Post engine build - first time driving questions

[palmettofx]

Hey guys, I kinda just want to post mainly because I just got back from driving to/from my parents house in my sand rail, the motor of which I built over the winter. 1968cc stroker with dual kads and engle 110. I'm pretty pleased, but I have some questions because this is my first bug and I want to make sure I continue doing things correctly.

Cooling: It's very mild outside today (75 in SC), and the oil seems to get pretty hot. I have the larger cooling fan, thermostat & vanes, doghouse shroud and doghouse oil cooler. Temps ranged from 210-225 degrees. Is this normal for a sand rail in 70 degree weather? I also just installed a SVDA which was supposed to lower temps but I'm not sure I have it set up 100% correctly yet so I'll revisit that.

Throttle: Throttle is mostly smoothed out now, I am in no way a shining example of carburetor tuning. My concern is on 0-5% throttle the car bucks,vibrates like a giant is shaking it. I have, to my knowledge, the accelerator pumps squirting as they should be, and it's timed to 42-44 degrees at 3k rpm like I read it should be. Is there something I should look for to directly cause this problem? I also have a 6800rpm rotor cap from aircooled.net. I didn't have the issue of the throttle going nuts when I had my old 009 distributor so I'm leaning towards something with the SVDA. Might switch it out with my non cut-out rotor to see if that's the issue.

1st gear: Sometimes has trouble going into first. The transmission came with the car and I didn't do any work to it. I'm assuming the syncros aren't that great - someone confirming this would be cool. The clutch is adjusted to engage and disengage perfectly.

All that aside, everything went smoothly for my first small trip. I got a lot of good looks and only one truck full of teenagers called it a piece of shit - screw them, this thing's awesome and they're probably jealous. I am proud of what I accomplished and it's great to see the time and money I put into the car go off without too many issues.


Here's a pic of the car at my parents house showing my dad.

[75smith]

might want to check calibration on oil sender, seems to be more common for them to read high...course what oil weight? you can drop temps by dropping oil weight

the first 10% of throttle is almost largely dependent on the fact the arms open at exactly the same amount, it is possible your a hair off on your sync, one barrel is feeding the one side more, this is largely magnified with a large cam and motor, with small dual single carbs

not sure on exact SVDA settings, but I think it should be more like 30Degrees at 3K vacuum unplugged and blocked, 44 sounds like a lot, A LOT

trouble getting into gear could be bad tranny or worn parts in the shift linkage
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My 1975 Beetle Build Updated 8-21-12

My engine build

[palmettofx]

Said 30d plugged, and 42-44d with vacuum at 3k according to the info I was sent with the distributor, so idk. I could have it completely hacked, timing is what I'm going to check next. I installed the distributor pointing to #1 at 7 degrees, that's what the 009 required and what I assumed the SVDA required, although I could be completely wrong.

As far as oil goes, it's 30weight.

Is there a way to calibrate it in home or is that something I have to have sent off? I have the dipstick "failsafe" thermostat grounding wire from aircooled and it was only halfway spun around the entire trip. I have my oil temp sending unit at the oil galley pressure thing on the timing pulley side.

[Boolean]

The only way to set ignition is fully advanced. This is important because this is the point where you get big holes in the engine when its off.
Vacuum must always be disconnected when adjusting ignition. You dont have to plug anything.
If you set it to something at idle without checking it fully advanced you are asking for trouble. Dont do that.
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I strive for perfection. Excellence will not be tolerated!
Build thread here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529379

[andy198712]

Boiling water is a steady 100 degrees... Put the sensor in that

Enjoy your new ride!!
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[palmettofx]

I meant to calibrate/adjust the sensor, but yeah I can see what it's at at least by that method.

The only thing I meant about setting at the base was the 7 degree mark on the timing pulley, when the engine was off, and put the distributor in to hit #1. I set it with the vac line off to 30ish, then with the vac at 42-44 at 3k.

I'll revisit it over the weekend, I'm just happy it ran and wasn't crazy problematic. It's my first bug engine build and it was a blast to put together from the ground up.

[74 Thing]

SVDA is to be timed at full advance with the vacuum disconnected. You want to set is somewhere between 28-32 BTDC at full advance. Rev up your engine with the timing light and set it there and then hook up the vacuum. The vacuum adv readings you are getting are not helpful since your engine is not under load when you are sitting there reving it so that is why you set it without the vac line attached.

Straight 30w is way too thick for a new engine. Go down to a 10w30 or maybe even a 5w30 and I bet your oil temps will fall.

[75smith]

[smitty24]

I have had 4 Svda's. They do NOT usually install the same way as the 009. They are usually off unless you pull your drive pinion and rotate, to get the common setting that the 009 uses. I had 2 svda's where #1 was where #2 was on the 009. I had one that was on #3, which was more weird. Yours could be ok if you did it knowing this. Most people don't and then wonder why their distributor/engine has issues.

I also time mine 28-30 with vac plugged. Idle falls anywhere it wants. I have had it fall between 8-12 or so. 3200 rpms, all of mine would range from 36-42 full (vac line on). Even though they state that 42-44 is normal, I personally think it is a little high for most of us.

Whenever I get motors going, it seems like a few weeks of dicking around to get the sync/ linkage/ jetting/ timing dead on to find the sweet spots. Your gearbox issues just complicate diagnosis further.

[HeidiHo]

[andk5591]

Where did you get the kads and who did the vac port? Would like an idle timing measurement with and without vacuum unless you got them from someplace like kaddieshack. My concern is whether your vac port is correct. You should have no change in timing at idle with or without the vac line connected.

Also, have a digital meat thermometer handy with a prob long enough to go in the dipstick and be imersed in oil? If so, use that to double check you oil temp gauge.

You REALLY need to synch the carbs and set the idle mixture. I am doing this on our buggy tomorrow. I installed a new engine over the winter and got it close, but I need to properly dial it in.
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D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[juki48]

engines run hotter until broken in. at least mine did. I saw over 230F the first time I drove it. it was about 90 out. now I see 200 which is pretty normal for a vw. what size oil pump do you have?

Nice buggy btw, looks good!
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Riley

74 Ghia 2276 Turbo MSII Extra
67 Beetle in restoration
Manx style buggy 1600 stock

[palmettofx]

I have the type 4 (I believe) spin-on bracketed pump... it fit right in there so I have no idea.

I do know it's the one that fits the old style cam (aftermarket), although I can't remember if that's dished or flat.

Thanks! It's been a fun project.

[sambabus]

You haven't told us how you drive. High rpms on the freeway can bring up oil temps. 225 is not too hot. I would be more concerned about head temps.
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1971 Westy, 2017cc 78.4 x 90.5 Tims Stage 1 plus 42x37, CB 44IDF's, 135 mains, 175 airs, F111, 50 idles, Engle 110, 30mm, 009, single QP, DD CHT 300*f, VDO oil always 180* Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=541370
1970 convertible bug, 1835cc, single 40IDF, disks.
Symptoms Solved and Fixed http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=551358

[zac_atac44]

Hey man, that is a nice looking rail. Is that a East Coast Sand Rail? Sorry to get off topic but I just bought one.

[palmettofx]

[Cptn. Calzone]

Buy some pringles potato chips and a six pack, eat the pringles empty the can cut about 4" off it and fit it over the carb/airfilter can and place snail on top , then sync.
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71 westfalia
67 912 Porsche Quintilla
67 Single Cab aka my work horse

[palmettofx]

[Max Welton]

[palmettofx]

It's detailed here.