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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 11:50 am    Post subject: Door Clip Alternative Reply with quote

So yesterday my dad and I made new front door panels for my camper. The only drawback was that the wood was resistant to curving to the shape of the door. The original door clips just wouldn't hold it in...driving me nuts! Evil or Very Mad I went over to Orchard Supply today and bought some (rather large) phillips head screws that work rather well. I believe they're something like 16X7/8"...really wide. I think it'll still take some time to convince the wood it wants to curve, but at least the panel's secure now.

Pics'll be up on my website before the evening's out.
-Taylor
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Skim
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the panel is thick enough, you can counter sink the hole and put a screw in it. Then upholster over the screws you wont see them and the clip should have no problem staying in place.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using wood door panels now (it's a camper), so I don't mind there being screws. They're a little large, but I'll just call it the industrial look. Wink

-Taylor
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NorCalNick
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats what i have in my single, wood with screws holding it on. i used finishing screws. the screw has a oval head and it sinks perfectly with the matching washer.
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Hella Bro
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taylor I was thinking off putting wood on my doors as well. In the area that needs to bend I thought I would take some of the thickness out the backside of the panel with an electric sander to allow some flex.
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iubhounds
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found that "door skins", wood, worked very well as not only panels but also the headliner in a 67 bus I had in the 80's.
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tantau
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just installed some 1/8 oak veneer ply on my front doors and cabin... after tracing the shape on the new wood and cutting them out.. I set my circular saw blade about a 1/3 of the thickness of the wood.. then made relief cuts (backside of course) vertically on the panels (1/4-1/2 apart x 10-15 times) where the forward bend is.. being careful not to take the cuts to the edge of the wood.. i also used #6 x 3/4 ss screws and ss recessed washers to attach/dress up the panels... hope that helps... door skins would work great too... I thought about that after the fact..lol O'well the 1/8 should last quite a while...hehe


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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet door panels, Tantau! Very Happy I hadn't thought about relief cuts...I just slapped my door panels on and leaned against them as I screwed in the tough bits. <chuckles> They're on just fine now and I'm sure they'll take the shape okay with time.

-Taylor
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Saggs
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome looking door panels Tantau! Can that 1/8" oak venneer be purchased at most lumber stores? I need to redo the panels on my 67 westy and had trouble finding anything thinner than 1/4". I'm motivated after seeing these!!!
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tantau
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the props... I'd think most stores carry the 1/8 veneer plywood... I got mine from Home Depot... I know there are some specialty wood shops in most towns as well..but I'd check 84, Lowes, or Home Depot; yours will probably be less $ than what I have to pay..hehe ($35 per sh). By the way, it took 2.5 sheets to replace all the interior side panels... these were stained first (natural oak).. then used a satin polyurethane, light sand then apply second coat... I've got no headliner as well...so I think those doorskins (found at HDepot as well) will bend without relief cuts...

Aloha

Ps. Anyone ever heard of someone that sells interior template panels? My firend said JC Whitney used to sell the paper version.. then it was just trace and cut.. (kick panels, etc..)
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't heard of templates short of old original panels. I know Clara Williams of Washington is selling newly-cut masonite panels in the classifieds, but why get those just to make a template? Smile

I too need to redo some of my interior panels...not the roof, thankfully. But I would definitely go back to the place I got my wood (Minton's in Cupertino, CA) to get more.

-Taylor
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Stanw3
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about the skate ramp trick for curving plywood - get it wet on the back side - let it set for a bit - then screw it on while it's a bit plyable. If you don't saok it - it shouldn't warp the wood. ????????
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tantau
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea.. soaking would work too... and being since I build wooden skate ramps and wooden bowls... that's where the experience came into play..hehe If not able to relief cut... the light-med soaking of plyboard would work... I'd only wet the inside portion though... maybe even put on two saw horses and add some wieght in the critical area you want to bend..Smile That's definitely an alternative....

Aloha

Ps. yes I've checked into the maso panels from sunshine... might end up that route.. thx
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm! I'll definitely keep this in mind when I go to restore the rest of my interior some day. There are some areas in the bus where the wood curves more severely than on the front doors! Smile

-Taylor
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to do all the panels on my 67 with the original chrome clips instead of screws. What about a small spot of polyurethane Gorilla glue on the back of the panel next to the clip, clamped overnight? The glue would hold the wood long enough for it to get used to being in the curved position. Access to the inside of the door might be difficult later, so you would definitely want to be sure that you were done with door repairs and adjustments before doing this. Anyway that's my plan.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I wonder if that would work any better or worse than some of the super dried out snotty stuff that's in this set of mirrors I just bought from a guy in Oregon. Wink Kidding. I'd be little inclined to use that stuff just because I know I'd have to get back into the door mechanism someday.

-Taylor
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"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taylor did you get those bad boys apart yet? What holds the glass in?
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only just got them home to my place last night. Haven't had a chance to tear them down yet. I'm thinking right now just the gunk holds the glass in. But I'll let you know what I find.

-Taylor
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Scandell
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought some SEWFINE door panels...and some WW clips. I came get some of them to stay in. Do i need to POUND them in aggressively? Is there a trick I am missing?
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the thickness of the sewfine panels?
The og panels were 2mm thick. That is slightly thinner than 1/8", and it makes a difference.

Some sanding the panels thinner may be in order.
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