The life of a daily driven 68' RHD Devon camper.

[LivinInnaVWBus]

Hello again Samba!
I've been keeping pretty busy with traveling and the LivininnaVWBus life so I haven't had the opportunity for an update, though there has been some great progress.
I haven't dug into my current living situations previously, so let's touch on that before I proceed. Since I left New Orleans just over a year and a half ago, I've called the Mid-West (where I grew up) my home again. As of the beginning of last winter, I was living in a dormant 73' Riviera I had while my 68' Devon remained my driver. A couple of months ago I sold the Riviera and transferred my living quarters to the 68'. Currently, I am plugged in (with access to a bathroom/shower) and selling the remainder of my belongings. My goal is to be off-grid and somewhere far from winter by November or December, these progress posts are with that end goal in mind.
There is little stopping me from the move at this point, it wouldn't be as comfortable as I'm planning but it would be doable.
The essential to-do list before I move goes something like...

- Ball joints (NOS bjs & WW torsion seals are in hand. I just took the torsions out of a spare beam I had, removed the old ones and had them powder coated. Installing the ball joints and torsion assemblies are still pending)

- Tires (In hand as well with freshly powder coated wheels. Just need to get two of them mounted then installed on the bus)

- Spare tires & mount (2 spares in hand, I sold my welding supplies so I'm going to commission out the fabbing of a mount to go on the front of my hurst bumper, with luck I can have both spares mounted one in front of the other)

- Shocks (I installed some NOS USA made shocks awhile back but they aren't taking the weight well and pitching the rear tires, KONIs seem to be in my future)

- Tie rods (Right side was replaced by an autozone unit, that will be pulled and both will be replaced with Italian made pieces I picked up from BusDepot)

- Beam leaf packs (I've got a spare 68' beam I'm using for parts, these will be installed when the new bjs are)

- Steering damper (In hand, waiting for install)

- Alignment!

- Left side CV assembly (Currently is an autozone unit which will be replaced with German CVs on the original shaft. The shaft has been powder coated and prepped, I just need to buy one more joint to assemble and install it - the right side has already been done)

- Engine (Currently the bus wears the 1500sp which was built in the prior posts, this engine was only meant for to keep me moving until I build my 1679. The 1679 has been race spec balanced by NSRacing - 88mm thick wall machine-in head P&C kit, 69mm DPR crank, CB 5.4 Unitech rods, CB USA straight cut gears, CB Ultralight lifters, 1:1:1 CB Super Stock Rocker assemblies, Aluminum PRs, Fluff & Buff SP heads w/ SS valves by Brothers, CB 2229 fuel economy cam - 260 adv dur - 216 dur @ .050 - .301 lift @ cam .328 lift w/1:1:1, dual Weber 34s, Melling 21mm oil pump)

- Roof (IT LEAKS BADLY! I'm working with a local metal artist to make a stainless steel high roof to take the place of the pop top. I've met with him a couple of times to draw up plans and will be making my way to his place Weds to start bending pipe)

- Oven/Stove, Fridge, Toilet and Heat (I've got a Grape Solar GLACIER 1.1, CampChef camp oven/stove, Dickinson P-12,000 propane fireplace and a Nature's Head composting toilet to be installed - I just need to make the cabinetry)

- Auxiliary Battery (Solenoid came the other day, now I just need to wire it up and put one of my spare batteries in place)

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It seems like a lot and it is, but I'm well underway with most of these and hopeful, wish me luck!

The progress I've made since my last post...
- Removed torsion arms from spare beam, removed ball joints, had powder coated and ready for BJ install.

- Located NOS German Glyco main and rod bearings for 1679

- Ordered and received Joe Gibbs Driven assembly grease and Three Bond 1211 engine sealant for engine

- Put 50% payment on a custom USA made stainless TRUE merged header with a phat boy. Similar to this, but stainless...

- Ordered and received USA made Cole Hersee 85A solenoid for AUX battery http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/169/24117/

- 6 period correct 14"x5" wheel powder coated. 2 have my spare/offroad drive tires mounted, 2 have my street tires mounted and 2 that will have my other street tires mounted shortly. Using Dynabead balancing beads.

