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Top End Rebuild here I come
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 1:00 pm    Post subject: Top End Rebuild here I come Reply with quote

Damn, the worst christmas news ever. I was having trouble with the bus and took it to a friends shop, only to find out I have 50% leakage in 1#, 30% in 2#, 17 in 3#, and 25% in the 4th. So jugs and valves need to be redone. Would I be crazy to try to do this myself? I am being quote a "high" quote of around 900 dollars. Give or take what he finds when he drops the motor. What else should I do while I've got the motor on the stand? I was thinking an oil sump and cooler and whatever else you guys suggest. I did a search on top end and looks like its a major job for a new mechanic like myself. Oh well its gotta be done. Thanks guys

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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You diddn't state what year/ engine.... upright 1600 or later model type 2/4 engine...
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, I meant a 78' Transporter with a 2.0l in it.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, judging by the quote you posted I figured it had to be the later engine but wanted to clarify that.

There was at least a few threads on this you may be able to find.

actually here are some, this guy bajorek asked a bunch of questions and there may be some good info in going through some of his old threads... type in rebuild engine and his login " bajorek" for the author

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?mode=results


you may find some others in a search or just wait for Ratwell, amskeptic and the others who are well versed in these beasts to share the wealth.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Top End Rebuild here I come Reply with quote

Island Bwoy 420 wrote:
Damn, the worst christmas news ever. I was having trouble with the bus and took it to a friends shop, only to find out I have 50% leakage in 1#, 30% in 2#, 17 in 3#, and 25% in the 4th. So jugs and valves need to be redone. Would I be crazy to try to do this myself?

Nope. I wouldn't try to rehone a set of cylinders without watching someone else do it first if that's what you mean. Skip the headwork and get a machine shop that does VW heads to do it. They have a lot of jigs setup to do it quickly and do it right. As for assembly you can do all of that.

Quote:
I am being quote a "high" quote of around 900 dollars. Give or take what he finds when he drops the motor.

Is that in writing? Cool
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope that what he told me on the phone. He charges 60 an hour for labor so with parts included it that a good deal? What is going rate for a job like this at 60$/hr?

Thanks for the quick responses
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Bottomend
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rebuilding the top end is not out of your reach. But you should ask yourself if it's worth it. It might not be the wisest money spent if the engine is old. the last thing you want is to pull it all apart and then in 6 months from now have to take it out again to go over the bottomend.

This next comment isn't ment to condem anyone but... are you SURE this shop has your best intrest's at stake? Are they totally trustwrothy? Do you know other people who've had work done there? The first sign to me would be if they didn't mention the age/use/abuse level of the engine in it's current state. Again leading back to my origenial comment about possibly have to change other stuff 6 months down the road. It would almost be TOO convienent for them to recommend a top end only reuild and then have you come back to do a full bottom end rebuild as well.... it wouldn't be the first time someone has done this. I'm new to VW's and I've already heard lots of horror stories. I've had my share of them too!

There are lots of good resources availible to you if you choose to do your own work. I rebuilt my own engine after owning my bus for 6 months.( I've had it exactly one year and I've got 2500 miles on my engine... purring like a kitten!) I had NEVER done anything even remotely close to a project like this. These forums are a real help for people like you and me.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to suggest that you would at least want to put new pistons and cylinders ( about 350 for 2.0liter?) and unless you get a really good place like Headflow masters to rebuild you heads alot of people go with new heads at about 300 each.... so that is 900+ right there.

the type2/4 is not a cheap engine to rebuild... but you get what you pay for. if you (or the builder) cut corners you can end up eating some time/ money or live with the fact that it may not last long (or both)

for instance the condition of the cam lobes and lifters is always a big ??? and you need to split the case to be sure of the cam. and then what about the wrist pin bushings in the rods and the main and rod bearings???? see???

rebuilding the top end on a bottom end that is worn or near worn out is always the question...at least the one I always ask...
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dude there, Tim is a nice guy but I can def. see what you are saying. I asked him if is worth it to do a complete rebuild and I am considering it. He said around 2k for a total rebuild and under a grand to do the top end. After having disturbing work done by the only other local aircooled shop I brought it to Tim. He has worked on a friends bus and she was happy with it. I jumped to have it worked on because I need a car and both shops are going from 60 to 70 and hour after the first of the year. So I brought it in to get all that out of the way. I really am in the air about the bottomend. I know that it would probably out of my reach to do a top end yet because of tools, time, and other variables. I was considering it but after thinking about it I am shifting my question to how much should it cost to have done. How many hours of labor should it take? What should I ask the mechanic, what else should I know before I layout this kind of money? Also he said that the engine has probably seen 200k but he didnt say much more than that. Thanks guys
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Last edited by Island Bwoy 420 on Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

K, you make a really good point. I am leaning more towards a full blown rebuild but I want a price in writing so it doesnt skyrocket after he starts. Would I be better to buy another aircooled 2.0 and swap? Vanagon up to 83 had the air cooled 2.0 right? is that a possible switch? I have alot of things to weight out dont I? I am just trying to find out as much as possible so that I can make an informed position before I drop serious cash. Anyone have a decent 2.0 for sale?!
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If he is charging you 60 an hour and is quoting only 900 total... how many hours is he estimating 6? 10?

even a top end is not just a few hours job... or what kind of parts are you getting? just hone and re ring the cyls???

