Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

jpjohns · Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:51 am Post subject:

Well I email them and they found the supplier left out some parts in their hardware kits. They are sending the missing parts. Very Happy

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

jpjohns · Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:38 am Post subject:

Got some nice high quality decals in the mail yesterday from an Ebay seller in Germany. These things are nice. Anyone have a map on where they go? A couple of them are obvious but the 3.0 atu? or the 7.5 degree one? I was told that one of the blue decals referring to the door handles goes in the glove box and one on the door jamb?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

jpjohns · Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 8:51 pm Post subject:

Had to fit the pulley today just to see what it looked like.

Came across an issue with the new Shradek oil pump housing. It's too thick and doesn't allow the tang of the oil pump drive gear to engage the cam slot. The depth it goes in was .067", and I really didn't want to take the gear to work and try to press the shaft, measure, press again etc.. so I decided to just keep using the OEM VW pump housing. I mean, why not...its in good shape and using the OEM allows the tang to engage the cam slot .237" which the allowance is .235 - .275. I thought about taking it to work and machining it down but if I do that the inlet and outlet holes won't line up anymore, another reason to stay with OEM.

Distributor shaft is good, teeth are not work or broken so it will be reused.

Bolted the case halves together to measure again and everything still looks ok, no gaps. I'm thinking I got lucky, the engine seems in better shape than I expected.....the body looks to be the headache.

Bores all measure the same at ~2.58 give or take .002

I also polished up the crank myself before measuring using Clatter's emery cloth and rope method. Polished everything up pretty nice and didn't take off much material either. You have to love VW durability.

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

jpjohns · Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:02 pm Post subject:

Got more parts in today...these are the important ones I think. Mahle bearings, KS con rod bearings, new dist gear and dist clamp.

Weird thing I noticed, the Mahle bearings look to be aluminum? They are fairly light in weight and color but the ones that came out of the car are darker and heavy...steel maybe?

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

c21darrel · Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:06 pm Post subject:

old malhes were steel or steel backed. They are not the quality they once were. Silverlines are still steel backed.
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Mr.Duncan · Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:36 am Post subject:

schwim · Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 2:52 pm Post subject:

It is normal to find them with only half the leading cam bearing with a thrust shoulder but you can purchase double thrust cam bearing sets which will give you twice the surface area for the cam to push against.
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jpjohns · Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 7:00 pm Post subject:

While disassembling my 1600 engine I ordered replacement main, con rod, and camshaft bearings. All ordered were German, however I'm not so sure about the quality of the new camshaft bearings. The ones that came out of the car look to be steel and are definitely heavier than the Kolbenschmidt replacements. The Mahle mains and the KS con rod bearings are all lighter as well.

Now, for the record, I was told that the engine was rebuilt about 9 years ago then parked on the owners property and allowed to sit and rot in the elements until I bought it last year. During the teardown everything was measured and looks to be spot on. Al measurements are good and other than the sludge/mud that was in the cylinders everything looks good.

Question is, should I reuse the steel ones that came out since they look good or just go ahead with the new KS aluminum ones. I'm most likely using the new ones anyway, just wanted to know I was better off using them. An engineer I work with says there is no point reusing old parts in an engine that's torn apart, its just weird that the new German ones look cheesier.

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

Mr.Duncan · Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:30 am Post subject:

I would use the NEW bearings.
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jpjohns · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:18 am Post subject:

The entire new KS set weighs as much as the old thrust bearing alone. I'm thinking that can't be very durable.
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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

Mr.Duncan · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:26 am Post subject:

jpjohns · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:35 am Post subject:

you have a point there. I was just shocked at the weight of the KS cam bearings when I took them out of the box. I dropped one and the tiny noise it made when it hit the ground was funny.

The mains are Mahle and they are lightweight as well.

In any case I'm not building a stroker, just a stock 1600 weekend driver so I should be fine.
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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

jpjohns · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 3:42 pm Post subject:

Pistons/cylinders showed up. Cylinder heads are on order.

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

motorhead364 · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 6:06 pm Post subject:

Looking good. What's the latest on the body? Get it blasted yet?
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Clatter · Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:27 pm Post subject:

It likely doesn't really matter if you use non-steel-backed bearings on a stocker.
That said, newer bearings are more likely to be dimensionally inaccurate.

So,
While we always used new bearings in builds back in the day,
Today, you have to be very careful that the bearings are the right size,
And,
If you can clean up some old OG German KS with low miles,
(Using Scotch-Brite),
They are likely to do the trick..

Test-fit all bearings very very carefully regardless.
In the old days, you could trust the bearings to be the right size;
If the case and crank were the right size, you were good to go.
Now,
You have to check that the bearings are the right size,
And that the oil clearance (a.k.a. Fit) is correct.

Many top builders today are altering the size of the crank journals, and the size of the line bore to get things right.
So,
The days of standard line bore sizes is over.

But,
Most of the time you can get lucky.

So check..

Dig?

Nice work... Cool

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jpjohns · Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 6:21 pm Post subject: Re: Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

An amazing artist on Facebook, Darrell Thompson aka Dazzlarock, from the UK drew this pic and inked it in Photoshop the Strato Silver we are planning on painting the car. I think it came out amazing.

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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

jpjohns · Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 6:24 pm Post subject: Re: Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

Funny thing is, I wasn't planning on painting the rims the body color but after seeing Chris's car and this drawing I belive I should!
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-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

slalombuggy · Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 7:18 pm Post subject: Re: Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

Any updates on your build? Man this is a project and a half. Hat's off to ya for doing it.

One thing on your motor. DO NOT use your old oil pump body, they wear out. You will need to press the drive flange out of the gear a bit to get the proper engagement on the cam. On the snap rings for the piston pins. Install them with the sharp side out, you will feel a slightly raised edge from them being stamped, and make sure the open end of the pin either faces the top of the piston or the bottom, if they are in sideways they can collapse and come out. Also Total seal rings are not needed for a street engine and are difficult to seat if the cylinders are not honed correctly. Save your money and run the stock AA rings the work very well. I run them in my big motors at high rpm

brad

jpjohns · Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 3:12 pm Post subject: Re: Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

Been away for awhile, work and all. So we sat down one night and wrote a list of things the car needed, just parts...no labor, and we stopped at around $30k. I mean the body needs a lot lf metal but oddly (or typically) its all underneath. I just actually got the body off and it wasn't as bad as I thought but in any case we decided to cut the rotten pans off and start on a Meyers Manx 2+2 project.

It's funny how a project can turn but we honestly were looking at ALOT, and I mean ALOT of money to restore this car and it just wasn't looking good. We got a bad car to start with and that didn't help any. On the plus side, the chassis is in great shape, minus the floor pans. Once the bug pans are welded in and the chassis is restored and sprayed with Rhino Liner it should be a great base for the Manx.

Removing the body which resulted in literally two small trash cans of rust

This is the chassis as it sits.

By the way, nor sure if you can tell but the PO had, and I'm not kidding, 3 sections of floor pans welded to the bottom one. It's more noticeable on the passenger side pan near the seat rails.
_________________
-Jared

"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member)

Rome · Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:27 pm Post subject: Re: Jared's 1968 Ghia restoration

Now that you've exposed the good, bad and the ugly; have you decided how to proceed? Save/repair the body and find a better IRS chassis to eventually reunite with the body? Or cut up the body for selling off the better parts, or (gulp) scrap?


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