looks like one set of wires from the switches, feeds power to the lights, ( red/black 81) which I don’t need since that will come from the new fuse block. The other two must be power and ground, does that sound right? Thanks
74 super beetle
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It sounds like your replacement harness does not have the half brake failure warning light like the stock '74 harness.
Anyway, ignition switched and fused power is applied to terminals 82a and the brake lights are powered by terminals 81 when the brakes are applied. This is a redundant brake light system so you have brake lights even if one half of the master cylinder fails.
K7 is the overly complex dash brake warning light system. It connects to both terminals 81a. If only one of the brake light switches works and the other stays off there will be power on the combined 81a terminals. The extra circuitry in the warning light is a test system that turns the brake warning light on when you first turn the ignition switch on (before starting the engine). |
Thank you - that is very helpful. I solved the problem by trial and error - My brake system was almost dry so 0 pressure on the switch. I bled them , then tested for conectivity and bingo - found the circuit ( you are correct, the 2 redundent leads, then need to complete the circuit with the thrid)
The Painless harness had an input and output to the switch, I left the redundant lead vacant. I guess I could plug it in via pigtail |
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5473
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2024 9:07 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sloanstavern wrote: |
I am working my way through the install of a universal painless, wiring harness. So far so good . I do have a question about the brake light switches on the master cylinder. I have three leads coming from the switches bundle together into three bayonet connectors. However, my painless harness only has a power feed and a return for the bake switch. Based on the schematic, it looks like one set of wires from the switches, feeds power to the lights, ( red/black 81) which I don’t need since that will come from the new fuse block. The other two must be power and ground, does that sound right? Thanks
74 super beetle
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It sounds like your replacement harness does not have the half brake failure warning light like the stock '74 harness.
Anyway, ignition switched and fused power is applied to terminals 82a and the brake lights are powered by terminals 81 when the brakes are applied. This is a redundant brake light system so you have brake lights even if one half of the master cylinder fails.
K7 is the overly complex dash brake warning light system. It connects to both terminals 81a. If only one of the brake light switches works and the other stays off there will be power on the combined 81a terminals. The extra circuitry in the warning light is a test system that turns the brake warning light on when you first turn the ignition switch on (before starting the engine).
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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mikeonthebike
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 952
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2024 3:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sloanstavern wrote: |
This windshield was in the bug when I bought it and for the life of me, I can’t figure it out. Those snowflake patterns are in between the glass panes and look like they’re there on purpose.
How on earth could something like that be sold? Anyone ever see something like that?
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Looks pretty neat but no, that's not supposed to be happening. Windshields are laminated, 2 sheets of glass with safety film in between. Some kind of separation or air pockets in it. Similar to when you see cheap window tinting get air pockets. Time for a new windshield. |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2024 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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This windshield was in the bug when I bought it and for the life of me, I can’t figure it out. Those snowflake patterns are in between the glass panes and look like they’re there on purpose.
How on earth could something like that be sold? Anyone ever see something like that?
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2024 9:51 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I am working my way through the install of a universal painless, wiring harness. So far so good . I do have a question about the brake light switches on the master cylinder. I have three leads coming from the switches bundle together into three bayonet connectors. However, my painless harness only has a power feed and a return for the bake switch. Based on the schematic, it looks like one set of wires from the switches, feeds power to the lights, ( red/black 81) which I don’t need since that will come from the new fuse block. The other two must be power and ground, does that sound right? Thanks
74 super beetle
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7300
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2024 4:36 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| ltjohnb wrote: |
| vamram wrote: |
| The plastic box is an expansion tank for fumes my guess is that the fumes possibly condense in there and return the tank or get blown back to the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel. Someone who understands these things better can pipe in. |
Here is a super detailed walk through of the system.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713211 |
Yep, that's the definitive one. I *always* reference folks to that, especially newbies who get bombarded by the pinheads who tell them to "just rip it out." Only thing missing is it doesn't address the later Super Beetle layout.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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ltjohnb
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2020
Posts: 46
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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| Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2024 2:12 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
| The plastic box is an expansion tank for fumes my guess is that the fumes possibly condense in there and return the tank or get blown back to the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel. Someone who understands these things better can pipe in. |
Here is a super detailed walk through of the system.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713211
_________________
74 Super Beetle Sedan "Vader"
79 Super Beetle Convertible "Mello"
19 Jetta "Blanco Muerte"
22 Taos "Betty White" |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
| The plastic box is an expansion tank for fumes my guess is that the fumes possibly condense in there and return the tank or get blown back to the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel. Someone who understands these things better can pipe in. |
That sounds right |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7300
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 2:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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The plastic box is an expansion tank for fumes my guess is that the fumes possibly condense in there and return the tank or get blown back to the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel. Someone who understands these things better can pipe in.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5473
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Has anyone mapped out what each of those lines does? I know the large hose is to vent the tank while filling it. I’d love to understand the purpose of the rest of the small lines.
The plastic vapor box with 4 small hose barbs often breaks, and the evap system was never inspected in WA. We used to connect together the lines at the left rear of the tank and run the small hose off the large vent line around past the spot for the vapor box and down the left side to the front of the tank, ending it below the tank under the car like 1961-1967 Bugs.