who is doing the valve job or rebuilding the heads?... new guides? all new valves or just exhaust?

hell a gasket set, oil and a filter, tune up parts is a hundred bucks...

you have some investigating/ chioces to make... IMO

this is always a tough thing for late model bus engines are not cheap ( as cheap as 1600's)
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He doesnt sub any work out he said. He told me just jugs and rings was what he would do. I am really going to start looking at a different engine or sending off my core. The more post you guys post the more I wonder about all this. I dont know what I would do without the samba!? I will take all the info you guys provided me with and go speak to him and get to the bottom line. I really appriciate everything. Thanks again

KYLE
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I can only speculate from this side of the keyboard not being there and all but if all your getting is teardown and just rings reassembly for 900 bucks..... I'd say ...err.... no thanks, I'm investigating other options. Just my opinion...

I mean no valve/head work? that just sounds shady to me, let's see what the others think.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Island Bwoy 420 wrote:
He doesnt sub any work out he said. He told me just jugs and rings was what he would do.

I don't know what parts he intends to use but a Mahle P&C set for a 2L runs about $450 (half price for the cheap stuff). I think his estimate is reasonable but you have no idea how far down the road the repairs will get you. If you are trying to minimize cost you have no choice and have to take that route anyway. I know what it's like not having the bus to drive and depend on.

If the heads are also a problem the labor isn't going to have to go up to finish the job, just the cost of parts (some good news). It's pretty easy to test them to see if they leak once they are off the engine. If there's visible damage they'll have to be replaced also, preferrable as a pair.

Since no one on Samba will be pitching in a few bucks to pay for it I think it basically boils down to this:

- $250 min to do P&C yourself
- $350 min to do heads yourself
- $900 for him to do one of the other (inc parts), $1300 to do both (inc parts)
- $1100 to buy and put in a new engine yourself
- $1400 to have him put one in (you pull yours out)
- $1600 to have to R&R engine

I think $2K is low for a rebuild of your engine. They seem to come in closer to $2500 - $3000 but maybe that's just quality parts adding up. Anyone know any better? I'd probably send my money to Bob Donald's at Boston Engine based on reputation assuming I had enough money.

BTW, the Headflow Masters website is hard to find. The price for stock heads rebuilt with core is closer to $175.
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Last edited by ratwell on Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
$1600 to have to R&R engine


Whats that? I am now looking at other engines out of 72-83 busses and tossing that idea around. I dont want to rebuild the top half and have the lower half go out 8 months later. I want to make an informed decision but the right one. I am looking for a good price but would put out more for a better longer lasting job. I have some thinking to do before I have this guy rip apart my engine.

You guys are a great help in this tough process. Thanks again
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Island Bwoy 420
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooh does it mean redo and rebuild? lol
I would like to find someone to do it for 1600! Let me in on your secret. I was thinking about asking keifernet to rebuild it for me lol! Hey Ratwell wanna make some money?
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, I meant $1900. R&R: Remove old engine, replace with new AVP engine obtained from Bus Depot. Send your core back.

Quote:
I dont want to rebuild the top half and have the lower half go out 8 months later.

Regular oil changes preserve the bottom end. Lack of oil will make it seize. Dirty oil will wear it out. Over time the bearings eventually wear out and the oil pressure drops so low the crankcase has to be retired. It can also go "pop" and dump all of the oil.

The only way to be sure is the expensive way: split the case. However, you can make a very educated guess if you've got a maintenance history of oil changes with mileage and an oil pressure tester/gauge. Good oil pressure means the pump is good and bearing tolerances are tight.

The top end wears with mileage and is accelerated with abuse from hard driving. They wouldn't call it a top end rebuild if it couldn't be done on it's own. That's my opinion.
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Last edited by ratwell on Mon Dec 29, 2003 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does your engine still run at all? how much oil does it use? if the cyls are that shot I'd think it would have alot of blowby and not run worth shit. how was the leakdown test performed???
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bummer there Island Bwoy. Sad

I would agree with Ratwells and Keifer's call on this. It all depends on your finances, with what you can do.

I would imagine you are looking at a longblock (ether a dfferent one or yours rebuilt) so that you can use the webers you have on there + maintain the hydaulic lifters. Aligned bored would be useful for longer life (personal opinion).

http://www.busdepot.com/busdepot/view.jsp?model=57&category=15&group=8&prodgroup=1056
thebus depot sells a 78 2.0 long block for $1100 +your core. I don't know where they come from (AVP?) I would call them to make sure it doesn't come from GEX under a new label. Ron over there is a pretty straight up guy to me so far, I would talk to him.

http://www.bostonengine.com/enginepricelist.html Boston Bob gets about $2200 + your core for a long block. He is pretty well thought of.

Last time I checked, Raby quoted me about $4500 for a stock rebuild + about 3 months. I don't know what that gets you but they think highly of him also. Too rich for my blood, however.

It is your money, your bus, and your call.

Pick wisely however. Get your money's worth.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2003 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
Last time I checked, Raby quoted me about $4500 for a stock rebuild + about 3 months. I don't know what that gets you but they think highly of him also.

That's a bummer. It used to be $3k and got you a little headwork and CR alterations to make the head run cooler with a little more HP. I know someone with this engine who paid that price and was very happy.
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