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Suggestions for a Daily Driver DP1600
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rgrsapper65
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Joined: April 28, 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 12:04 pm    Post subject: Suggestions for a Daily Driver DP1600 Reply with quote

I am building stock DP1600 for a daily driver. Looking for reliability & mileage over performance & speed. Any suggestions? Building from the ground up.

Cams? Head upgrades? Carbs (planning on using 34 pict3).

Thanks in advance
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd make a stock 1600 DP with a doghouse shroud if reliablilty is the goal. It's the easiest to build too.
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Old Ben Gun
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know you want to stay as stock as possable but you might consider an oil pump upgrade, full flow the case and use an external oil filter.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when you say milage are you saying fuel or overall length of miles you can put on the motor... I'm sure you mean fuel but thought I would ask.

you could add a engle 100 cam and maybe jet the stock carb up to a 132 main . I know you said you aren't looking of power ,but it would offer a bit more which IMO would work the engine a bit less since you wouldn't have to keep your foot in it as much. this is a very mild upgrade and shouldn't effect gas milage.


I would run a good header and quiet muffler in addition to old ben guns tips on the full flow. and electronic igniton upgrade,

take parts to a competent machine shop for a full balance job.... maybe a counter weighted crank.... I know it sounds like straying from stock but not that far off the path and the benifits are there.
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rgrsapper65
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

God I hate being a dumbass...................what exactly does " full flow the case" mean?

I was always told that the doghouse cooler is the way to go for a stock engine in that an external does not offer much extra cooling and that the doghouse does not take alot of the airflow from the heads.
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gophercat
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

full flow refers to adding a full flow oil filter instead of just the oil strainer. You tap the engine case to allow a true oil filter to be added in to help add life to the engine by keeping it cleaner. I agree with balancing if you have the money for it. An extractor type exhaust would also help relieve pressure on the engine letting it run easier. Distributor choices are covered well here.
http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/distributor.htm
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rgrsapper65
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great article, I have been trying to figure out the "flat spot" problem for a while on a stock 1600 I am running.

Back to full flow question..............what is the difference in tapping the case versus just using a full flow oilpump? Advantages/Disadvantages?
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JamesT
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IF you tap the case, there are actual holes drilled into the case and a section of oil passage is blocked off. If you use a full flow oil pump, no modifications need to be done to the case and you don't have to tear the motor right down to nothing to install it. If you are starting from scratch, go with tapping the case, but If you already have a good bottom end, just install a full flow pump. The work equally well, but the special pump is usually more expensive. To tap the case, some people use a full flow pump with only the outlet instead of haveing both outlet and inlet, requiring an inlet tapped into the oil line somewhere else on the case. Unless you are converting to an old Okrasa style filter (and posibly not even then), do not use a bypass filter. For an effective filter, a full flow must be used. The bypass diverts oil from the passage to the bearings to be filtered and then returns it to the sump, instead of a full flow which filters all oil that is going to the bearings and then allows the clean oil to lubricate the bearings. The Okrasa style is more for looks than anything else and does not provide adequate filtering. Type IV engines came with a built in full flow oil filter, which shows that volkswagen thought it was a good Idea, but there is no real place to put one on the type I. When mounting your external filter, make sure that it is in a location where road debris won't damage it and the heat from the engine isn't severe.
Good choice on the PICT-3 carb. I like seeing engines made how volkswagen wanted to see them.
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rgrsapper65
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any issues with using two full filters in series to increase oil capacity? I do not want to use oversize oil sump due to gound clearance
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auslander
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your going to build from the ground up you should build a 1776, it will cost the same as a 1600, be as reliable, more responsive, and keep up with speeds on the highway.
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Loopole
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2004 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drop the centermount carb, duals run so much better, get better mileage, engine runs cooler, and least important more power.
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JamesT
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IT may work, but it's better to put the extra oil on the other side of the pump. If you're worried about ground clearance, you could always do what porsche did, dry sump. Too bad you would have to tear your engine down and use a highly modified case and then have a couple of oil pumps. BUt at lest you'd have that ground clearance
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1600
Fully dynamically balanced
8.5:1 CR
web 86 cam (correctly set rocker geometry and running 911 adjusters)
40x35 valves *Slight* P&P
Dual 40s with 28 vents and 115 mains

This combo has gotten 40 MPG for me before in the past, and will live as long as your car will if taken care of.

Some specs may vary due to your altitude, and gearing.
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