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78BusGA Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2017 Posts: 315 Location: Buford, Georgia
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2022 11:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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78BusGA wrote: |
I am wondering who might be the more reliable suppliers of better quality rebuilt or new heater cores for a '74 Super.
Thanks. |
Do you mean, heater-boxes?
The consensus seems to be the heavier-duty Dansk for new and the classifieds here on the site for functional used units.
Threads that I found via search: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
As for rebuilt, seems like there was a place that did powder-coating or ceramic-coating for heater-boxes but I can't find any reference/ads for them after a few searches.
Here's some threads on restoring them yourself: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
And a couple on powdercoating VS ceramic or high-temp paint: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc..._chars=200
Hope that helps, have fun! _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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alex857 Samba Member
Joined: December 26, 2010 Posts: 714 Location: Stuttgart/Germany
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Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2022 12:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi,
if you want heat go with original ones and not the Dansk:
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andrewschumi Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Cyprus
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 12:01 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi, I know that AB 1300cc TP motor is unfamiliar too many of you, but I’ll give it a try to seek for answers. recently I did a leakdown test and found out that all cylinder were leaking from the crankcase, not too much hissing sound though, but #2, #3 were leaking by the exhaust, #3 quite a lot hissing sound. The measurements were 10%, 14%, 20%, 12%, for 1,2,3,4 respectively, though I think my measuring tool is lacking accuracy (maybe up to 5%).
I took out the 3,4 head it seems that valves are not seated completely, especially exhaust of #3.
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
So my questions are:
1) the reason of not seated valves could be carbon deposit, tired spring or both?
2) why valves have different color from the rest of the chamber?
3) Should there be more deposit as the car was sitting for 4 years, though it did some 2k miles last months.
Thanks |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 8:09 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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andrewschumi wrote: |
So my questions are:
1) the reason of not seated valves could be carbon deposit, tired spring or both?
2) why valves have different color from the rest of the chamber?
3) Should there be more deposit as the car was sitting for 4 years, though it did some 2k miles last months.
Thanks |
1: I'd guess carbon, or possibly rust.
2: They get hotter than the rest, that's why.
3: What kind of deposits? I'd expect most things would be cleaned out by that much driving. _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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78BusGA Samba Member
Joined: February 01, 2017 Posts: 315 Location: Buford, Georgia
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BCE56 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2022 11:36 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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78BusGA wrote: |
How reliable would the braising process for welding and old original key head onto a new key shaft? And of course the RE-chroming again too. |
Hmmm...I'm thinking....
If your aim is to provide an aftermarket key profile with an OG type head: it might work.
But I doubt the junction would resist twisting forces very well.
A brazed lap joint would be stronger.
Better yet, have it welded. (Worry about plating afterwards.) _________________ =BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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NachoCar Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013 Posts: 323 Location: Ms
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2022 12:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Can timing, with strobe gun, be set on a COLD engine?
It is stated quite often carb tuing must be done on a warm engine.
Read several threads where it is stated that a DVDA can be set with all hoses connected to 28 degrees btdc at 3500 RPM. This is my plan....sound ok? |
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mukluk Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2012 Posts: 7028 Location: Clyde, TX
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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2022 5:16 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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NachoCar wrote: |
Can timing, with strobe gun, be set on a COLD engine? |
Yes, you can set the timing with the engine cold.
NachoCar wrote: |
Read several threads where it is stated that a DVDA can be set with all hoses connected to 28 degrees btdc at 3500 RPM. This is my plan....sound ok? |
Nope. If you want to set the full in timing to 28-32° BTDC @3500rpm on a DVDA or SVDA, it should be done using the mechanical advance only with the vacuum lines disconnected and capped. _________________ 1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga" |
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BCE56 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2022 10:57 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Any advice for blacking the trim molding of the outside window scrapers on my '69 Standard Frankenbug?
I understand the molding is necessary to achieve proper fit.
I am considering self-etching spray bomb after bead blasting the trim.
PS: Turns out it is possible to swap lock cylinders between old and new (black) door handles, thus retaining a single key that matches OG ignition lock.
You're welcome! _________________ =BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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BCE56 Samba Member
Joined: July 16, 2013 Posts: 359 Location: So Cal
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Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2022 2:28 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I purchased "German" outside window scrapers from WCM yesterday.
The outer trim molding is riveted to the lower rubber seal, and it attaches the scraper assy to the outer door shell w/ metal clips.
I tested Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black on another piece of body trim. Poor results as the new trim is apparently clear anodized.
I guess the trim could be separated from the rubber, stripped, black anodized, and then reattached w/ new rivets.
Maybe. Distortion could be an issue I'd rather not risk.
Anodize provides a good surface prep for paint.
I plan to have all the aluminum body moldings black anodized; chromed steel parts will be stripped and powder coated.
Open to suggestions. _________________ =BCE56=
'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion
Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!" |
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2type2 Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2002 Posts: 978 Location: SW Colorado
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Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 7:31 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Is there a "hollow wall anchor"( like Molly bolts for drywall), that it is made for use on sheet metall? Trying to avoid using self-tapping screws alone as they can strip out.
Looking for something that will allow for a machine -thread opening but have supported backing, can only be installed from exterior surfaces through drilled hole. Thanks for suggestions. _________________ "A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness" |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 8:15 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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2type2 wrote: |
Is there a "hollow wall anchor"( like Molly bolts for drywall), that it is made for use on sheet metall? Trying to avoid using self-tapping screws alone as they can strip out.
Looking for something that will allow for a machine -thread opening but have supported backing, can only be installed from exterior surfaces through drilled hole. Thanks for suggestions. |
It sounds like you are looking for a "rivnut." They are readily available in inch and metric sizes. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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2type2 Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2002 Posts: 978 Location: SW Colorado
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Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2022 11:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Rivnut it is, thank you! _________________ "A life of peace and happiness depends on your own gratefulness" |
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12722 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2022 7:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Does anyone have experience running a generator in place of an alternator on stock bug fuel injection?
Thanks!
Robbie _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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NachoCar Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013 Posts: 323 Location: Ms
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:13 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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First time diving into engine
crankshaft is out of case.
Taking thigs apart is normally so much easier then assembling them....
How do you seperate the main bearings? googling has gotten me no where.
Don't want to damage the crank.......
Thanks |
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NJ John Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2007 Posts: 2223 Location: HdG, MD & NJ
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:34 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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If you mean the pulley end of the crank? The gears have to be pressed off. With a press or puller tool.
The other end, the flywheel has to be removed. _________________ 1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage |
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NachoCar Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013 Posts: 323 Location: Ms
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 1:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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NJ John wrote: |
If you mean the pulley end of the crank? The gears have to be pressed off. With a press or puller tool.
The other end, the flywheel has to be removed. |
Both ends and the middle.
I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis..... |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2022 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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NachoCar wrote: |
Both ends and the middle.
I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis..... |
Only one of the bearings is split, the others have to slide off after removing gears and/or flywheel, as NJ John said.
See here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5133911#5133911 _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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NachoCar Samba Member
Joined: June 17, 2013 Posts: 323 Location: Ms
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Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2022 6:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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VeeDubWolf wrote: |
NachoCar wrote: |
Both ends and the middle.
I'm probably best off to hope the machins shop can do it. Or forum member from Memphis..... |
Only one of the bearings is split, the others have to slide off after removing gears and/or flywheel, as NJ John said.
See here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5133911#5133911 |
Great Thread!!! Thank you.
he didn't however get into splitting the one bearing. Rubber mallet? pick?? |
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