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 10:05 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Maybe these will help? For the 3-hose T, one comes from the nipple in FRONT of the tank filler pipe; 2nd from the nipple where the fat rubber hose joins the filler pipe to the back fat nipple on the tank; and the 3rd goes to one of the 2 nipples on the LEFT side of the rectangular plastic evap tank. The two on the right side of the tank connect to the left nipples of the plastic evap tank.
THANK YOU - it does,
I also forgot about the charcoal canister in the Psg rear wheel well, that's the rouge small nipple! |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7300
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 9:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sloanstavern wrote: |
I’m taking a break from wiring. I’m trying to get the fuel tank situated. ‘74 super
Two questions number one on the passenger side there’s a threaded port from the fill pipe, I assume it connects to that matching port on the rear of the tank.
Second question I’ve got three small diameter ports two on the driver side, one on the passenger. I have this odd nylon contraption that appears to connect them, but I have three ports on the tank and four ports on this critter, any tips on how that’s to be plumbed up would be appreciated.
Thanks. |
Maybe these will help? For the 3-hose T, one comes from the nipple in FRONT of the tank filler pipe; 2nd from the nipple where the fat rubber hose joins the filler pipe to the back fat nipple on the tank; and the 3rd goes to one of the 2 nipples on the LEFT side of the rectangular plastic evap tank. The two on the right side of the tank connect to the left nipples of the plastic evap tank.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 5473
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 7:28 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Sloanstavern wrote: |
I’m taking a break from wiring. I’m trying to get the fuel tank situated. ‘74 super
Two questions number one on the passenger side there’s a threaded port from the fill pipe, I assume it connects to that matching port on the rear of the tank.
Second question I’ve got three small diameter ports two on the driver side, one on the passenger. I have this odd nylon contraption that appears to connect them, but I have three ports on the tank and four ports on this critter, any tips on how that’s to be plumbed up would be appreciated.
Thanks. |
The 2 large vents do connect as you describe. That vent hose loops up a bit before dropping down to the tank. In the middle of that large vent hose is a tee with the strait through direction being the larger size of that vent hose while the small side of the tee is the size of the other vent lines. The larger hoses of this vent lets air out of the tank quickly when filling it.
That plastic part with 4 ports mounts up on the wiring cover above the tank. The 4 ports: 2 on the left end (from the drivers seat position) go to the tank vent barbs on left end of the tank. The 2 on the right -- one goes back to the charcoal canister inside the right rear wheel well, the other goes to the tee on the large vent hose.
Hopefully someone knows which of those small vents lines are supposed to connect to the top fittings on that vapor chamber and which ones are supposed to connect to the bottom ports.
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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Sloanstavern
Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2024 6:30 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I’m taking a break from wiring. I’m trying to get the fuel tank situated. ‘74 super
Two questions number one on the passenger side there’s a threaded port from the fill pipe, I assume it connects to that matching port on the rear of the tank.
Second question I’ve got three small diameter ports two on the driver side, one on the passenger. I have this odd nylon contraption that appears to connect them, but I have three ports on the tank and four ports on this critter, any tips on how that’s to be plumbed up would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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mikeonthebike
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 952
Location: Sacramento, CA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 6:43 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Maddel wrote: |
| mikeonthebike wrote: |
| OldSchoolVW's wrote: |
Something along this line would probably work:
https://www.amazon.com/LT-Sport-Fairing-Carrier-De...1f14d7f644
I looked at your bug in your gallery. The rack is a bit tall. Maybe you could use the one on Amazon as a base/foundation and fabricate a larger deflector to attach to it. I don't know of any place that sells one specifically for the racks that go on Bugs. |
The plastic is the easy part. I just need to devise some brackets to mount it. I could probably make it work to help when the sunroof is, too.
Or just live with the noise.
I don't know yet how much louder it will be with the sunroof open. |
Mr. Jimbug57's solution: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
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Thanks Maddel. That gives me something to go off of. |
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slayer61
Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2021
Posts: 1015
Location: CA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 2:48 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I've used compressed air to shoot them out... prolly won't do that again. Good thing my Mrs. wasn't standing there at the time! 
I've also heard of using a grease gun and using hydraulics to get them out. 
_________________
| Cusser wrote: |
... Most folks are idiots when it deals with electrical !!! |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
3/4 race cam? What's missing, one of the lobes? |
Paul
'68 Manx clone... Sears??
2276 built on AS21 case
W-125 w/ GB 1.25:1 rockers
Mahle forged pistons
CB 4340 crank
CB H beam rods
deep sump
44 HPMX
EMPI GTV 2 STG II wedge ports
CB Magna spark
1 5/8 merged collector w/ hater stinger |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31360
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 9:26 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Lost69Convertible wrote: |
| So I haven't had time to take the old cylinder apart. But I know this much: both plungers on the frozen cylinder won't slide and they won't rotate. Is there a good technique to get frozen plungers out of the cylinder body? |
If I encountered such, I'd
(1) pull out the rubber seals using a hook tool and soak the wheel cylinders in vinegar a couple of days.
(2) more likely, I'd put the wheel cylinder in a bench vise and use a short piece of wooden dowel to hammer the steel parts out. Some might use a socket slightly smaller than the wheel cylinder bore and an extension, and then hammer it.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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