- Ordered and received 3 NOS 40hp style USA made fuel pumps - 1 for the 1679 and 2 for roadside repair back ups.

- Sold my 67' beetle, the second ACVW I ever owned. I'm going to miss this guy...

- Started fabbing new full width bed brackets made of 1/4" 304 stainless, modeled after the 73' Riviera bed I've got installed now.

- Unrelated to anything above, but I finalized a deal with Todd who makes the TR-1 aluminum cases - http://precisionalloy.com/. I'll be trading him this valve grinder - http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612558&highlight=eccentric - for one of his cases. It'll probably end up being a bulletproof 2074, but I won't be collecting parts for a long time. It's being machined for 94 pistons, definitely going to use thick wall 92s.

On the Livininna front...

While I was driving to find Mexican baja blankets to make into curtains, I spotted this ridiculously cool old camper van conversion with a high roof. No way in hell I was letting them get away without me taking a peek, so I chased it down until they realized they weren't going to shake me. Before they hopped out, it was clear I was in for an interesting conversation. From the drivers seat came an older gentleman, no taller than 5'5 with a dread locked beard, followed by his wife who barely came up to his shoulder. We talked for nearly an hour and I'm pretty sure they convinced me to meet up with them at a nudist colony. Words Alan reiterated to me, "hey man, you only live once, right?"

A few days later I decided to take advantage of my day off and make a small trip to visit a friend I hadn't seen in a bit. We ended up hanging in a small historic town outside of a privately owned coffee shop pounding caffeine, making music and friends for a few hours. When the dog needed a walk, I strolled around the back of the building and stumbled across two campers with very similar paint to my own! What are the chances.

Until next time!

[wcfvw69]

Nice update post.

I'm curious what brand your NOS ball joints are? You have a picture by chance?
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
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[LivinInnaVWBus]

[Yarkle]

Before you put the torsion arms back on, dont forget the seals...dont forget the seals..dont forget the seals.

I only reminded my self twice, and I still FORGOT to put on the damn seals, then frantically pounded 3 of the four arms back out POSITIVE i had pushed three sets of needle bearings too far into the tube.

My build thread has a few helpful hints on it , and i think i posted some in wcfvw69 's thread
_________________
Tilda the Mustard Tigress 1973 Squareback (o'''^'''o)

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=771024&highlight=

[wcfvw69]

[LivinInnaVWBus]

This will be brief, but you'll get the point.
First, awesomness.

Second, F*CK CHINA. Replacing Chinese garbage with more Chinese garbage, clearly not by choice but necessity. Against better judgement, I gave the empi glass filter a chance since I acquired one somewhere down the line and had it on the shelf.
Apparently vibration caused the threads to back out/strip and the chrome caps separated causing my fuel tank to empty rather quickly. I didn't notice until the next morning when I woke up with the smell of raw gasoline inside the bus.
With the fuel filter mounted on the side of the trans, I experienced vapor lock so I was forced to move the filter into the engine bay. I placed it as far away from the engine as possible, but it still didn't stop gas from dripping on hot cylinder tins. This is the closest I've ever come to an engine fire and holy hell did I learn my lesson.

On a much more positive note... DADDY GOT A NEW PAIR OF SHOES! (...but still has the same shitty hair cut)
750-14 Firestone Blackwall biasply tires mounted on 14x5" wheels, sandblasted and powder coated CLEAR, wearing stainless steel hubcaps with Dynabead balancing beads inside.

While mounting them, the condition of my doglegs became much more apparent. Ouch, check out the pile on the ground.

Some of you will really enjoy this, my spare/off road/winter drive tires are STA Super Traxions. I'll have one mounted on the front and the other likely on the rear.

Stainless for the bed brackets has been cut and roughly ground, I'll be drilling the holes and finish sanding the pieces shortly.

Finally getting started on making the stainless high roof. 3 days of work in, we've got the front arch and corners made. The front corners were bent using a 3" radius die, the rears will be using a 6". It is 3/4 18g stainless which had to be filled with packed down wet sand to stop from creasing. The fella in the photos is a metal artist friend of mine who does some REALLY beautiful and phenomenal crafting.

