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Window Tinting on Westfalia
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IoWesty
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 3:17 pm    Post subject: Window Tinting on Westfalia Reply with quote

Has anyone tinted the windows on their Westfalia's? What products work best and are easiest for do-it-yourselfers?
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TommyBoyGomes
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once I got to the driver's side window that's up against the cabinet behind the bench seat and realized how difficult it was going to be to align the tint accurately back there, I decided to pay someone to do it Smile
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Dampcamper
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the Westy gutted so tinted the rearmost windows on both sides, now I'm kind of thinking I should have just let the curtains do the job but that big old cabinet is in the way so the tinting stays. We have a regional plastics chain that sells window tinting and has instructions available. They aren't in Iowa but I'm sure somebody else sells tinting retail out your way.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All tints work pretty much the same as far as application, just don't buy cheap film, it will turn purple after a few years. 3M is one of the best, and if you want high-tech film, their new ceramic stuff is pretty interesting; almost 100% UV blocking, on all tint levels, so you don't have to go limo black to get full heat rejection.
Be aware also that going dark on the back windows seriously impairs rear vision at night, if you have to negotiate a driveway backing up, upgrade your reverse lights or install a back-up camera.
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noganav
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try a search for the word 'tint'. Wink
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncroincity wrote:
...3M is one of the best, and if you want high-tech film, their new ceramic stuff is pretty interesting; almost 100% UV blocking, on all tint levels, so you don't have to go limo black to get full heat rejection...


The 3M ceramic is what I went with -- an impressive drop in heat without (as noted) having to have dark windows. Was able to use the same % tint all around and still be legal.

I paid to have it done just because I see so many botched DIY tints. I sure some can get good results the first time they try but I seriously doubted that would be my experience.

BTW, they removed the window by the closet to put the tint on -- I didn't want a half-tinted window there and doubted even the pros could do a good job of squeezing in there are getting the tint on well.
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Vinzanto
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

General question here up for grabs on the topic of tinting; does all tint become purple over the years (time/sun/elements) or is that just a sign of low quality tint? I've heard arguments in both directions.
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Syncroincity
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vinzanto wrote:
General question here up for grabs on the topic of tinting; does all tint become purple over the years (time/sun/elements) or is that just a sign of low quality tint? I've heard arguments in both directions.


Definitely not, just the stuff you get in autoparts stores for $30 a roll. Any pro installation uses good film, and you can also buy that for DIY projects. I'm still in touch with an old car of mine that was tinted 15 years ago at a local shop, looks brand new.

Another key to DIY success is to use 2 pieces on the rear window; too large a sheet and you'll end up with bubbles popping up in short order. There are a couple of good instructionals on Youtube.
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chojinchef
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Save yourself the aggravation and pay a professional to do it.

$325 is what I ended up paying for all but windshield and I got great results. Pleased with level of tint (not too dark) and they stand behind it with a no bubble guarantee.
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HoustonPhotog
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im getting mine done on Saturday and yes. the window behind the closet is my biggest concern.

my main reason for tint is to fight off some of this Texas heat and let my AC work a bit more efficiently
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ryecatcher
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an easy way to deal with the window behind the cabinet: punch out the backing to the cabinet (the part facing the window). It's held on by staples, flimsy, and you end up gaining a few precious inches. It allows access to the window for tinting, and once it's tinted you can't see inside the closet.
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HoustonPhotog
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ryecatcher wrote:
Here's an easy way to deal with the window behind the cabinet: punch out the backing to the cabinet (the part facing the window). It's held on by staples, flimsy, and you end up gaining a few precious inches. It allows access to the window for tinting, and once it's tinted you can't see inside the closet.


Yea this is my plan... just in case. I have a spare fridge cabinet door that I've been meaning to install into the rear closet for more access so I want to get it install Friday and pop out the back closet panel in time for the tint guy on saturday.
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greenraVR6
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vinzanto wrote:
General question here up for grabs on the topic of tinting; does all tint become purple over the years (time/sun/elements) or is that just a sign of low quality tint? I've heard arguments in both directions.


Seems to me most of the crappy purple and bubbled tint jobs are from DIY installs. Although I'm a little lost on what happened with the '95 Jetta I just bought. All the windows are tinted and the sides look great, but the rear window is more hazy than bubbly and everything behind me is a blur. Very annoying and needs to be re-done or just removed all together.
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TheRealSean
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a tint myself for $40 with the mirror reflective screen from home depot. Noone can see in and it drastically reduces heat. If it bubbles in a few years I will do it again with the same material for $40. took a few hours and a few beers on a saturday
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adamjjohn203
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have suntek 18% professionally done. Pulled the windows so the tint goes all the way to the edge...took the opportunity to replace the seals with non trim ones and added vented rear windows at the same time.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always used 3M window film and after 8 years in my current bus it still looks good and hasn't had any noticeable color degradation. If you want to save some money you can certainly do it yourself. I paid for the first window tint install 30 years ago. When I saw how it was done I did the next 3 vehicles myself. (You might want to check on your DMV's websites to see how dark a film you can use. Here in MA I had to go with a 35% tint.) On my current bus I was doing new seals anyway so I popped out the windows. You can apply the tint with the windows in place but it's just harder to trim where the film meets the seal when you're done. I've done it both ways. The key is getting the windows squeaky clean with glass cleaner and razor blades. Then apply the film after spraying the glass with water. Use a piece of film bigger than required since you'll be trimming it when you are done. I use plastic Bondo applicators to squeegee out all the water bubbles and stick down the film. Start in the middle and work the water bubbles towards the edges and dry the water with a paper towel. After each window dries use a razor blade to trim the edges then reinstall if you're using new seals. If you are installing the film without removing the glass you can trim the film at the rubber seal using an Exacto knife or razor blade. There is a knack to applying window film so I recommend you practice the technique first. My son installed window tint is his van last year after spending some time applying/re-applying tint to a spare window I had laying around. One word of caution, after installing the tint you should only use glass cleaner without ammonia. I'm told that the plastic film is degraded by cleaning products with ammonia.

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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeHill wrote:
...One word of caution, after installing the tint you should only use glass cleaner without ammonia. I'm told that the plastic film is degraded by cleaning products with ammonia...


Good point. I use Sprayway -- available at Costco and other fine stores.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Ahwahnee"]
MikeHill wrote:
...One word of caution, after installing the tint you should only use glass cleaner without ammonia. I'm told that the plastic film is degraded by cleaning products with ammonia...


Good point. I use Sprayway -- available at Costco and other fine stores.[/quote

X2 - Pro shop that did mine said same thing
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IoWesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2014 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all of the tips. I think I'll try this myself, as the cost of having a professional do the job exceeds what I paid for the van. Very Happy
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IoWesty
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More pictures, please. Thanks.
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