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The Stupid Question Thread
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:
Well, I guess this qualifies as a stupid question.
Does anyone know if a Solex/Bocar H30/31 carb. power jet is just a large Idle jet?
From what I have read on Rob and Daves page. The power jet assists with full throttle running when the air correction jet leans out the engine.

I need to order one from ACN. But cannot find one on the site. The power jet looks like an Idle jet to my old eye's.

Anyone know what is correct?

The H30/31 power jet is the same type/style as the idle jet (people often mistakenly swap them in fact). You are correct to order the appropriate size "idle" jet.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 8:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:
67rustavenger wrote:
Well, I guess this qualifies as a stupid question.
Does anyone know if a Solex/Bocar H30/31 carb. power jet is just a large Idle jet?
From what I have read on Rob and Daves page. The power jet assists with full throttle running when the air correction jet leans out the engine.

I need to order one from ACN. But cannot find one on the site. The power jet looks like an Idle jet to my old eye's.

Anyone know what is correct?

The H30/31 power jet is the same type/style as the idle jet (people often mistakenly swap them in fact). You are correct to order the appropriate size "idle" jet.

Thank you. I suspected so. But needed needed confirmation.

All please carry on with the stupid questions. Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 7:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

On the H30/31 carburetor, there are two brass jets on the right side (right is right of car). The angled one (points slightly towards the rear of the car) is the idle jet (should be the 50). The other one (pointing straight out to the right side of the car) is the power jet (should be the 65), which feeds additional fuel at high throttle/high rpm.

Yes - I initially mixed these up on my own carb when I rebuilt it, their threads are the same, and I initially did not notice they were different sizes (stamping on the side, use a light and magnifying glass).
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Deebs
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 5:03 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How does one go about keeping the throttle at 3500 RPM while trying to hold a timing light and turn the distributor?

Thank you, I look forward to feeling dumb but grateful Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 5:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Deebs wrote:
How does one go about keeping the throttle at 3500 RPM while trying to hold a timing light and turn the distributor?

Thank you, I look forward to feeling dumb but grateful Laughing


2500 - 3000

I use my medium depth 13mm socket between the throttle arm and carb body.
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
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Deebs
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 6:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Deebs wrote:
How does one go about keeping the throttle at 3500 RPM while trying to hold a timing light and turn the distributor?

Thank you, I look forward to feeling dumb but grateful Laughing


2500 - 3000

I use my medium depth 13mm socket between the throttle arm and carb body.


Cool Thanks again Jimbo.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 6:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Deebs wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Deebs wrote:
How does one go about keeping the throttle at 3500 RPM while trying to hold a timing light and turn the distributor?

Thank you, I look forward to feeling dumb but grateful Laughing


2500 - 3000

I use my medium depth 13mm socket between the throttle arm and carb body.


Cool Thanks again Jimbo.


If you're setting your mechanical timing with the engine rev'd, be aware that many Bosch distributors don't reach full mechanical advance until 3800 RPM.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 6:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Deebs wrote:
How does one go about keeping the throttle at 3500 RPM while trying to hold a timing light and turn the distributor?

Thank you, I look forward to feeling dumb but grateful Laughing


2500 - 3000

I use my medium depth 13mm socket between the throttle arm and carb body.


If you're setting your mechanical timing with the engine rev'd, be aware that many Bosch distributors don't reach full mechanical advance until 3800 RPM.


Understood, thank you. Unfortunately mine is an old non-Bosch 009 distributor. Part Number BA009. Came on the car from PO. Bought Bosch points (01011) and condenser (02086) for it but that is about it I guess.

My intention is to aim for 30 degrees at 3000 RPM. I need to open my points a tad more first. My dwell was 51.6
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 1:27 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What's the purpose of the ports on these valve covers?

