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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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 Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 8:23 am Post subject: |
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I picked up a used engine with less than 50k on the clock from one of my local salvage yards, so I could pilfer the externals to go with my long block. It was stored inside and was in really nice shape overall. I stripped it down and gave it a good once over. I will clean it up later on, prep it for storage and keep it as a spare. The black plastic valve cover does little for the detailed block, so I picked up a metal Contour valve cover to replace it. I decided to check the timing while I had the valve cover off, just to make sure. It was set well, but I dialed it in a bit more. I also took this opportunity to install the Bostig High Capacity Oil Pan (the oil pick up tube is not pictured). I would highly recommend this upgrade and to install it with the engine out of the van (as others have noted). I inspected and cleaned the externals and used all new gaskets, where applicable.
TIP:
The valve cover is off of a 97-99 Ford Contour, with the 2.0 dual overhead cam. They are getting harder to find, but can still be had. Make sure you get the hardware to go with it, as they are different (bolts and bushings). The part number for the Felpro gasket is VS5460R, which comes with the grommets needed for the bushings.
DISCLAIMER:
This has nothing to do with the Bostig conversion. There are some variations of this cover (other years/makes) with different stampings that will also work, but I am not sure of which and if the gaskets are the same. Two additional things to make note of is that the oil cap will sit up a little higher and the plastic cam cover on the front does not seal around the perimeter (there is a small gap). The oil cap may rub the insulation of the engine cover. This was not an issue for me as I had decided beforehand to follow a different path with my engine cover, which I will illustrate later on. The gap in the plastic cam cover is pretty insignificant in my opinion, so it made little difference to me … but that is just personal preference. Other than that, it is a straight bolt on and the factory oil cap will work. Once again, this is a custom application and is up to the installer to verify that everything will work as it should.
Last edited by Signalocity on Tue May 13, 2014 3:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Syncronicity
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2009
Posts: 839
Location: Glenwood Springs, CO
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| Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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WOW  Someday I hope to have the talent, patience, resources, time and a shop just like yours to do this type of restoration  Beautiful work.
_________________
Tom, Juanita, Iggy & Abbey the Dirty Desert Dogs
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Syncronicity wrote: |
| WOW Someday I hope to have the talent, patience, resources, time and a shop just like yours to do this type of restoration Beautiful work. |
Thanks, I appreciate it! It can test ones mettle for sure, but I am pretty relentless in my approach. How ever long it takes, it takes lol ... it can't be rushed. |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Wed May 14, 2014 6:40 am Post subject: |
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I was in Bostig group 19 (probably the last to be up and running) and the parts started to roll in. This was one of the last groups (if not the last) to still have the cooling tower mounted to the back of the head and the housing to relocate the throttle. I understand why they made the changes to the later groups, but I was glad to be in on this one. All the billet aluminum is pretty custom looking and this group had the newer muffler bracket upgrade as well. I personally prefer this configuration and feel like I got the best of everything lol. I opted to add a block heater, in hopes of traveling to the far north at some point and figured it was a nice add-on to include. I had the fuel rail and exhaust manifold Jet Hot coated (http://www.jet-hot.com/). This is not really cost affective for a standard conversion and the benefit is always being debated. They are pretty local to where I am and I have had a few dealings with them over the years, so they cut me a good deal. This made it more viable for me to include in the build, but not anything I would consider necessary. I used the factory gasket from Ford (opposed from Right Stuff) on the EGR pipe, in the off chance that I ever want to mess with it again. My noise suppresser was damaged when they removed the used engine. It was showing to be NLA from ford, but I was able to source a new one online. The Ford part number was YS4Z-1880-AA.
TIP:
There are two styles of throttle bodies, as noted in the Bostig instructions. They have provisions for both, but I knew I wanted the barrel style. There is nothing wrong with either version; I just wanted to avoid using the adaptor. The barrel style throttle came on model year 2003-2004. The gasket is also different for either throttle and there seems to be some misinformation out there on the correct part numbers. The Felpro gasket part number for the barrel style is 61159, which is the same one Bostig used for the throttle housing.
TIP:
One thing I would recommend prior to installing a Zetec, is to clean the idle air control valve (fifth picture). It is located on the back side of the intake manifold, and is known to cause issues with higher mileage engines, or engines that have seen a lot of cheap gas. It is not super hard to get to once in the van by any means, but the cost of a gasket (Ford part number F6RZ-9F670-BA) will put you one step ahead of the game and possibly save a diagnosis headache down the line. I used some throttle body cleaner and a swab to clean up any deposits.
