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The Stupid Question Thread
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 10:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So changed the gear shift bushing , after about a week the rattle came back , the coupler seem ok to me but then again i don't know a good one from a bad one , how can i tell it its bad or on its way out , Thanks
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solorogue
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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2021 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

68IHscout wrote:
So changed the gear shift bushing , after about a week the rattle came back , the coupler seem ok to me but then again i don't know a good one from a bad one , how can i tell it its bad or on its way out , Thanks


jbugs has a great video on the shifter and bushing replacement.

https://youtu.be/ttjuH03nEl8

Make sure you have the metal ring is on the shifter bushing and the bushing is still in the hanger. also check your shifter coupler bushings and connection. easy and cheap to replace with urethane bushings.
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DTT
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 7:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hello! My "stupid" question: I notice some VW Beetles of the same year have differently shaped horn "levers" on the steering wheel; some are a straight bar going between 9:00 to 3:00, and some are semi-circular. What is the basis for this difference? Thank you.
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bergfan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 8:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I've only ever seen the half circle horn "ring". I've seen a few broken ones that sound like what you described
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 8:35 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

AFAIK straight-bar is a Bus or specific-year ('72+?) thing unless the curved part broke off and the broken ends were cut/filed off.
One thing to look for I suppose, would be whether the steering-wheels you've seen with straight-bars have notches for where the curved section passed through.
Even then, so many parts can be swapped around that I've no idea offhand what was stock for those.
I have one ex-curved-bar in my parts collection, the broken spots filed flat and only notable for the lack of chrome in those spots.
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empi3
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

DTT wrote:
Hello! My "stupid" question: I notice some VW Beetles of the same year have differently shaped horn "levers" on the steering wheel; some are a straight bar going between 9:00 to 3:00, and some are semi-circular. What is the basis for this difference? Thank you.


Steering Wheel and Horn Ring Differences
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369130

This is located in the
"Late Model FAQ "Sticky's"- *Read before posting*"
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=183060

Steven
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DTT
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 12:05 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you for your responses.

Here is an example of a 69 Beetle with circular horn ring:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2473241

Here is an example of a 69 Beetle with a circular horn ring:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2477912

They both look "original" to me, but perhaps the straight one was originally circular.

Hmmmm.....
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DTT
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Sorry! My top example was supposed to be a "9:00 to 3:00" horn bar, but it does not show all photos, so try this one:

Example of straight 9 to 3 horn bar:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2477912
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

DTT wrote:
Thank you for your responses.

Here is an example of a 69 Beetle with circular horn ring:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2473241

Here is an example of a 69 Beetle with a circular horn ring:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2477912

They both look "original" to me, but perhaps the straight one was originally circular.

Hmmmm.....

The post linked earlier by empi3 has accurate information on this. Only the '64 and '65 year models used a factory-made straight horn bar with no ring, and all of those were chromed. All other years that didn't use just a button had a horn ring, chromed up through the '67 model, while '68 and newer ones were painted silver. If you look at a straight bar and it's not chromed, then it originally had a ring which has broken off. It's quite common for people to trim off the remaining stubs when the ring breaks off, thus appearing to be just a straight bar.
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DTT
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Great info. Thank you very much.
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Norcalsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:38 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

74' Super Beetle, Convertible.

I live in Florida, and my insurance/registration will dictate lower mileage per year (2500 mi)... Anyway, given I will be a deliberate/fair-weather driver (meetups and cruising), and being garaged when not in use--the top is ALWAYS down--why not?! With that said, would driving long distances with the top down effect cooling to the engine bay? Should I be careful driving longer distances given the ragtop spoils the airflow to the louvers on the engine cover? Most bugs have good airflow to the back of the engine by nature of the curve from roof to rear, whereas a convertible does not. Would a deck lid stand off be recommended? Or am I just worrying too much?
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

For as little as you say you drive it....just make sure all of the stock cooling tin, engine compartment seals and hoses, and the thermostat and flaps are in place and working properly. You'll be fine.
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
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'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
For as little as you say you drive it....just make sure all of the stock cooling tin, engine compartment seals and hoses, and the thermostat and flaps are in place and working properly. You'll be fine.


