Small Car Performance, DIY Front A/C Installation

rmcd · Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:23 pm Post subject: Heater core valve

I'm still fighting the good fight. I'm happy to report that I've managed to figure out the most complicated method of mounting a condenser. More on THAT when I do the write up.

My core hoses aren't long enough so I'm replacing them with the hose provided.

The instructions are very specific about mounting the heater core control horizontal with the motor servo on the bottom side. Unfortunately the hose runs vertically into the dash.

Did anyone try to mount the valve further back into the tunnel where the hose runs horizontal?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

GreggK · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:55 pm Post subject:

So is the Smallcar AC unit the same as the Vintage Air Gen 4 Magnum unit? With the smallcar kit, can you mount the radio in the center location? What is a mechless radio? Thanks

'88MoneyPit · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:11 pm Post subject:

The smallcar kit uses the vintage air gen 4 unit. If you want to use a center mount radio, you need a shallow unit without a cd player.

Stephen

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:16 pm Post subject:

GreggK · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:07 am Post subject:

How does the system connect to the vanagon electronically? Is any of the stock VW system involved? Thanks

rmcd · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:52 am Post subject:

'88MoneyPit · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:01 am Post subject:

Besides power, the vintage air kit only needs an output to the fan relay

S

GreggK · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:08 am Post subject:

I too have a tin top with AC removed . Only thing remaining was the wiring from the relay behind the dash down to the OXS box where it was cut. I also have an engine conversion Subaru 2.2. Leon, who did my harness, left a wire from the ECU marked AC. Im guessing that will have something to do with the compressor connection.

GreggK · Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:10 am Post subject:

Is the relay behind the dash the fan relay?

GreggK · Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:28 pm Post subject:

Could the servos be relocated out of the way of the dash defrost hole? If you watch the video on the Vintage Air site, they show the assembly of the GEN4. It looks like the servos are just screwed on top of the box. I might be wrong.

rmcd · Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:10 pm Post subject:

sorry havent had time for this project. Ive been drilling holes for the new AC lines on th passenger side of the car.

I took a gander at the serveros an I think htey are positioned over the top of the mechanical vents they control. I don't think the could be moved as I think they must be physically connected to the dampers below.
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

GreggK · Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 5:03 am Post subject:

I looked at the vide a few times. Even zoomed in. It does look like there is a pin or something on the bottom of the servo. I just cant see a hole in the box.

GreggK · Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:44 pm Post subject:

What is the opinion on the heat output on the Smallcar/Gen4 in dash unit?

rmcd · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:47 am Post subject:

Short update. Big thanks to Mao at Small Car for all the help!!

Background.
I have a Syncro that had factory AC that was removed by the PO. The lines and drier where cut off but left in place so I can see the routing and history. Everything else was removed.

My van has a TDI install with the new compressor on the passenger side of the motor. I have decided that I need to orientate the new AC system to accommodate this. I have run the new lines and oriented the condenser to the passenger side of the vehicle so as not to cross over in the engine bay or elsewhere. I will decide later if this was more efficient!!

My new oversized condenser has an inlet at the top and outlet at the bottom on the passenger side.

First lesson. I have attempted to place the new drier next to the horn on the passenger side of the vehicle outside the frame rail as shown on a couple installs. I have moved it around a bit and clocked it in different directions, but a good solution evades me. Its becoming personal!

Note the condenser inlet and outlet is facing down towards the ground and is a significant distance from the drier making it very easy to loop a hose to each connection.

Unfortunately, I have yet to determine a feasible hose path from the bottom condenser outlet to the drier location if it is placed near the horn. The total "as the crow flies" distance is only about 8" with a significant piece of steel in the form of a frame rail compromising the path.

My neighbors are starting to hold their kids inside because I have spent so much time laying on my back twiddling my hoses trying to find a solution.

Has anyone else done this and determined a good path for the new hoses or given up and moved the drier?

Care to share your solution?
Thanks
Rob
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=

ALIKA T3 · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 2:19 pm Post subject:

I actually have a Syncro build right now with a Tdi too on the ground.
Ahu.
I will look at it since I plan do to the same thing as you.
Do you have the original looking drier?
Maybe finding one with different orientation would be possible?
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

warmblood58 · Samba Member Joined: March 22, 2005 Posts: 331

Thanks for the information! I have a subie powered syncro that the PO converted from tintop to poptop - he left original AC plumbing in and orig Subie Compresser is still on engine. Years ago, I had SmallCar do a SVX conversion on a '85 Westy and while the AC was a improvement, it still lacked real cooling capacity. With AV upfront under dash, I am tempted to hang a curtain behind driver seat to trap cool air. Great thread!

kourt · Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:18 pm Post subject:

Notes on my Small Car Dashboard AC install:

This project took me about three weekends to install, and I'm still not totally done with it.

