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Bake on engine paint. warp concerns
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Superman74
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:21 am    Post subject: Bake on engine paint. warp concerns Reply with quote

So I have some silica based engine paint I want to use on the engine case. It says to bake for 30 mins @ 250, 400, and finally 600 farenheit. Can I cause harm in doing this? The case is back from the machine shop and I am finally getting around to final assembly. I know that there are some rubber grommets around the case studs i ought to pull. Otherwise I wouldn't think there wouild be an issue.. perhaps to be prudent I should torque the case halves to spec first.. Thoughts?
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rockurob
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

valve seats start failing/falling out at 450+ degrees
thus 600 degrees probably would not be a good idea
just my 2 cents, but you do what you want Wink
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Superman74
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not plan to touch the heads. I wouldn't gamble on my Steve Tim's. The case halves though, this is an AS-21 case stripped bare.. I need am curious how to pull this fuel inject ground or sensor out of the case.. but i would still like to bake the engine enamel on.. Thats what the concern is..
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75smith
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't, bake on engine paint is for steel/iron cases, they can take more heat then aluminium/megnesiun can, personally I would not trust a fresh cut case to temps above 350, you can warp the case, even if torqued
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rockurob
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Superman74 wrote:
I wouldn't gamble on my Steve Tim's. The case halves though, this is an AS-21 case stripped bare..


I would gamble with your case, but I would not with mine Wink

seriously....I would not overheat your case at any time....overheating
a case is what we try to avoid....over heating is "over heating"
doesn't matter if bare case or complete running engine(although in a
running engine, head studs pull at high temperatures), I am not a
metallurgist, but really think that the integrity of the case may be
compromised at 650 degrees....

but then again, just my 2 cents, and if you still insist and go on
ahead with this operation, give us feed back on your results...
you may be a pioneer in this endeavor
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been using this stuff on the outside of my case (and transaxle) with pretty good results. 2 coats please. Does a nice job on magnesium and aluminum alloys.

http://www.gibbsbrandlubricant.com/
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painting cases should be punishable by death. If you MUST do it, just use a regular enamel like Duplicolor multipurpose auto paint. I'm sure Bernie Bergmann would be proud.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Painting cases should be punishable by death. If you MUST do it, just use a regular enamel like Duplicolor multipurpose auto paint. I'm sure Bernie Bergmann would be proud.


Confused WHY?
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That kind of heat will likely warp the case and change its microstructure.

600F is beyond the safe limit for most MG alloys. If you were to use this temperature, you would need great care to assure even heating and cooling cycles, but even then, 600F is too hot.
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't go over 300F, and make sure no bolts are tightened.

if you torque the case and bake it at 400, it will be junk. Yes really.

And besides all the paint would fall off in the oven from the oil and smoke coming out of the pores. You'd have to bake, paint, then bake again.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
don't go over 300F, and make sure no bolts are tightened.

if you torque the case and bake it at 400, it will be junk. Yes really.

And besides all the paint would fall off in the oven from the oil and smoke coming out of the pores. You'd have to bake, clean, paint, then bake again.

fixed Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless it's new probably more like clean, clean, clean, clean, bake, clean, paint, bake.

Laughing

But it should work. My buddy brought me a case that was painted black. I cleaned it and it came out safety yellow. Can see it a mile away now. AH, that's why they painted over it. The paint is stronger than the magnesium so we'll just have to live with it.

Gotta love those gob-stopper engines.

We had a SBC that was metallic purple, under that was orange, then red, then orange. Came out all patchy and horrible looking. Careful with the paint!
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Howard 111
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painting the case in or out is a bad idea. If it showed any benefit, don't you think the VW engineers would have done it? I've seen show only cars with painted cases for looks only, but they are hardly even driven. I prefer an engine that lasts.
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bluebus86
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it has been found that often a THIN coat of FLAT BLACK paint on the outside of the cylinder fins will help remove heat better than the bare iron finish. you want it thin a possible to get minimal coating, else it starts to insulate.

I read about this form several sources and then read about an experiment done at with thermal couples, and heated VW cylinders and their cooling rate. Rusty dirty ones were worst, bare new clean was much better, and by a bit more, the thin flat black paint was best at cooling. that flat black paint (thin) worked very well at heat removal on cylinder fins.

A thin coat on the motor could be beneficial in that it may help reduce oxidation of the case, a heavily oxidized case is rough, holds dirt , and can insulate. A Shiny new surface will not radiate much, like a flat black color. Crud and grime are worst and should be scraped off and washed away, as that insulates the heat in, like a little blanket.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluebus86 wrote:


A thin coat on the motor could be beneficial in that it may help reduce oxidation of the case, a heavily oxidized case is rough, holds dirt , and can insulate.

This is the only reason I will paint, or recommend painting an engine, the oxidation can be slowed by using a thin layer of paint-flat black is the general go to, although any decent paint can be used

Hoover had also recommended thin layers of paint for cases showing signs of oxidation

VW engineers used a chromate layer, and it is harder to get/more expensive in the aftermarket world, so we improvise and use paint
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weren't cases coated with something from the factory which made them gold-ish colored on the outside? I don't think it was cosmoline either. I can passivate cases at work to prevent corrosion, and they'll still look like they haven't been coated at all.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Weren't cases coated with something from the factory which made them gold-ish colored on the outside? I don't think it was cosmoline either. I can passivate cases at work to prevent corrosion, and they'll still look like they haven't been coated at all.


chromate coating or similar, sometimes referred to as DOW,

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=275361

ad to get your case done
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=587241

older cases were more magnesium then aluminum, so were treated, later cases stopped getting this treatment to reduce cost, and because the benefits of the coating no longer were as great(less chance of later cases corroding)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Krylon Semi-Gloss. Probably have 1500 miles on this paint job. If it was going to come loose, I'm thinking it would have by now. Case was hot tanked before assembly, so obviously it must be free of any and all oils or contamination.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the visible area of the block on my 1679 a few years ago and it's still holding up very well. I used a stainless brush and wax/grease remover (auto paint prep) to prep the case (did that a few times), then sprayed it with a light coat of PPG DP40 epoxy primer. The top coat is PPG single stage urethane with hardener, and I added a flattening agent to make it a satin finish instead of gloss. Color is a light charcoal I made with leftover silver and black paints. Still looks great 24K miles later.

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Close up taken today. I had to split the case to change the cam bearings which chipped the paint along the seam, but other than that it's held up great.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this conquest is the result of the VW club driving on Daytona beach every weekend.. and the resultant rust.. so I had flat black header paint. I will let it sit untorqued at 250 for an hour and a half. Thanks for the heads up guys.
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