Syncro output flange orientation question.

[MarkWard]

Hello, I am converting a 2wd to 4wd. Current step is migrating the syncro engine and transmission to the 2wd chassis. I am making measurements of the output flange center line based on the inner unibody frame rails before I disturb any mounting. This is an unmolested original syncro I am making the measurements on.

The output flange is not centered in the chassis as I expected. It measures off center about 3/16ths of an inch. , but was wondering if the stock output flange center should be centered in the chassis or is it offset slightly?

The output shaft center is slightly to the right side of the chassis. Its actually only off 3/32nds for it to be centered. I can replicate that offset. Any experts around to chime in? Thank you.
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[Bassyaks]

The nightmare begins!!

[MarkWard]

[Bills85Westy]

Hi Mark,

First let me say that I don't specifically know the answer to your question.

There is enough adjustment in both the front and rear mounts to move the output/input shafts in any direction and I would guess up to the 3/16" you see in the existing Syncro if you are measuring the "installed condition". The ears on the transaxle allow the mounts to slide from side to side.

I have done the job you are doing and will say that it is more about the alignment between the output shaft of the transaxle and the input shaft of the front differential that is important.

I just transferred the mounting locations over from the Syncro to the 2wd van for my conversion.

If you don't get the two aligned, you'll experience vibration problems.
There are numerous threads about alignment and the alignment tool that GW made. Here is one:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8149015.

I know this doesn't answer your specific question and you probably already knew this!

Bill
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89 Tristar Syncro Doka - White
85 Westfalia Syncro (conversion)
SAH 1.8T Conversion - 2005 AWP
Engine Conversion Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612144&highlight=
85 Doka L345 Grey - 1.9L

[MsTaboo]

Yes, I remember reading that the whole drivetrain is slightly offset from the factory.
It's part of what makes it hard to align the drivetrain by just using measurements.
Making sure that the whole drivetrain is inline is what matters. I used a construction laser to align the front diff to the transaxle (through the case seams, for the horizontal) and then one of GW's laser tools to get the up/down alignment on the driveshaft (the vertical). Remember that both the front diff and the transaxle have a slight (equal) dip towards the driveshaft.
This method has worked well for me.
The CVs can absorb any slight angles that may result between the body of the van and the drivetrain.

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[gears]

Ooh .. I like that ! Thanks for the tip ..

[MarkWard]

Ok, just came in from the heat. Yes, the two transmission mounting ears have more than enough room to center the flange equally between the side rails. So, where I am measuring it is just where it ended up probably the last time someone had it loose or apart.

I was just wanting to check before I dropped it out of the syncro for hopefully the last time. The r/s transmission mount bracket fits the arc of the crossmember, so that will eliminate some of the chance of getting it wrong. Still overthinking how I am going to deal with the captive nuts. Have read some pretty good ideas on how to best handle this. My preference would be to work from below rather than pulling the camper apart to access the crossmember from above. I might even cut out and graft in the entire bottom section of the syncro cross member with the weld nuts and the bump bar brackets. Might be the cleanest looking option.

Thanks for the information. I'll pay attention for now, but will get more concerned about aligning the two differentials once I get to that point. mark
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[Bills85Westy]

[MarkWard]

Thanks for the link to the burley plates and suggestions. The page won't load from my phone, but I'll check from my computer later. Timewise probably quicker to fabricate them at this point. My nature is to over think everything. That's half of what makes it interesting.
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[Bills85Westy]

[MarkWard]

I was able to open the Burley page. I like how they are using tapped 1/4" plates vs welding nuts to thinner plates. What is odd to me is the plates have a total of 5 holes not 6. Could it be there is one threaded hole in the 2wd chassis that can be utilized? That would be too easy. Taking the day to catch up on home chores.
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