You receive two steel plates with the kit--one to cover the fresh air vent to the old airbox, and another to cover the fresh air intake to the back of the van cabin.

The second steel plate also serves as the base for the new Vintage Air Gen IV air handler. Proper placement of this plate is very important--it needs to be centered and set at the proper depth relative to the dashboard and the front of the vehicle, or else your air handler will sit too far towards the back of the van. Tolerances are very small here--just half of a centimeter will make a difference.

I installed my air handler too far aft and had to remove the dash and set it into the nose of the van by about 1 cm more. My mechless radio would not have fit without that modification.

I decided the ash tray was not worth keeping, due to space intrusions from the air handler, so I converted that to a Brickwerks dual gauge pod with trans oil temp and engine oil temp.

The glove box would close, but only with some fussing, due to the amount of heater hoses and wiring harnesses passing through the area. I carefully tied things back to the dash but had to trim away some of the (mostly never seen) plastic of the glove box to make it more user friendly.

The steel plates arrive naked, and I would suggest painting them just for the sake of corrosion prevention.

One of the great merits of this system is the flexible air handler delivery hoses... you can crush, bend, and really abuse the hoses to make things fit, and they make the whole system work when shoehorning. The OE hoses are paper or hard plastic and would not accept this kind of abuse.

To honor the warranty on the kit you must use R134. I don't care about the warranty so I used RedTek. I charged it up last night and the unit cools impressively, keeping the cabin comfortable even at low blower speeds. It was only 83 degrees yesterday but I was very comfortable with sub-50 degree air coming from the vents.

I've also tested the heat output of the system and I have to say it is equal to the heat output of the OE Vanagon heater system. No problems staying warm.

My receiver/drier (with trinary switch) is mounted on the passenger side of the radiator/condenser, behind the passenger headlight. There is a great deal of room to work with here and the "universal" r/d kits sold by Vintage Air fit perfectly here.

I plumbed my high/low side ports on either side of the compressor at the back of the van, so the gauges and all service activity occurs back there. I'm running a Bostig conversion with a Ford FS-10 compressor. I used heat shielding on the AC lines to protect them from the catalytic converter heat.

I have definitely gotten what I wanted from the Small Car system: simplified climate controls, a modern system without sacrificing the overall aesthetics of the Vanagon dashboard, and cold air blowing in my face/on my windshield (for defrost) in my camper van.

This system needs illuminated controls badly. I'm going to have to hack together some home-brew fiber optic illumination under the padded dash lip to shine down on the controls.

kourt
austin, tx

rmcd · Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:41 pm Post subject:

kourt · Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:49 pm Post subject:

Howdy,

I'll get some pictures in about a week--sorry for the delay.

The vertical plate that bolts to the air handler had to be carefully bent to fit my needs. A better design would have used an L shaped piece of angle iron for the air handler, with the bottom of the L being bolted to the base plate via grooves that allow for variable positioning in the install. I might still do that modification myself--it would be easy.

This system is totally worth the money and effort if you have a camper van with a poptop (and therefore no front AC vents) and you live in the southern latitudes and do a lot of summer driving.

While I had the dashboard removed I coated the sheetmetal under the dash (just above the upper grille) with DynaMat. That treatment, combined with the capping of the air intake and the dressing of several grommets in the front clip has slightly reduced wind/road noise in my van.

Oh, also, I love all the headroom in the back of the van from removing the original AC evaporator box and plenum. Wow, the rear view mirror actually serves a purpose now!

One more thing--if you have the GoWesty cruise control system, you have to relocate it behind the air handler, just below the driver side wiper arm.

More later--stay tuned.

kourt

rmcd · Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:26 am Post subject:

I'm now fiddling with the glove box side and windshield hoses. This install is definately 10# of stuff into a 1# bag.

Anyone got pictures of the heater hose routing with the ac hose interference in the glove box area? Did you have to cut out the glove box hook too?
_________________
VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight=


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Small Car Performance, DIY Front A/C Installation
Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 ... 35, 36, 37 Next Jump to:

	Forum Index -> Vanagon	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 ... 35, 36, 37 Next Jump to:
Page 3 of 37