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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 3:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
| I found a short thread w/ IR pic of hot generator which you responded regarding gen. clocking. Mine looks OK but that genny is hot to the touch. |
How does it feel when you spin that generator clockwise by hand after removing the belt? The generator bearings are replaceable on these; have done it twice but over 35 years ago....nowadays I intentionally run the belt a little loose on purpose to save the generator bearings on my two, and I don't overheat or lose charging.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 359
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2021 2:53 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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^^^ I haven't pulled the belt yet but it doesn't seem over tight.
The frankenbug has some issues that I am addressing as time and funds become available. PO did some sketchy repairs and I want to baseline for reliability before getting fancy.
I am searching the forums and YT for tips etc. to avoid any blunders. That proved invaluable when I got the Syncro.
The Syncro is acting up now- it wants some attention too.
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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jpsulisz
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2021
Posts: 20
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2021 10:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Stupid question: Would a bad/no alignment cause the lower strut mount on a Super to rub against a rim on a tight turn/brake scenario?
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31379
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 7:20 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| jpsulisz wrote: |
| Stupid question: Would a bad/no alignment cause the lower strut mount on a Super to rub against a rim on a tight turn/brake scenario? |
Maybe check/adjust the wheel stop bolt on each side. I had to do this when I changed wheels on my '88 Mazda truck.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7028
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 11:18 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| jpsulisz wrote: |
Stupid question: Would a bad/no alignment cause the lower strut mount on a Super to rub against a rim on a tight turn/brake scenario?
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Bad alignment shouldn't cause that, but loose wheel bearings or a bent spindle will.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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jpsulisz
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2021
Posts: 20
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| jpsulisz wrote: |
| Stupid question: Would a bad/no alignment cause the lower strut mount on a Super to rub against a rim on a tight turn/brake scenario? |
Maybe check/adjust the wheel stop bolt on each side. I had to do this when I changed wheels on my '88 Mazda truck. |
Are you referring to the idler pulley on the passenger side?
| mukluk wrote: |
| jpsulisz wrote: |
Stupid question: Would a bad/no alignment cause the lower strut mount on a Super to rub against a rim on a tight turn/brake scenario?
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Bad alignment shouldn't cause that, but loose wheel bearings or a bent spindle will. |
Bearings were tightened down a month ago along with checking for any play. Prior to rebuilding the front suspension I hadn't had any issues with this. Currently the car is at max negative camber as a setting point, so I figured a bit more positive camber would get the rim further away from the strut.
Would check for it but have been feeling pretty sick today |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7028
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 2:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| jpsulisz wrote: |
Bearings were tightened down a month ago along with checking for any play. Prior to rebuilding the front suspension I hadn't had any issues with this. Currently the car is at max negative camber as a setting point, so I figured a bit more positive camber would get the rim further away from the strut.
Would check for it but have been feeling pretty sick today |
It's been quite a while since I've messed with a Super and that was only the early three bolt strut version, but I don't recall the camber adjustment being located at the strut. IIRC, camber is adjusted by moving the track arms inward or outward via eccentric bolts -- this only pushes the strut and wheel assembly in or out at the bottom, it shouldn't change the angle relation between the strut centerline and that of the spindle. With the wheel being angled inward toward the top and thus allowing the rim to contact the lower spring seat of the strut, to me it would only make sense that either a bent spindle or loose bearings would allow this to happen.
Maybe this is different with the later two bolt strut assembly and there is some other camber adjustment available, I don't know for certain. To be honest, I'm not sure which version of strut we're working with here since your picture cuts off the lower end of the strut where it attaches to the spindle.
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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jpsulisz
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2021
Posts: 20
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 3:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| mukluk wrote: |
| jpsulisz wrote: |
Bearings were tightened down a month ago along with checking for any play. Prior to rebuilding the front suspension I hadn't had any issues with this. Currently the car is at max negative camber as a setting point, so I figured a bit more positive camber would get the rim further away from the strut.
Would check for it but have been feeling pretty sick today |
It's been quite a while since I've messed with a Super and that was only the early three bolt strut version, but I don't recall the camber adjustment being located at the strut. IIRC, camber is adjusted by moving the track arms inward or outward via eccentric bolts -- this only pushes the strut and wheel assembly in or out at the bottom, it shouldn't change the angle relation between the strut centerline and that of the spindle. With the wheel being angled inward toward the top and thus allowing the rim to contact the lower spring seat of the strut, to me it would only make sense that either a bent spindle or loose bearings would allow this to happen.