I'll be ending this post with... you guessed it... a dirty hippy girl playing an acoustic percussion instrument in the back of a bus. I'm certain she was singing smoke two joints.

[hoagy86]

Sweet update been following your journey but haven't ever posted. Beautiful bus, beautiful dog and man those wheels look Killer happy busin

[Abscate]

[Yarkle]

[MikeAZOBrien]

Hi,

In an earlier post about CV joints and spring washers, you mentioned: "7 of the plates which connect two of the CV bolts and share the clamping force load," Did you just leave these off and use the McMaster washers? If so, any issues so far?
Thanks, and thanks for all the posting - really great stuff in this thread.

[LivinInnaVWBus]

Thanks for the praises guys!

Does anyone happen to know where I can get a 68' only mustache bar? It looks like this - https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/749489.jpg

MikeAZ; The drivers side which has the Lobro joints is currently missing just one of those plates however the pass side which has the Chinese autozone assembly has none. The Chinese assembly has raised portions stamped into the boot base which will not allow the plates to be installed - this one will be changed to quality parts shortly. I used the correct serrated conical washers on the drivers side and probably wavy washers on the Chinese axle, but I'm not 100% on that. Both are holding up fine with no issues and plenty of miles logged but I did torque them a hair above spec, probably just shy of 30ft lbs.

[Yarkle]

BUMMER! moustache bar... I saw one at the Acton VW show in august, but i had no idea what it was.

I thought it was some homemade rig.

some of the guys who sell stuff there sell stuff at our swap in October (the 18th). If you havent found oen by then, PM me with your digits and if i see it again Ill see if its something we can work out?
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Tilda the Mustard Tigress 1973 Squareback (o'''^'''o)

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=771024&highlight=

[LivinInnaVWBus]

UPDATES!

First and foremost, I took a 600+ mile trip with a female friend of mine to Maquoketa Caves State Park in Iowa. A quick get away, but well needed and deserved. We spent an entire day wandering caves and getting lost in the forest with the dog in tow. $11 camping with showers and awesome campground company, couldn't have been better.

Once we got back home, it was time to get dirty.
It was hot and there were to many steep hills to count, the blow by from honing out the cylinders became much more evident during this trip. I'll be limping the bus wherever I need to go until the 1679 is in but for that, I'm still waiting on some parts so I got to working on my front suspension. Add me on Instagram @ LivininnaVWBus and there is a video posted of the ball joint play along with other things not posted here.

And this is why my front is sagging...
No worries! I ordered Genuine Volkswagen leaf packs from Vintage V-Dubs for $200 for the set along with their HD off road grub screws. If anyone needs them, I've got some good OE German leaf packs listed in the classified. I'll be restoring the beam next year and figured I might as well go with all new parts instead.

New Sachs steering stabilizer, Febi/Bilstein(German) drag link, Meyle(German) adjustable tie rod and an Ocap(Italian) non-adjustable tie rod. I do have matching tie rods to use but I wanted to test both brands side by side together, if I have issues with either, you guys will be the first to know.
The NOS ball joints are pressed into the torsion arms awaiting the arrival of the leaf packs which should be here by next weekend. I've got an Addco USA made HD front sway bar on it's way and I'll be ordering Koni shocks all around the next pay check.

Meyle on the left, Ocap on the right. Quality seems very similar and they 'feel' the same.

And finally, the easiest and most mechanically rewarding upgrade I've ever done. With removal, clean up and installation included - 25 mins. Installation was 10.
F*ck yes Butty's Bits.

[secretsubmariner]

I love your dog.

the Nature shots are amazing.

Keep it up dude! I'm checkin' out that instagram right now.
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI

[Yarkle]

sweet! check the weld busler thread for tips on how to install the leaf packs if you dont already have them in.
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Tilda the Mustard Tigress 1973 Squareback (o'''^'''o)

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=771024&highlight=

[LivinInnaVWBus]

Thanks guys! And Yarkle, I checked out your thread and that will help TREMENDOUSLY.