TIP:
Focus’ with the cold weather package had a block heater, mounted in the block behind the intake manifold (sixth and seventh picture). They can still be had new from Ford, for not too much. The Ford part number for the heater is F5RZ-6A051-AA and YS4Z-6B018-AB is for the cord.
DISCLAIMER:
This has nothing to do with the Bostig conversion. The block heater will require you to remove a freeze plug. This is not terribly hard to do, but you are messing with the engine block. It is the responsibility of the installer to follow proper procedure.
Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:33 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 8:51 am Post subject: |
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So one thing that I failed to notice when I picked up my used engine, was that it had a white plug on the engine harness (first picture). The Bostig documentation only listed the smaller red plug or the purple one. I knew it was not the smaller red one, so I had not given it that close of a look. It turns out that the white plug was fairly limited production and I am not sure what quantified the difference. Instead of doing the purple connector switch out, I just sourced a good used harness. Upon receiving the used harness with the purple connector, I now noticed that I had the TPS connector for the older version throttle body (go figure). This ended up working in my favor, as the earlier Bostig conversions with the rotated TPS pulled that connector a little close to the taught side. I swapped out that connector (only 3 wires vs. the many on the purple one) and left enough lead to extend it another inch or so. At the bottom of the intake manifold is a plastic connector that the brake booster hardline slides into (third picture), to create vacuum. The one on my used engine had a crack in it, where the engine was resting on the pallet. It has a red sleeve that acts like a Chinese finger trap and an O-ring inside to seal it. The Ford part number is YS4Z-9A475-AA, which was an adventure in itself to figure out. This thing was the bane of my existence for the better part of an afternoon. It has a toothed washer at the base of it that locks it into place as you push it into the intake. I was at a loss on how to remove it properly and just ended up breaking it to bits. I used copper lock nuts for the exhaust manifold studs.
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Fri May 16, 2014 7:14 am Post subject: |
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I have heard that these cookies are NLA  . I began to break down the fuel tank and came across what might be the rustiest part off the van. The outside of the sending unit was not all that bad, but inside was another story. Believe it or not, that thing was still working. I used some adhesive remover to strip the residue from the tank and flushed it clean multiple times, before leaving it outside to air dry.
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 7:48 am Post subject: |
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One benefit to dividing up the cleaning of the under carriage into sections, is that it breaks up the monotony and helps keep me focused on the finer details. It was pretty cool to see it coming together and loosely reaching what I would judge to be a halfway point.
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1868
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Mon May 19, 2014 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Phishman068 wrote: |
| What are you using to prep, sand, and wipe down the underside of the vehicle? I'm at this at the same time as you and finding effectively removing the old undercoat and degreasing things is a bit of a pain in the butt! |
I start off with a small putty knife, to remove as much as of the under coating as I can. I then move on to a Scotch Brite pad. I use some degreaser for any grimey spots I come across, but mostly just soapy water. I tried a handful of different things, but ended up coming back to this combo more than anything else. A wire brush came in handy for some of the tighter corners. I just rinsed everything well with clean water when I was finished, since I was not taking it down to bare metal. It is a huge pain I know, with crap falling in your face and dripping down your arm constantly. Keep at it! |
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Signalocity
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Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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So coming back to the fuel tank, I had to address the broken vent line brackets. Using some abs square tubing and 1/8 inch sheet plastic, I was able to fabricate a decent substitute. I epoxied the pieces together and then weighted them down (I knew those manuals would come in handy). I only needed the three channels, as the Bostig conversion eliminates a fair bit of fuel line. I then epoxied the mounts directly to the top of the tank, in the factory location and finished it off with a 1/16 inch sheet of EPDM rubber. I opted not to replace the factory insulation, as I personally do not see the need for it. To me, it seemed to trap dirt and water better than anything else (if you have had the pleasure of taking one down, you know what I mean lol). I instead decided to adhere 1/4 inch sheet EPDM rubber to areas of the tank that I thought might come in contact with the body. This offers some insulation and will keep the tank from rubbing/wearing against the underside. This should also aid greatly in the install and offer a little more room for the starter and wiring as well. New stainless hardware, gaskets, sending unit and vent valves are also going in. I later soaked the tank down in plastic care, to shine it up and help protect it.
