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The Stupid Question Thread
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78BusGA
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2022 11:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I am wondering who might be the more reliable suppliers of better quality rebuilt or new heater cores for a '74 Super.

Thanks.
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My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 30, 2022 11:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

78BusGA wrote:
I am wondering who might be the more reliable suppliers of better quality rebuilt or new heater cores for a '74 Super.

Thanks.


Do you mean, heater-boxes?
The consensus seems to be the heavier-duty Dansk for new and the classifieds here on the site for functional used units.
Threads that I found via search: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200

As for rebuilt, seems like there was a place that did powder-coating or ceramic-coating for heater-boxes but I can't find any reference/ads for them after a few searches.

Here's some threads on restoring them yourself: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
And a couple on powdercoating VS ceramic or high-temp paint: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200

Hope that helps, have fun! Cool
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alex857
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi,
if you want heat go with original ones and not the Dansk:

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andrewschumi
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi, I know that AB 1300cc TP motor is unfamiliar too many of you, but I’ll give it a try to seek for answers. recently I did a leakdown test and found out that all cylinder were leaking from the crankcase, not too much hissing sound though, but #2, #3 were leaking by the exhaust, #3 quite a lot hissing sound. The measurements were 10%, 14%, 20%, 12%, for 1,2,3,4 respectively, though I think my measuring tool is lacking accuracy (maybe up to 5%).

I took out the 3,4 head it seems that valves are not seated completely, especially exhaust of #3.
Cylinder #3
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Cylinder #4
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So my questions are:
1) the reason of not seated valves could be carbon deposit, tired spring or both?
2) why valves have different color from the rest of the chamber?
3) Should there be more deposit as the car was sitting for 4 years, though it did some 2k miles last months.

Thanks
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 8:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

andrewschumi wrote:

So my questions are:
1) the reason of not seated valves could be carbon deposit, tired spring or both?
2) why valves have different color from the rest of the chamber?
3) Should there be more deposit as the car was sitting for 4 years, though it did some 2k miles last months.
Thanks


1: I'd guess carbon, or possibly rust.
2: They get hotter than the rest, that's why.
3: What kind of deposits? I'd expect most things would be cleaned out by that much driving.
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78BusGA
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 12:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

How reliable would the braising process for welding and old original key head onto a new key shaft? And of course the RE-chroming again too.
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My '74 Super 1303 thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764902&start=60

My '78 Kombi Bus thread - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769385&highlight=

'72 Superbeetle (retired), '78 Bus Kombi 2.0FI, '74 1303 Superbeetle
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 11:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

78BusGA wrote:
How reliable would the braising process for welding and old original key head onto a new key shaft? And of course the RE-chroming again too.


Hmmm...I'm thinking....

If your aim is to provide an aftermarket key profile with an OG type head: it might work.
But I doubt the junction would resist twisting forces very well.

A brazed lap joint would be stronger.
Better yet, have it welded. (Worry about plating afterwards.)
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NachoCar
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2022 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Can timing, with strobe gun, be set on a COLD engine?

It is stated quite often carb tuing must be done on a warm engine.

Read several threads where it is stated that a DVDA can be set with all hoses connected to 28 degrees btdc at 3500 RPM. This is my plan....sound ok?
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mukluk
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2022 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NachoCar wrote:
Can timing, with strobe gun, be set on a COLD engine?

Yes, you can set the timing with the engine cold.

NachoCar wrote:
Read several threads where it is stated that a DVDA can be set with all hoses connected to 28 degrees btdc at 3500 RPM. This is my plan....sound ok?

Nope. If you want to set the full in timing to 28-32° BTDC @3500rpm on a DVDA or SVDA, it should be done using the mechanical advance only with the vacuum lines disconnected and capped.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2022 10:57 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Any advice for blacking the trim molding of the outside window scrapers on my '69 Standard Frankenbug?

I understand the molding is necessary to achieve proper fit.
I am considering self-etching spray bomb after bead blasting the trim.

PS: Turns out it is possible to swap lock cylinders between old and new (black) door handles, thus retaining a single key that matches OG ignition lock.

You're welcome!
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2022 2:28 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I purchased "German" outside window scrapers from WCM yesterday.
The outer trim molding is riveted to the lower rubber seal, and it attaches the scraper assy to the outer door shell w/ metal clips.
I tested Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black on another piece of body trim. Poor results as the new trim is apparently clear anodized.
I guess the trim could be separated from the rubber, stripped, black anodized, and then reattached w/ new rivets.
Maybe. Distortion could be an issue I'd rather not risk.
Anodize provides a good surface prep for paint.

I plan to have all the aluminum body moldings black anodized; chromed steel parts will be stripped and powder coated.

Open to suggestions.
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2type2
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Is there a "hollow wall anchor"( like Molly bolts for drywall), that it is made for use on sheet metall? Trying to avoid using self-tapping screws alone as they can strip out.
Looking for something that will allow for a machine -thread opening but have supported backing, can only be installed from exterior surfaces through drilled hole. Thanks for suggestions.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 8:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

2type2 wrote:
Is there a "hollow wall anchor"( like Molly bolts for drywall), that it is made for use on sheet metall? Trying to avoid using self-tapping screws alone as they can strip out.
Looking for something that will allow for a machine -thread opening but have supported backing, can only be installed from exterior surfaces through drilled hole. Thanks for suggestions.

It sounds like you are looking for a "rivnut." They are readily available in inch and metric sizes.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 11:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Rivnut it is, thank you!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does anyone have experience running a generator in place of an alternator on stock bug fuel injection?

Thanks!
Robbie
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:13 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

First time diving into engine


crankshaft is out of case.

Taking thigs apart is normally so much easier then assembling them....

How do you seperate the main bearings? googling has gotten me no where.

Don't want to damage the crank.......

Thanks
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NJ John
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

If you mean the pulley end of the crank? The gears have to be pressed off. With a press or puller tool.
The other end, the flywheel has to be removed.
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NachoCar
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NJ John wrote:
If you mean the pulley end of the crank? The gears have to be pressed off. With a press or puller tool.
The other end, the flywheel has to be removed.


Both ends and the middle.

I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis.....
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NachoCar wrote:

Both ends and the middle.
I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis.....


Only one of the bearings is split, the others have to slide off after removing gears and/or flywheel, as NJ John said.
See here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5133911#5133911
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 6:33 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

VeeDubWolf wrote:
NachoCar wrote:

Both ends and the middle.
I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis.....


Only one of the bearings is split, the others have to slide off after removing gears and/or flywheel, as NJ John said.
See here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5133911#5133911



Great Thread!!! Thank you.

he didn't however get into splitting the one bearing. Rubber mallet? pick??
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