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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:11 pm    Post subject: working with laminate Reply with quote

Hi there,

I'm contemplating doing some cabinet work and need to work with the laminate GoWesty sells. I was just wondering what people recommend for tools and technique to work with laminate. The cabinet laminate has a tendency to exfoliate when drilling or cutting. For cutting I've used an exacto knife and that seems to work fine but drilling is more complicated. How do you glue it to the wood? and more questions...

Thanks

E
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:42 pm    Post subject: laminate Reply with quote

Google up "How to work with laminate" or some variation on that and you'll get pages upon pages of tried and true technique and experience.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In general, you want to cut the material oversized and then use a laminate trimmer (kinda' like a little router) with a flush trim bit to clean up the edges. By all means cut with a box knife if you like. Score the laminate well and snap off. Kind of like cutting glass.

A small hand roller will help you get a good tight bond after application.

As for drilling, just go slow to avoid tearout. You can also put masking tape over the location of the hole then drill through it. Helps sometimes. Also use a smaller pilot hole before drilling bigger holes. The best choice though is to use a good sharp brad point bit. It will pilot true and cut clean.

Hope that helps. PM me if you have any other questions on laminate.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh ya, the gluing part...

Use a contact cement made for laminate. Make sure you have nice clean surfaces first. Spread glue on both surfaces with a brush or small roller. Let it dry to a dull tacky finish. Usually 10-15 min. Then press the surfaces together and use the roller to get it down tight.
Just make sure you have the pieces lined up because once they stick that's it. That's why you cut it oversized!!

Hope that helps.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mad... I have a little Bosch laminate trimmer than you can borrow anytime, I'd also like to reface some dinged up doors, perhaps we can have a laminating evening?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use contact cement to attach laminate to the substrate. Follow the instructions on the cement label. Once applied, a 10-15 minute wait is advised. Lay it down and hammer it out. I have a veneer hammer but you can use a piece of 3/4 w/ a 1/4" radius on its edge, and then the object of the exercise is to get all those air pockets removed. Kinda like window tinting, any trapped air will turn into a bubble. I plan on using a wood veneer to do reface mine before I reinstall them. I'm not to that point yet or I'd post some pics. The previous poster mentioned youtube, there is quite a lot of info on this subject. Hope this helps.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fatboypaul wrote:
Mad... I have a little Bosch laminate trimmer than you can borrow anytime, I'd also like to reface some dinged up doors, perhaps we can have a laminating evening?


Hi Paul,

that sounds like a good plan, but only if we have some beers on the side. I have some extra gray laminate you can use if you need.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, this thread is going where I need it.......been looking for gray Westy interior, but that's proving damn near impossible. Only that brown is plentifull! How far fetched is it to believe that I can make it look like it's post 1986, by changing the color?
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fairweather
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely do the cut larger/trim with a router method, it is the only way to get those nice crisp edges.

After you have applied glue to both surfaces lay some dowels (or similar) down on the board (make sure adhesive has tacked up) spaced close enough to keep the laminate from touching when you lay it on top. Then when you have it positioned right start removing the dowels one by one.

Any larger lumber supply place will have a somewhat infinite selection of laminates to choose from.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pachec wrote:
Alright, this thread is going where I need it.......been looking for gray Westy interior, but that's proving damn near impossible. Only that brown is plentifull! How far fetched is it to believe that I can make it look like it's post 1986, by changing the color?


you can do it but you will need to also replace the molding and paint the metal and plastic pieces like the hinges and plastic cabinet handles. The aftermarket T molding that is available comes in a lighter gray color, it won't look totally stock but way better than before.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pachec wrote:
Alright, this thread is going where I need it.......been looking for gray Westy interior, but that's proving damn near impossible. Only that brown is plentifull! How far fetched is it to believe that I can make it look like it's post 1986, by changing the color?


Yup. Can do. It's a lot of work but looks good when done. I re-covered an upper rear cabinet to replace the one the PO threw out. Looks perfect. I just painted the t-moulding as a short term fix but will replace it when it starts to look bad. The worst part will likely be getting all the parts out to work on them, and getting the old laminate off. If you were to just go over the top of the old stuff the moldings would likely not cover the edges anymore.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it....thanks for your replies. I'm feeling a little more heroic now, but must wait for warmer weather.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you working with woodgrain or formica or prepreg or tedlar or what? there's madness to each.
depending on your sunlight exposure, most contact cements these days turn to melted gum when exposed to heat or sunlight. that turned me away from installing headliners in the mid nineties.
I worked in the wood shop at both douglas aircraft and gulfstream in the nineties. built cabinets and all interior trim in commrecial and military aircraft. kc10, kc11, c17 globemaster, dc10, dc9, md80, md11, g2, g3, g4
g5 for harrison ford. forest green wool and westfalian black oak.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've recently finished a porta-potty cabinet using GoWesty's laminate and edge trimming (gray). The edge trimming is nowhere near close to the original Westfalia (in shape and color) but it would still make the cabinet look good.

I'd love to be able to source some Westfalia-like edge trimming, anybody got any pointers ?

