Really? Lost most of my CVJ bolts

[SCM]

So, I was just under my van trying to track down a wee bit of a coolant leak when I notice that 4 of the 6 inner CVJ retaining bolts on the drivers side are missing and at least 1 of the bolts on the passenger side is backing out.

The CVJs were new when I bought the van 3 years ago and we do most of our camping way down bumpy dirt roads. So, I can see how they would back out if they weren't installed/torqued correctly.

When I get replacements, what is the torque spec and should some sort of loc-tite be used? Any special tricks of the trade to be aware of? It seems simple enough but I ask because obviously at some point a "pro" goofed it up.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[Merian]

You MUST clean the bolt threads of all oil with brake cleaner and then use it on a Q-tip or something to clean the female threads also.

You MUST use NEW, not old, Schnorr washers each time. I tested this on a Porsche once just to see if reuse was ok - it wasn't.

IF VW used moon plates, then use those.

Some use Loctite, I have never needed to because I follow the above.

Inspect the wrenching fixture and threads on the bolts (cap screws) carefully - use a magnifier if you want - and if ok, they can be reused. If replaced, be sure a fastener strength spc. is... ah.. respected.

Check the Bentley for the torque spec.

[vanagonjr]

While I would not say that they are essential, you could install these locking bolts from Aircooled.net and not have to worry about those bumpy roads.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/CV-Joint-Bolt-LOCKING-Type-1-2-and-3-8320-p/8320.htm
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John - 86 Wolfsburg Westfalia "Weekender"
Flint reversed 1.8T W/Passat 5-Speed
LiMBO (late model bus club) www.limbobus.org
LiMBO is on Facebook too! https://www.facebook.com/groups/
FAQ thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525798

[SCM]

[syncrodoka]

Look on 42.2

[SCM]

[boof1306]

Funny, my wife says "did you have a man look". The really annoying thing is she is usually right.
Back to cvj's. They may have not been tensioned correctly but I think the big thing to learn here is not to leave cvj or bolts unchecked for three years. I check grease mine every 6 to 12 months depending on usage. Greg

[Merian]

re: locking bolts

The torque from the engine is transmitted via the faces of the two assemblies being in tight contact, NOT by the bolts. The tension in the bolts hold the faces tightly together.

If the locking bolts do not keep them tensioned then they will experience shear and will break. So be sure those locking bolts keep the bolts tight and not just act like safety wiring to keep the bolts from backing out all the way.

[tschroeder0]

Jegs locking CV bolt kit is bomber.

[furrylittleotter]

No offense, you obviously did not know any better but you really should check your cv joint bolts more often than every 3 years. I do a quick check every oil change because I am paranoid. Every 10,000 miles would probably suffice.

I do not do any of the things people have said you have to do…no q tips, no special locks, no loctite, nothing.

I just tighten the crap out of each one and count as I go so I do not miss one.

I jack the van up so I can wedge a 2 by 4 in between the tire and the ground and move the wheel for each bolt so i can get perfect alignment and maximum leverage. If you have a helper you can probably do the same thing using the brakes instead.

In all the time I have had my van one bolt became slightly loose and I may have forgotten to tighten it, who knows?.

I suspect the shop did not tighten them enough.

Neil2

[Syncroincity]

Of the ones that remain, check for bent bolts; also try to ensure none of the holes got ovaled... I had to replace a stub axle once for this.
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT

Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight=

[davideric9]

Try Nord Lock washers. And yes, I've had cv joints professionally replaced, by the best shop in the SF Bay area and had the bolts come loose. Seems like rechecking is best option.

I purchased the Nord Lock washers for the next time the bolts need to come out...

Here is a good video showing he Nord Lock

Link
[/url]
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1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[boof1306]

Great sounding product but aren't they saying that you can't use them with anything stronger than grade 8 bolts. Cv bolts are all above 10.9. Any mechanical engineers out there to confirm this.

[vanagonjr]

[cvbill]

John W always told me to make sure the mating surfaces of the CV and the axle flanges are grease free. Hard to do as they are full of grease and you try to maneuver them in place. If not, you may be torqueing down on a layer of grease, which will continue to ooze after you're done with the bolts. He said retorque after a couple hundred miles.
To me, cv trouble comes with off-roading
Let's go break something at SyncroFest!!
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Ideology trumps Reality - no exceptions

[davideric9]

If I understand the NordLock correctly, they recommend lubruication on the bolt, like has been said, its a greasy situation working with repacked CVs.
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[SCM]

[dobryan]

I have always torqued my CV bolts to 36 ft lbs, using the original arc shaped plate under each set of bolts. I don't bother with the bolts or holes being totally degreased, no loctite. I check the torque after 100 miles and then am good to go until the next time I need to change a boot (or a transmission... ). YMMV, others have different methods that work equally well...
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

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[shadetreetim]