Horn not working

[JeffsThing]

I have read many posts on here regarding the not working horns. This may be a stupid question but I have to ask. When doing all the tests checking to see if there is current on the black and yellow wire down at the horn do you have to have the key on? I used a spring clamp to hold the horn piece on the steering wheel down while I did the checking and there is no power when the key is off but there is power, on both terminals, when the key is on. I replaced the horn because the one that was in the car tested bad when just hooked up to the battery directly. The fuse is good and when the key is on it also has power on both sides with the fuse in place. The new horn worked when hooked directly to the battery. I cleaned all the terminals in the steering horn part, both the copper in the removable horn part and the bolt heads that are in the steering wheel. I also tried to connect the wire that attaches to the horn part to the center nut that holds the steering wheel on but nothing. I cannot find where the steering column ground is either. Does anyone have a picture of where I am supposed to be looking? I would really like to fix this seemingly simple problem instead of the horn button on the dash crap. I know I am missing something very simple so please be kind. I have a 73 Thing/type 181 Thanks

[Riffster]

As I recall, there's a ground "jumper" wire over the rubber disc at the bottom of the steering column to get connectivity - you might check to make sure that's in place. (You'll probably have to take out the gas tank to get at it.)

-Larry

[JeffsThing]

I checked and the braided wire is attached joining each half of the rag joint. I did not test the ground yet but it is there.

[63ziggy]

my Thing horn is not factory wired.

do recall when I finished restoration on a 60 beetle, there was a ground wire connect to the steering tube up under the fuel tank. there was a tab on the underside of the steering tube that exits through the front footwall.

not sure if that helps you

[mondshine]

The black/yellow wire should read +12V at the horn whenever the ignition is switched on. Basically, the black/yellow wire runs from the fuse (#2) to the horn. The circuit is completed on the ground side to beep the horn.
If you look behind (actually in front of) the speedometer, there's an opening where the wiring harnesses for the wiper, turn signal, and ignition switches come through to their connection points below the steering wheel. One of those harnesses will have a brown wire which will be connected to ground when the horn button is pressed. That wire is connected to the brown wire from the horn itself. I think the brown wire that's connected to the horn is in the large harness coming through the left front corner behind the left side dash panel.
The horn should beep when you touch this wire to ground (with the ignition switched on).
Because the steering column is isolated from the body by a rubber coupler, there's a jumper wire across the rubber coupler to ground the steering column.
Hope that helps, good luck, Mondshine

[MRJEL]

http://www.amazon.com/Broke-Watch-Finger-Bumper-Sticker/dp/B004N1TPBM

[NOVA Airhead]

[JeffsThing]

Well Mondshine thank you so much for your reply. And Nova your suggestion was spot on. I put a jumper from the brown wire on the horn to the inside bolt on the rubber joint and bingo! What a wimpy horn but I now know how to fix the problem. Will be a pain in the A to get to but hey isn't everything on this car? Now I need to look into getting a horn that will actually be able to be heard.
Thanks to all for your replies and I hope to be able to help someone else in the future.

[MRJEL]

You'll see a little screw like thing sticking out of the back of the horn that looks like it has no use at all in being there. That is a "tuner" and will change the sound. It limits the vibrations to get the proper tone.

Be sure though that you are getting a full 12 volts to the unit, and a full ground as well.

[7T3Thing]

Trying to get a working horn in my son's '73. Key on, no horn. Per the wiring diagram, 12V at terminal #2 from left hand of fuse strip. Out at horn, have roughly 1.5V at post A to the frame (as ground). Zero V to other post (B).

I tried to determine if the wire coming off #2 was either horn wire but it was inconclusive, as wire was painted during PO repaint, of course yellow. At fuse strip, color is roughly black with a stripe (as shown on wiring diagram) - just above red line in photo.

Any ideas? I'm trying to avoid running a separate set of wires and a toggle switch, but I need it to pass inspection soon.
When I was under the gas tank, I feel like I successfully replaced the ragjoint jumper.
Why would the voltage be weak?
I need to try again tomorrow with another (different) meter, hoping the leads weren't the issue.

Also - where does one get this style fuse?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
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Working with my son on his 1973 Thing

[NOVA Airhead]

See if this helps you track the problem down:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm
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Ghia Owner Emeritus

[7T3Thing]

Still working on this horn issue.
Found one wire, presumed to be the ground, that, using my meter, has continuity to ground. Took the horn cover off the steering wheel, and it has continuity to the four posts, but not the small wire attached to the cover.
With power this same wire has 12V on it. Does that make sense? I thought the wire through the column was ground. This wire was located on post A as drawn above. The B post has no voltage and did not have continuity to ground.
_________________
Working with my son on his 1973 Thing

[NOVA Airhead]

You may find this helpful:

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_12_00/wired_12_00.htm
_________________
Ghia Owner Emeritus