I second all the recommendations so far: use a scoring knife, cut oversize, use a small trim router to trim the laminate, and use dowels to present the laminate on top of the surface to glue. If you'll also install the edge trimming, you'll need a plunge-router with a cutting bit to cut the channel in the wood edge, very easy to do.

Mistakes that I made ?

1 - I built the cabinet completely before buying the laminate and trimming (later dismantled it and glued laminate), and used 1/2 birch plywood to make it strong and light. However, the edge trimming that GoWesty sells is for 3/4 inch, so I ended up having to flush cut the plastic after installing it. It works, but I'm not thrilled with the results (will probably redo the cabinet next winter with 3/4, I'm a perfectionist).

2 - I laminated the outside and painted the inside. Outside looks fabulous, inside not so. If money were not an objection, I'd probably laminate both sides inside and out.

3 - Initially I used pocket holes for the assembly, however, I think that 1/2 plywood didn't provide enough rigidity, so I had to supplement it with L-brackets. In hindsight, I'll use L-brackets for my next cabinet (lot stronger and faster)

4 - I had to sell my tablesaw during my last move, so I use a jigsaw for making all the cuts. Edges are not perfectly straights, and still shows up even with the edge trimming. If you can, use a tablesaw for the main cuts (I know I'll use one if I redo the potty cabinet next winter)

I like woodworking, and it was very satisfying to be able to create the small cabinet.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

great info, thanks

about sourcing some Westfalia-like edge trimming, I've gone beyond, looked at several german suppliers and they all have the one you mention, not the original Westfalia one


pnwkayaker wrote:
I've recently finished a porta-potty cabinet using GoWesty's laminate and edge trimming (gray). The edge trimming is nowhere near close to the original Westfalia (in shape and color) but it would still make the cabinet look good.

I'd love to be able to source some Westfalia-like edge trimming, anybody got any pointers ?

I second all the recommendations so far: use a scoring knife, cut oversize, use a small trim router to trim the laminate, and use dowels to present the laminate on top of the surface to glue. If you'll also install the edge trimming, you'll need a plunge-router with a cutting bit to cut the channel in the wood edge, very easy to do.

Mistakes that I made ?

1 - I built the cabinet completely before buying the laminate and trimming (later dismantled it and glued laminate), and used 1/2 birch plywood to make it strong and light. However, the edge trimming that GoWesty sells is for 3/4 inch, so I ended up having to flush cut the plastic after installing it. It works, but I'm not thrilled with the results (will probably redo the cabinet next winter with 3/4, I'm a perfectionist).

2 - I laminated the outside and painted the inside. Outside looks fabulous, inside not so. If money were not an objection, I'd probably laminate both sides inside and out.

3 - Initially I used pocket holes for the assembly, however, I think that 1/2 plywood didn't provide enough rigidity, so I had to supplement it with L-brackets. In hindsight, I'll use L-brackets for my next cabinet (lot stronger and faster)

4 - I had to sell my tablesaw during my last move, so I use a jigsaw for making all the cuts. Edges are not perfectly straights, and still shows up even with the edge trimming. If you can, use a tablesaw for the main cuts (I know I'll use one if I redo the potty cabinet next winter)

I like woodworking, and it was very satisfying to be able to create the small cabinet.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was a post a while back that listed the color laminate that was the exact match for the interior. You don't need to order it from GW and pay their shiping. You can get the same stuff from your local Lowes or Home Depot. I have the color name somewhere, I just need to find it.

Found it:

It is Formica product Number 927-58. The name of the colour is "Folkstone" and it is in the matte finish. You can order it through any Home Despot.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PDXWesty wrote:
There was a post a while back that listed the color laminate that was the exact match for the interior. You don't need to order it from GW and pay their shiping. You can get the same stuff from your local Lowes or Home Depot. I have the color name somewhere, I just need to find it.

Found it:

It is Formica product Number 927-58. The name of the colour is "Folkstone" and it is in the matte finish. You can order it through any Home Despot.


yes, I posted this info a while ago in the new fridge thread. The gray laminate is Pionite F39 SG204 N Mercury.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, all the moldings are available in europe including the cabinet door ones. I've wanted to get some for awhile but the shipping is to much for just a small order. Maybe someone wants to put together a group buy?

Available here:http://www.reimo.com/en/61000-wassert_vw_t2_45l_4_04/
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fairweather wrote:


After you have applied glue to both surfaces lay some dowels (or similar) down on the board (make sure adhesive has tacked up) spaced close enough to keep the laminate from touching when you lay it on top. Then when you have it positioned right start removing the dowels one by one.



A cheap alternative to dowels is the old laminate installers trick if using scrap window blind slats...........been there, done that and it works great.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sc-surfer wrote:
Actually, all the moldings are available in europe including the cabinet door ones. I've wanted to get some for awhile but the shipping is to much for just a small order. Maybe someone wants to put together a group buy?

Available here:http://www.reimo.com/en/61000-wassert_vw_t2_45l_4_04/


I could be wrong but I think I looked at these too and they are the right shape but still the lighter gray color.

Do you have a sample of this molding?
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