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The Stupid Question Thread
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andrewschumi
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2021 12:53 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi, my AB engine’s intake manifold was crack and my Bosch generator was dead, so I decided to strip my engine to the long block. That revealed me quite a lot of crude and thick dust layers everywhere.

As I don’t want to tear it down completely (no €€€ for the surprises that I will come by) is it a good idea

1) to waterblast it with a home pressure machine(cold water)?
2) Should I spray degreaser on it from the previous night?
3) inside the intakes there are some carbon deposits, how can I clean them? Scratching with a small screwdriver, Or a soft brush? Should I use a vacuum cleaner to suck the products before they get inside the cylinder?

From up the pictures you can see a lot of crude around the cylinder 1 base where it meets the engine case. If I clean it will I open a pandora box of leaks?


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Ulu
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 8:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Well I bought a VW style balljoint seperator, and I expect to find out soon myownself.

So far at least 6 people have told me, "Don't lower the car! Buy dropped spindles!" They don't seem to understand what "suspension topped out" means.

I'm only lowering it back to normal ride height.
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 6:42 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

andrewschumi wrote:

As I don’t want to tear it down completely (no €€€ for the surprises that I will come by) is it a good idea

1) to waterblast it with a home pressure machine(cold water)?
2) Should I spray degreaser on it from the previous night?
3) inside the intakes there are some carbon deposits, how can I clean them? Scratching with a small screwdriver, Or a soft brush? Should I use a vacuum cleaner to suck the products before they get inside the cylinder?



Others may disagree but I would plug every orifice around the block, remove the plugs and plug those holes with rags/ whatever, then get a can of oven cleaner and spray all over everything. Let it soak for a bit (maybe a couple hours) use a mid scouring brush to scrub hard to get to places or where there is a lot of buildup, then spray it all off with the pressure washer.
Then before starting it back up pull the drain plug make sure anything that got in the block has drained out then fill with fresh oil. Good to go!
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sb001
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Has anyone every tried ducting fresh air through the rear fenders some way to the cylinder heads to help with cooling? Not sure how this would be done, other than cutting actual slats in the sheet metal and using some kind of flex tubing. May not be possible- which is why I posted this in the "stupid questions" thread.
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Weezle
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:04 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

heres my stoopid question. my alternator light wont go off. and my battery discharges while the engine is running. Its a new build and I have a new wiring harness as well but I noticed something: theres no ground wire on the body of the alternator. I see the screw but the harness didn't include a ground. Is that ground needed to extinguish the dash light and charge? Isn't the alternator grounded anyways by the alternator stand and strap? Thanks!

I checked already that the blue wiring running up to the dash is not shorted to ground. Like I said, new build, new alternator but I may have blown out a diode or something while setting everything up etc .etc. thanks.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
Has anyone every tried ducting fresh air through the rear fenders some way to the cylinder heads to help with cooling? Not sure how this would be done, other than cutting actual slats in the sheet metal and using some kind of flex tubing. May not be possible- which is why I posted this in the "stupid questions" thread.


Your best bet would be to scoop more air directed into the fan shroud. That thing, along with the rest of the tins, will do a far better job of directing the air where it needs to be than we could.

Ram air for VWs!
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

DurocShark wrote:
sb001 wrote:
Has anyone every tried ducting fresh air through the rear fenders some way to the cylinder heads to help with cooling? Not sure how this would be done, other than cutting actual slats in the sheet metal and using some kind of flex tubing. May not be possible- which is why I posted this in the "stupid questions" thread.


Your best bet would be to scoop more air directed into the fan shroud. That thing, along with the rest of the tins, will do a far better job of directing the air where it needs to be than we could.

Ram air for VWs!

EMPI GTV scoops
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Weezle wrote:
heres my stoopid question. my alternator light wont go off. and my battery discharges while the engine is running. Its a new build and I have a new wiring harness as well but I noticed something: theres no ground wire on the body of the alternator. I see the screw but the harness didn't include a ground. Is that ground needed to extinguish the dash light and charge? Isn't the alternator grounded anyways by the alternator stand and strap? Thanks!


If mine (I have generators) I would run a new/separate ground wire from your alternator body to a good ground.

Yes, the charge light bulb is important to have an alternator charge. Once you add your ground wire, a good test of your charging system is to check voltage across the battery terminals with engine running lie 2500 rpm: the voltage reading should then be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

NEVER REMOVE A BATTERY CABLE WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING ON AN ALTERNATOR-EQUIPPED VEHICLE.
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Weezle
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
Weezle wrote:
heres my stoopid question. my alternator light wont go off. and my battery discharges while the engine is running. Its a new build and I have a new wiring harness as well but I noticed something: theres no ground wire on the body of the alternator. I see the screw but the harness didn't include a ground. Is that ground needed to extinguish the dash light and charge? Isn't the alternator grounded anyways by the alternator stand and strap? Thanks!