Maybe this is different with the later two bolt strut assembly and there is some other camber adjustment available, I don't know for certain. To be honest, I'm not sure which version of strut we're working with here since your picture cuts off the lower end of the strut where it attaches to the spindle. |
You are correct, the only adjustment is via the bolt toward the center of the car. My bug is a 71 so it is the same 3 bolt strut that you're familiar with.
I guess I should ask how much space should be between the strut and the rim? I can't even get my pinkie between either one on either side of the car.
I've only had the car for a few months and when it developed a shimmy I decided to just tear it down without much notice of spacing of the original parts. I definitely didn't have the issue of either side touching the strut prior to my rebuild - will definitely check again when I am feeling better tomorrow.
Edit:
Maybe it's the ball joints? I saw a thread where someone mentioned they needed to grind theirs down a tad? I found a photo and can confirm they are alarmingly close to the wheel weights that stick out.
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vamram 
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2021 11:04 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I've always had to grind down the tip of the ball joint bolt on my '72-73 Supers with the 3-bolt strut. But mine are also lowered 1-1.5" not sure if that's why.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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jpsulisz
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2021
Posts: 20
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Had my alignment done in hopes to fix the issue but the technician could not set my camber as he told me that he believes the eccentric bolts are damaged (they seemed fine to me at the time of install)
I'll probably put the gopro underneath again to double-check to see what it is hitting.
Unfortunately, the VW dealer I brought it to told me if I fixed the eccentric bolts by replacing them I'll have to pay for another alignment. So I can't make that happen
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Tension
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2021
Posts: 1
Location: Rhode Island
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| Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2021 7:27 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Undercoating.
I have come across a super clean bug but the underbody is almost bare. Should I go for paint or try an undercoat?
I am not doing a frame off restoration. $$$ are short.
p.s. stupid questions are often just the ones that were answered before but were forgotten. |
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Lost69Convertible
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2020
Posts: 447
Location: Rhode Island
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| Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2021 8:49 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tension wrote: |
| Should I go for paint or try an undercoat? |
My Beetle has thick rubberized undercoating. The coating has become brittle over time. It's lifting off the surface in many places and trapping water, dirt, and salt. This is the downside of rubberized coatings in my opinion. I'm in the process of scraping and stripping the undercoat off my Bug.
I think the choice of what to do underneath depends a lot on where you live. Rhode Island is in the rust belt with salt and terribly corrosive sticky brine solution on the roads. Even if you don't plan to drive your Beetle in the Winter, driveways and garage floors get coated with salt carried in by the vehicle you are driving.
I live in Rhode Island also. My choice is to coat the steel with a primer and paint known for long term adhesion. Then I spray seams, cavities, and rust prone areas with FLUID FILM. This was developed for the US Navy in WW2. It remains a high viscosity fluid and it's mostly lanolin based. Fluid Film migrates into seams to displace oxygen. This product has consistently rated number one when tested on vehicles driven all Winter on salty roads.
_________________
1956 Beetle Ragtop: My Father's car
1969 Beetle Convertible: My first car. I loved it, I lost it, and I never got over it.
1979 Super Beetle Convertible |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 359
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:50 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Tension wrote: |
| Should I go for paint or try an undercoat? |
Opinions will vary as to best methods and product types. (The FLUID FILM suggestion above is well-received.)
Cost and ease of application, and local road conditions will also come into play.
In my area road salt and winter conditions are seldom encountered, and a complete pan/chassis restoration is not in the cards.
My frankenbug pans and heater channels are intact with no perforations. (I got lucky.) But the factory undercoat is peeling in some places.
While the Bug is on the lift for other repairs I plan to remove the flaking u'coat and apply RustOleum Rust Restorer to the exposed surfaces.
I will then cover those areas with spray-bomb undercoating. Also will reapply it to inner fenders, wheelhouses etc. taking care to avoid bolts/fasteners, wires, bushings, grommets, cables, levers, susp and exhaust components. (Those will be treated with other products.)
Rust never sleeps. But this should keep it drowsy...
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 359
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Moar questions |
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*What's the difference between a Beetle and a Bug? Are the terms interchangeable?
Is it pronounced "Samba" or "Somba"?
What drawbacks to using an aftermarket air cleaner in place of a malfunctioning/janky factory (paper filter) type?
I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try a simpler type without vacuum hoses, flaps etc. and heated intake?
My '69 frankenbug* has a dual port AK motor, German Solex 34 PICT 3, and the later plastic filter housing. Warm air hose is present. Some vac. ports on the filter hsg are plugged. Heat risers appear to be functioning- they are hot to the touch.