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mukluk
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 2:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Extra crank case breathing for higher displacement and/or higher revving engines. You connect the ports to a breather box with hosing.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 12:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Didn't know where to post this question so might as well post here. I'm looking at picking up a 71 super this weekend with 48k original miles. I am trying to determine how to transport it back to my home, 350 miles away. The seller is including a tow bar, but how confident should I be in the wheel bearings/car in general to flat tow all the way home? I know this is kinda a loaded question because you can't see the condition of the car, but it appears to be in great shape and the seller has said he routinely drives it across Seattle to work. The tires are good and solid, I'm just more worried about the unknown. What would you do? rent a car trailer from uhaul or flat tow the beetle home? Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

seitzcanyon wrote:
Didn't know where to post this question so might as well post here. I'm looking at picking up a 71 super this weekend with 48k original miles. I am trying to determine how to transport it back to my home, 350 miles away. The seller is including a tow bar, but how confident should I be in the wheel bearings/car in general to flat tow all the way home? I know this is kinda a loaded question because you can't see the condition of the car, but it appears to be in great shape and the seller has said he routinely drives it across Seattle to work. The tires are good and solid, I'm just more worried about the unknown. What would you do? rent a car trailer from uhaul or flat tow the beetle home? Thanks!


The safest way would be to trailer it home. If you have a portable floor jack and some tools, you could check the wheel bearings. Jack up the front end. Spin the tires. Do you hear any rumbling or feel a vibration on the bumper or fender with the tire spinning? A pitted up race or bearing, you will feel. You can then pop the dust caps and check the adjustments if they pass that test. You can do the same with the rear tires jacking one side at a time and spinning them.

Usually a road test will identify a loud bearing or bad bearing. Visually inspect the tires on the bug. If they look good, make sure they are aired up and that you have a spare. If those checks pass, I'd tow it home.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 5:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

seitzcanyon wrote:
I'm looking at picking up a 71 super this weekend. The seller is including a tow bar

Since this is the stupid question thread, I need to ask if that would be a two-piece Super Beetle tow bar, and if the one piece is already bolted to the Super Beetle.

And make sure you have the correct size ball if you decide to use his tow bar; my "standard" tow bar is old and uses a 1 7/8-inch ball, where I think newer ones might be 2-inch.
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TIME MACHINE
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

This is definitely a dumb question.

I just purchased a 1973 Beetle, I believe it's a Super Beetle. The seller (old lady) gave me the key, but it will not turn the ignition. The key fits inside the ignition, but it will not turn it. I tried jiggling the steering wheel (which is locked) but was unable to get it to turn.

She swears it is the right key. Am I missing something? I'm not aware of any buttons or switches that release a locked ignition like in some modern cars. The battery is dead in the car, does that matter?
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Try flipping the key to the other side. My key has a different cut on each side. I'm guessing at some point in the past the door locks used the other side of the key.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2018 11:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have a quandary... Shocked does any body know what the stupid question thread threads are? metric?1.25?1.5? 1.75? 1? or sae threads?British threads?55degree thread?60 degree thread? I wonder if my new threads are made in china or Indonesia? Rolling Eyes :wink:they sure fit well,i wonder if they will fade? yes it's late,no I cant sleep...too many stupid questions running around in my empty head....after all "empty" is my initials.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
my empty head....after all "empty" is my initials


Not “is”. Need to use “are”. You have more than one letter making up your name.
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GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:25 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

77 super beetle battery kill switch?
Do you think I need to get a replacement battery for my 77 or do you think I should keep my original.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:29 pm    Post subject: I'm new to VWs. Is a paper air filter better than oil bath? Reply with quote

I have a 1970 convertible, 1600 cc which I think is low mileage stock original, with no modifications. I have heard that the only thing better about paper filters is that they are easy to replace but that oil bath is way cheaper to maintain and better filtration. I believe that way cheaper is true but better filtration is total BS. I bet this question is controversial!

I worked some with trucks when I was younger (in the 1970s) when many trucks, gas and diesel, used oil baths but I watched as newer trucks almost all had BIG paper filters. I am all for staying clean myself but am way more concerned about having clean air coming into my engine. What is the right answer?


Last edited by ta2guy on Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:37 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 12:32 pm    Post subject: Re: I'm new to VWs. Is a paper air filter better than oil bath? Reply with quote

ta2guy wrote:
I have a 1970 convertible, 1600 cc which I think is stock original.

Yes, 1600cc SP was stock for 1970.


ta2guy wrote:
I have heard that the only thing better about paper filters is that they are easy to replace but that oil bath is way cheaper to maintain and better filtration. I believe that way cheaper is true but better filtration is total BS. I bet this question is controversial!

Yes, it's controversial. I don't see any reason to change from the stock oil bath air filter.
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