New pulley question

[crvc]

I'm replacing the short block because of constant oil leaks. Every client comments on the leaks while telling me how they had a bug back in college.

I put in a degree pulley last year. When I put it in the replacement block it causes drag. That is, the flywheel won't turn by hand. Any idea why? I can't see any difference between the degree pulley and the three stock pulleys I've got. It slides onto the crankshaft easily while the older pulleys have to be tapped in. The degree pulley turns easily until I add the nut and washer.

I spend all weekend putting the block together with new bearings. Not done yet and had to ride a bike to work today.

Someone in a car yelled, "Where's the bug?" as I was walking the bike up a steep hill. Grrrr.

TIA,

crvc

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Does it drag at all with stock pulleys?

If not.. something is wrong with the degree pulley.

Bottoming out on the case, causing the crank trust (end play) to tighten up.

Check the end play after you sung up the pulley.. if end play (thrust) is gone.. something is out of whack..

Start looking and measuring....

.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
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Usually and often edited

[crvc]

No, I had it in the bug for several months. It's just now that I'm building a replacement engine that the pulley doesn't fit. I'll check end play tonight.

Thanks,

crvc

[2nd67]

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

[crvc]

The oil pump bolt heads stick out too far under the sheetmetal, sandwiching the metal between the bolt heads and backside of the pulley causing drag. I cut down an older oil slinger to fit behind the pulley, acting as a washer. My micrometer says it's about 1/32" thickness. That helped but I worry as the running engine heats up it could cause more dragging.

For now I put an older pulley back on as I try to figure out what to do with the degree pulley.

crvc

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

Measure and transfer the degree marks over to the stock pulley.
Add notches to the stock pulley at the timing locations you use.. or want.

I add notches and measure from the stock 0 TDC, > 10, 20, and 30.. thats about all I need..

Scrap the degree pulley... or keep it for reference...

Of course ....You could trim down the oil pump studs too...

Adding a second slinger.. as a shim.. is pure hack..

.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[crvc]

IT's still on the bench. I forgot the old motor has 'flattish' bolt heads, about half the thickness of the stock bolts. If I use these and they work I can pull the homemade "Hack" out.

The old stock pulley has marks for bTDC, TDC, 7.5 aTDC... It's just not pretty like the degree pulley.

crvc

[crvc]

I saw the allen-head bolts are the same length as the 13mm-head bolts while being half the thickness.

By using the smaller allen-head bolts and grinding some metal off the pump so it's level with the upper bolt heads I should have room use the degree pulley and also remove the homemade washer.

Thanks for the help,

crvc