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The Stupid Question Thread
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NachoCar
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2023 1:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I need:

case align bored and crankshaft ground to match

Is there a service or term for such service of installing main bearings and torqueing to spec in an attempt to ensure machine work is correct?

Know what I mean?
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NachoCar
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2023 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I'm wearing this thread out....

can you bolt a stock camshaft gear to an Engle crankshaft?

Thank you.
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NJ John
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2023 11:00 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have a couple.

1. I know intuitively and from having been told and read it endless times that "lugging" the engine is bad. But what exactly does lugging it do, mechanically speaking...???

2. I just installed a Bocar 34-3 from my stash, kitted, runs great, responsive to tuning. However, it starts hard regardless of the outside temps. Not horribly so, but I'm used to the car starting on the first spark of the ignition w/the carb it replaced (a different story for a different thread). One observation is that the Bocar requires about 4.5 turns out of the volume screw to achieve a steady idle speed. Could the hard start be due to the volume screw's passage having been damaged by overtightening so that fuel trickles by while sitting...?

Thanks!

V
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2023 8:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

With regard to lugging the engine ...

Running an air cooled engine at low rpms while under load reduces the air flow causing the engine to run hotter. Likewise, oil pressure would drop with lower rpms ... not a good thing for any engine (hence the red oil pressure warning light). It seems that excessive heat and a lack of lubrication can make plenty of bad things happen.
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Root_Werks
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2023 2:56 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Does the Bocar 34-3 have a accel pump? Couple of pumps when cold should do the trick.

Or like you said, is there fuel leaking by almost flooding the engine? Does the Bocar 34-3 have a fuel cut off? That might be bad?
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 3:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So I've been redoing the front end on my 69 beetle convertible, and I took the ball joints in to my local shop to press. When I got them back, he said one of them spun on the way in, so it is a little more than an 1/8 of an inch off the mark. He said if I got a new one he'd press it in for free, but that it should not matter. I guess the question I have for you is, does it matter if the ball joint is a bit off the mark, or will it still do its job?
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2023 4:21 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

1969vertbug wrote:
So I've been redoing the front end on my 69 beetle convertible, and I took the ball joints in to my local shop to press. When I got them back, he said one of them spun on the way in, so it is a little more than an 1/8 of an inch off the mark. He said if I got a new one he'd press it in for free, but that it should not matter. I guess the question I have for you is, does it matter if the ball joint is a bit off the mark, or will it still do its job?

Was this a new BJ that the shop incorrectly pressed in? Or just the old one after some clean up?

Either way, if it was new, the shop should replace it, at no charge to you.
If it was an old one, maybe you could share the cost of the replacement with the shop.
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2023 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:

Either way, if it was new, the shop should replace it, at no charge to you.
If it was an old one, maybe you could share the cost of the replacement with the shop.


You're probably right. He did offer to cover the labor, and he's been really good to me over 20 years, so I'm not going to fight over $30.

Second stupid question of the week:

If you're in Canada, anyone know where I can get a one foot length of 5/8 or 15mm fuel hose (1969 beetle vent hose from tank to T fitting?

I seem to only be able to find 10-25ft lengths, and that seems like a lot of hose to waste for such a short length.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2023 9:25 am    Post subject: Fresh air fan access Reply with quote

I need to access my fresh air fan (sounds like a gerbil in a wheel) the cover under the hood seems to be glued as well as screwed in. Is this standard procedure or did I have an anal PO?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2023 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The goop they used to close it from factory is super sticky. You need some muscle and leverage to remove it.
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 2:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I got a new 3/4 empi sway bar from cip1.ca for my beetle convertible. Do I need to paint it before I install it or is it supposed to/can it go in raw?
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 2:55 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

1969vertbug wrote:
I got a new 3/4 empi sway bar from cip1.ca for my beetle convertible. Do I need to paint it before I install it or is it supposed to/can it go in raw?

Depends how averse you are to it rusting. It doesn't need to be painted in order to install it, but likewise it needn't be left unprotected to rust.

In all fairness it does seem to come plated, but in my opinion plating often tends not to hold up as well as paint.
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Last edited by mukluk on Wed Feb 08, 2023 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mukluk wrote:

Depends how averse you are to it rusting. It doesn't need to be painted in order to install it, but likewise it needn't be left unprotected to rust.


Sounds like I should paint it. Got it. Thanks for the quick reply!
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charles6969
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2023 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what's the loudest exhaust that will fit in the stock aprons
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2023 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

charles6969 wrote:
what's the loudest exhaust that will fit in the stock aprons


An open merged header with no muffler!
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 5:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
I am trying to diagnose/rectify abrupt clutch engagement near top of pedal travel.

To date have replaced nosecone, trans mounts, clutch and T/O bearing.
Also have installed a *refurbished* German pedal assy. The old assy was a rewelded mess.
Added a spacer to Bowden tube. Readjusted pedal freeplay to 1/2".
Transaxle: AH, appears unmolested and sound.

What are the differences between these clutch pedal shafts?

113 721 305A ('46-'63)
113 721 305B ('64-'72)
111 721 305B ('73-'79)

Are they interchangeable?
If (inadvertently) mismatched, how would clutch engagement be affected?


LATER:
I find clutch pedal shaft hook arms come in short and long varieties.
And clutch levers at bellhousing in two lengths also.

It would seem that a mismatch between lever travel at both ends of the clutch cable would adversely affect clutch engagement.

How can I determine which lever is on my trans?
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hi all,

Should there be any kind of grease/lubricant on the rear drum spindle (I don't even know if that's the name for it, but the thing sticking out in the pic above). I know the teeth don't move against each other, but I feel any metal on metal should be lubed, shouldn't it? (If not, I'm in the right thread at least...)
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 3:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

1969vertbug wrote:
Should there be any kind of grease/lubricant on the rear drum spindle (I don't even know if that's the name for it, but the thing sticking out in the pic above). I know the teeth don't move against each other, but I feel any metal on metal should be lubed, shouldn't it? (If not, I'm in the right thread at least...)

It is not necessary to use a fine film of grease on the splines.

What is IMPORTANT is to tighten the rear axle nuts to 250 ft lbs or more and use a brand-new giant cotter pin to retain the axle nut.

Use a Torque Tool, borrow a 250 ft lb torque wrench from O'Reilly, whatever !!!!
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1969vertbug
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2023 4:57 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
1969vertbug wrote:
Should there be any kind of grease/lubricant on the rear drum spindle (I don't even know if that's the name for it, but the thing sticking out in the pic above). I know the teeth don't move against each other, but I feel any metal on metal should be lubed, shouldn't it? (If not, I'm in the right thread at least...)

It is not necessary to use a fine film of grease on the splines.

What is IMPORTANT is to tighten the rear axle nuts to 250 ft lbs or more and use a brand-new giant cotter pin to retain the axle nut.

Use a Torque Tool, borrow a 250 ft lb torque wrench from O'Reilly, whatever !!!!


Thanks for the quick response, Cusser! I'll be sure to do that.
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