If mine (I have generators) I would run a new/separate ground wire from your alternator body to a good ground.

Yes, the charge light bulb is important to have an alternator charge. Once you add your ground wire, a good test of your charging system is to check voltage across the battery terminals with engine running lie 2500 rpm: the voltage reading should then be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

NEVER REMOVE A BATTERY CABLE WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING ON AN ALTERNATOR-EQUIPPED VEHICLE.



thanks for that. will try the auxiliary ground wire to the body and test the voltage. and yup disconnecting battery is a no no for the alternator diodes. follow up later.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight=
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Weezle
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Well the bad news is 12.9v with or without the motor running. Hard to understand how a new alternator could be dead already 😢
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 2:18 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

New Bosch, or new Chinese reproduction? Lots of the reproduction ones are trash out of the box.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 5:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:

EMPI GTV scoops
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Hmmm. That is pretty interesting. aMakes sense to do it that way
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
Glenn wrote:

EMPI GTV scoops
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Hmmm. That is pretty interesting. aMakes sense to do it that way


You have to cut a hole in the c-pillar behind that. How do you guide the air into the engine compartment? Do you also seal off the inside to keep the air and noise out of the passenger compartment?
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Lingwendil wrote:
New Bosch, or new Chinese reproduction? Lots of the reproduction ones are trash out of the box.


its not Bosch because its 90 amp. I have A/C, oil cooler fan, LED headlights and a stereo.

I've tried both the standard 1.2watt beetle idiot light bulb and the star LED one with the "exciter" ie: a bulb incased in plastic run in parallel Wink and none of these go out or let the battery charge. I see that porsche idiot light bulbs are 2w so I will try one of those. The engine builder said on the dyno the car had to be revved to get the alternators ass working so its persnickety, but when I rev the car the light stays lit.

then there is this: the factory harness had that large 4 lug connector under the rear seat. There the large red/white stripe wire from the B+ alternator lug connected to the same color wire going up to fuse 9 and ALSO to a lead that went directly to the battery. BUT the replacement harness didn't provide for that junction under the seat. instead that red/white stripe goes all the way to the fuse block and theres a separate lead from the alternatory B+ to the starter main (30) lug and then the battery is connected to that main lug also. I don't think this should affect the workings of the circuit any but what do I know?

Lastly, I had this crazy notion - I noticed that in my car, a 79 there is that weird odometer thingy in the trunk which is essentially an electrical switch that triggers every 30,000 miles and lights the EGR dash light telling you to change that filter. The way VW has this wired it also goes to the D+ lead at the alternator that the generator idiot light uses. That way both bulbs are tested at startup. Now I've removed that trunk mounted odometer already but.....was I careful to make sure none of those leads are touching body. ie: ground? Because that would allow the generator light to stay lit always. But I don't know if that would kill the charging circuit. too late to play with the car now but I'll answer that question tomorrow. I do believe the blue wire from alternator showed negative continuity to ground already however so that whole theory may be BS.....yeh the alternator is trashed Evil or Very Mad
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 3:34 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
Has anyone every tried ducting fresh air through the rear fenders some way to the cylinder heads to help with cooling? Not sure how this would be done, other than cutting actual slats in the sheet metal and using some kind of flex tubing. May not be possible- which is why I posted this in the "stupid questions" thread.


Check out Floatingvws design for air scoops.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 6:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

vamram wrote:


You have to cut a hole in the c-pillar behind that. How do you guide the air into the engine compartment? Do you also seal off the inside to keep the air and noise out of the passenger compartment?


Well to be fair, most of the 71-later beetles with the crescent vents already have holes in the C pillars Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2021 9:20 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

sb001 wrote:
Has anyone every tried ducting fresh air through the rear fenders some way to the cylinder heads to help with cooling? Not sure how this would be done, other than cutting actual slats in the sheet metal and using some kind of flex tubing. May not be possible- which is why I posted this in the "stupid questions" thread.

Off topic may be plus it's for Type 4 heads: Klaus Rückseitenkühlung

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 12:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

For my 1973 Super Beetle...
Do I have the correct jack or the correct bag it's supposed to go into?

Seems like one of them is wrong?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 12:36 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Jack is right, bag is wrong.

Note about that jack - they're notorious for causing the jack mount section to "fold" your heather channel and side panel at that mount point if you lift the car just enough...better keep that for originality and get a decent scissors jack for real world usage.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=605114&highlight=jack+mount+bent
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2021 12:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

stagewex wrote:
For my 1973 Super Beetle...
Do I have the correct jack or the correct bag it's supposed to go into?

Jack is stored under the rear seat, no need for a bag...

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