TIP:
There is a small filter/strainer located inside the tank (14th picture) and could easily be over looked. Removal is simple enough, as it just unscrews. Mine had a little sediment built up on it, which washed clean fair enough. I could not find a source for a new one, so be gentle with it.
TIP:
Be sure to clock the sending unit in the correct orientation. You don't want to find out that your fuel gauge is not reading correctly, after you get everything back in. I also tested it with a meter prior to install and filled the tank to check for leaks.
TIP:
Rubber, plastic and even steel are readily available on Amazon.com, in all different varieties and sizes. When you just need a project size quantity of something, it comes in very handy.
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syncrodoka
Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12008
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Why is the bottom half of the gas tank so shiny? |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Tue May 20, 2014 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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| syncrodoka wrote: |
| Why is the bottom half of the gas tank so shiny? |
That is just my camera flash reflecting off the inside. The van had been sitting for a little while and not driven that often. I gather this contributed to the state of the sending unit and the fuel/rust staining on the other half of the tank. This was a "during" shot and I was able to clean it up a good bit more with some throttle body cleaner.
Last edited by Signalocity on Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Wed May 21, 2014 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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Just a hodge podge of stuff going on here. More parts coming out of the van and being broken down for plating or painting. The previous owner had a vintage trailer harness scotch locked into the wiring, so I picked up a new one and soldered it in properly. I do not plan to do any towing, but some trailer lights might come in handy. The boots on the tail light connectors where aged and falling apart. I was able to get a couple of new ones from the VW dealer, part number 251-971-867. The vacuum hose diagram on the junction box wasn't going to do me much good any longer, so I just cleaned it up and put an electrical warning label on it that I had. The transaxle also got prepped for shipping to AA.
TIP:
You can use a small jewelers flat head to release the spade terminals in plastic connectors.
UPDATE:
It turns out that the tail light boots (part number 251-971-867), are currently NLA from VW.
Last edited by Signalocity on Mon Jun 23, 2014 7:17 am; edited 1 time in total |
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phlogiston
Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2009
Posts: 336
Location: seattle
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| Posted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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| it's twice as fun to read a build thread when someone can take good pictures in addition to doing great work. |
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 7:23 am Post subject: |
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| phlogiston wrote: |
| it's twice as fun to read a build thread when someone can take good pictures in addition to doing great work. |
I take loads of pictures. It is easy to get caught up in the process and forget to pick up the camera from time to time, but it is invaluable when it comes to piecing everything back together. It is also nice to have on hand if it comes time to sell. My documentation is probably a little bit on the excessive side lol. |
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dobryan
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Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 16508
Location: Brookeville, MD
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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| dobryan wrote: |
What did you do to treat the inside of the frame members under the bus?
Looks great BTW!... |
Hey, I appreciate it! I took a good amount of time to blow everything out, and then used some Wurth body protection.
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dobryan
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Joined: March 24, 2006
Posts: 16508
Location: Brookeville, MD
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Thu May 22, 2014 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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I opted for a Dorman rebuild on the power steering pump (Napa part number 81-838) and a Napa pulley (part number 7-3121), opposed to searching out a junkyard one. Keep in mind that there is a specific tool to press the pulley on. It was worth the bit of extra cost for me not to have to source one and have a lifetime warranty. This also aided in paint prep. I decided to go for a Napa brand alternator (part number 1N-3142), which is a new unit and not a rebuild. This has a lifetime warranty as well. Napa is very low hassle when it comes to warranty claims and they have locations just about everywhere. The new style Bostig exhaust bracket does not utilize the hanger that comes on the muffler, so off it came. I decided to go ahead and Jet-Hot coat the rest of the exhaust. This is pretty frivolous as the muffler is a wear item …. but I couldn’t help myself lol. The engine is ready for install at this point.
TIP:
I scan all my receipts and keep them on a thumb drive, in case I have to access them on the road.
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Signalocity
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012
Posts: 573
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| Posted: Fri May 23, 2014 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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This time around has me refreshing some parts off the van that are going to see active duty once again. Burley’s rear disk brake kit conversion parts also showed up, so I needed to install some longer wheel studs, in the machined down hubs. I opted for ones that are longer than what is needed. I will be sticking with steel wheels and I like the utility look that longer studs provide. Another advantage to a longer stud is being able to easily get a grip on it, in the chance that one ever spins.
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