Will do--just replaced my hoses due to one of them being broken/cracked--but overall, everything is clean/sealed in the bay--I am just new to air-cooled cars, so learning through trial, error, research and questions! Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Norcalsteve wrote:
vamram wrote:
For as little as you say you drive it....just make sure all of the stock cooling tin, engine compartment seals and hoses, and the thermostat and flaps are in place and working properly. You'll be fine.


Will do--just replaced my hoses due to one of them being broken/cracked--but overall, everything is clean/sealed in the bay--I am just new to air-cooled cars, so learning through trial, error, research and questions! Wink


Keep that oil level correct too. About 2.6 quarts on a stock engine.
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Norcalsteve
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 12:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
Norcalsteve wrote:
vamram wrote:
For as little as you say you drive it....just make sure all of the stock cooling tin, engine compartment seals and hoses, and the thermostat and flaps are in place and working properly. You'll be fine.


Will do--just replaced my hoses due to one of them being broken/cracked--but overall, everything is clean/sealed in the bay--I am just new to air-cooled cars, so learning through trial, error, research and questions! Wink


Keep that oil level correct too. About 2.6 quarts on a stock engine.


Definitely. Taking it to a friend of mine on Monday to walk me through a thorough bumper to bumper inspection... have slight seepage (drip form) on the oil plate nuts which re-appear after I wipe them overnight. Hoping the prior owner didn't over torque them--will suck to have to re-stud block. But, overall oil level is right between lines on stick still (have had it for about a month now).
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2021 5:07 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Norcalsteve wrote:
74' Super Beetle, Convertible.

I live in Florida--the top is ALWAYS down--why not?! With that said, would driving long distances with the top down effect cooling to the engine bay? Should I be careful driving longer distances given the ragtop spoils the airflow to the louvers on the engine cover? Most bugs have good airflow to the back of the engine by nature of the curve from roof to rear, whereas a convertible does not. Would a deck lid stand off be recommended? Or am I just worrying too much?


All I can say is that I've had my 1971 VW Convertible since 1976. The factory engine took a turn for the worst in 2003 when an oil cover stud vibrated out one night, and Mrs. Cusser saw the oil pressure GAUGE drop down to zero AND the oil pressure warning light come on red, and she kept driving about 4 miles until it stalled out. Yes, that hurt its oil pressure once the oil heated up, but we kept driving it like 3 years, until I swapped in my then-unused 1835cc DP engine. So that's what's in there now.

I don't think one can compare an 1835cc DP engine with Weber carb in Phoenix AZ to a 1600cc DP engine in Florida, when comparing heat generated. Yes, I have an oil temperature gauge in mine, and do notice at 75mph after 10 minutes that the oil temperature is higher with top down and top up, same day. I have lid standoffs and a shroud-mounted external oil cooler on mine, but remember the AZ heat and 1835cc engine.

So I think you'd be OK at 65mph with your 1600cc engine in Florida with the engine in good, stock condition, like my own 1971 was from 1971 to 2006.

By the way, I found that original 1971 engine to have just a bad #2 main bearing; the crankshaft was merely polished and I rebuilt that engine which now powers my 1970 VW. SEE https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=664950&highlight=resurrection+1970
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 11:59 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Here's my stupid question;
Got a 74 Super and for some reason the PO removed the retaining clip for the passenger side hood spring. I've looked on Wolfsburg West and I'm pretty sure I found it but it's out of stock. What's the name of this type of clip so I can possibly head to a store and pick one up?
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 2:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm not sure if that's a standard bit of hardware or if it's specific to VWs, but another thing you can try is asking https://averysaircooled.com/ if they have an original one to sell you.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 5:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

It wouldn't be stock, but an external snap-ring could do the trick if you can find one the right size.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 11:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is there any MPG benefit to using NGK protruding tip plugs vs standard NGK non-protruding tip plugs, on a completely stock 1600db configuration - rebuilt bosch DVDA matched to Volkzbitz-rebuilt Solex 34-4? Good valve adjustment, plugs gapped at .024, plug wires have about 9k miles on them.
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!
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