Any advice?
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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BCE56
Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013
Posts: 359
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Moar questions |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| BCE56 wrote: |
*What's the difference between a Beetle and a Bug? Are the terms interchangeable?
Is it pronounced "Samba" or "Somba"?
Any advice? |
Get a girl friend ! |
Well, the current GF is still in pretty good shape.
Kinda hate to break in a new one but I guess I could give it a try.
Also, not sure that would answer air filter question.
_________________
=BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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mukluk
Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012
Posts: 7028
Location: Clyde, TX
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| Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 5:54 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Moar questions |
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| BCE56 wrote: |
*What's the difference between a Beetle and a Bug? Are the terms interchangeable?
Is it pronounced "Samba" or "Somba"?
What drawbacks to using an aftermarket air cleaner in place of a malfunctioning/janky factory (paper filter) type?
I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try a simpler type without vacuum hoses, flaps etc. and heated intake?
My '69 frankenbug* has a dual port AK motor, German Solex 34 PICT 3, and the later plastic filter housing. Warm air hose is present. Some vac. ports on the filter hsg are plugged. Heat risers appear to be functioning- they are hot to the touch.
Any advice? |
Beetle, Bug... doesn't make much difference as most people use them interchangeably. In my mind they're all Bugs, whereas calling one a Beetle helps differentiate it from a Super Beetle.
It's pronounced the same as the type of music: first a is the same as in "father", the second a like the o in "of" (click here). 
Most aftermarket air filters are too short (not enough standoff for the carburetor), lack provision for carb preheat (important for good driveability with a single carb), tend to filter less particulates (leads to decreased engine life), or lack fittings for the crankcase vent and evaporative emissions hoses (leads to dirty/oily engine bay and increased gasoline fumes around the car). A complete stock air cleaner (oil bath or plastic w/paper filter) with all hoses attached really is the best setup when running a stock single carb.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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bergfan
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2007
Posts: 151
Location: NewZealand
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| Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2021 7:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Moar questions |
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| mukluk wrote: |
| BCE56 wrote: |
*What's the difference between a Beetle and a Bug? Are the terms interchangeable?
Is it pronounced "Samba" or "Somba"?
What drawbacks to using an aftermarket air cleaner in place of a malfunctioning/janky factory (paper filter) type?
I wonder if it would be worthwhile to try a simpler type without vacuum hoses, flaps etc. and heated intake?
My '69 frankenbug* has a dual port AK motor, German Solex 34 PICT 3, and the later plastic filter housing. Warm air hose is present. Some vac. ports on the filter hsg are plugged. Heat risers appear to be functioning- they are hot to the touch.
Any advice? |
Beetle, Bug... doesn't make much difference as most people use them interchangeably. In my mind they're all Bugs, whereas calling one a Beetle helps differentiate it from a Super Beetle.
It's pronounced the same as the type of music: first a is the same as in "father", the second a like the o in "of" (click here).
Most aftermarket air filters are too short (not enough standoff for the carburetor), lack provision for carb preheat (important for good driveability with a single carb), tend to filter less particulates (leads to decreased engine life), or lack fittings for the crankcase vent and evaporative emissions hoses (leads to dirty/oily engine bay and increased gasoline fumes around the car). A complete stock air cleaner (oil bath or plastic w/paper filter) with all hoses attached really is the best setup when running a stock single carb. |
Agreed, VW didn't spend millions of dollars to develop an excellent intake system for nothing. |
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TechionDigit
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2021
Posts: 74
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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| Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2021 8:10 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Probably gonna get shunned for not knowing how to use the search filter but I can't find anything on it besides people telling other people to do the trick. 
So here's my stupid question, how does one do The Tennis Ball Trick? How do I slice the ball? Where is it placed? Thanks in advance.
_________________
1974 Texas Yellow Super Beetle
2004 Passat 1.8T Wagon
1994 Sedan Firebeetle |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2021 9:20 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc...=titleonly
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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TechionDigit
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2021
Posts: 74
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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| Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2021 8:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Cracked open my trunk yesterday after work to finally tinker with my fresh air fan, it's a curved windshield style. The motor spins in both speeds but the blades and the actual motor don't connect, motor just spins freely and blade sits idle.
How are these supposed to connect? I assume there used to be splines on mating sides but fingers crossed I'm missing a clip or something and I don't need to buy a new motor and blade.
_________________
1974 Texas Yellow Super Beetle
2004 Passat 1.8T Wagon
1994 Sedan Firebeetle |
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