Yesterday was a relaxed and meditative work day, wiring in the auxiliary battery. Very easy... too easy. That being said, check my work? The wiring diagram is for a relay but I used a solenoid, my guess would be the wiring is the same.

What I used;
A spare battery I had sitting around. (Will be replaced by a proper battery sooner or later)

USA made 8g auto wire - http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Premium-Automotive-Wire/758464/10002/-1

USA made ColeHersee 24117 12V Continuous Duty SPST Solenoid - http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/169/24117/

T-connector plug pulled from a beetle

An old universal 2' battery ground cable I put a new end on

This wiring diagram

The blue wire will be changed to something better before I run it.
Yes... I know the mounting location is odd but I didn't have to drill a single hole for the installation. One of the POs left me with plenty to chose from and honestly, I dig where it ended up.

[highdesertdeluxe]

Diggin' the thread. I've read every word so far! Congrats on all your progress. Hope you succeed in escaping the winter climes. It seems to be upon us early here in the southwest. I've been pouring through the forums to glean and info I can to repair my bus, and you are an inspiration to me and surely others. Happy trails to you!
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Palmdale transplant
Looking for local splitty owners
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[LivinInnaVWBus]

highdesertdeluxe, thank you for the praises! You've reminded me to take some time for an update.
Unfortunately I have not made it out of winter's reach just yet. Close, but still very far away so I've had to alter my plans.
At this point, I need to make sure my bus is as solid as possible because I will likely be living off of savings once I make it out of the midwest - I'm shooting for $20 a day including gas so buying repair parts won't be much of an option.
Currently, my bus has been on jack stands receiving a front end rebuild since I got back from Iowa about 5 weeks ago. Waiting on parts has me twiddling my thumbs and riding my bike to work in 30-50 degree weather.

Progress? Yea, I've got some of that too. The bus now wears new genuine VW of Brazil torsion leaf packs, HD USA made grub screws, USA made torsion caps(all three sourced from Vintage V-Dubs), NOS ball joints fitted into powder coated(clear) torsion arms, Wolfsburg West torsion arm seals and a USA made Addco HD front sway bar on top of the new tie rods, drag link and steering damper previously mentioned. The NOS USA made shocks I installed awhile back didn't come off in one piece and the rubber looks like it was degrading anyways so I just ordered some VWOB front shocks, two front wheel bearing kits and two new front brake hoses from BD - The Konis will have to wait for next year, I'm too broke for that luxury at this time.

Genuine VW of Brazil torsion leaf packs - As far as I know, Vintage V-Dubs is the only domestic supplier for these. The other's on the market are from Euromax and made in China, even the ones BD sells. Vintage V-Dubs seems to be having a rough time right now. Though the only issue I had with my order is very slightly delayed shipping time, read through their reviews before ordering. As far as the products go, everything I received is top notch.

The VWOB leaf packs are just like the German ones in every way, weight and welds as well. I'd never replaced them before so there was a learning curve getting the top arms in place, hopefully with the following steps I can alleviate some of those problems for others.


1) Remove the center beam grub screws and then the leaf packs.
2) Clean your beam of all the old grease. I used a piece of 2" steel flat stock and a broom handle with shop towels wrapped around them.

3) Cover with grease and fully install leak pack into (either) bottom torsion arm, install grub screw.
4) Liberally coat leaf pack with grease and slide it through the bottom tube. If it starts to bottom out or you hear metal hitting metal inside the tube not allowing you to fully seat the arm, it just means the leaf pack OR arm is not centered in the beam, wiggling it around will do the trick.
5) Install center beam grub screw, do not torque yet.
6) If your leaf packs are not welded on the end, use mechanics wire or zip ties to shape the leaf pack accordingly - they must be stacked almost perfectly or the arms will not go on. I tightened a zip tie around the pack(VERY tight), making sure the zip tie layed inside of the dimple for the grub screw. Then I used a flat head screw driver to push/stretch the zip tie out of the dimple(into the beam)and then repeat the process with another zip tie on the same side for redundancy, this way if one zip tie breaks when you put pressure on it with the arm, it will still have another holding it's shape. The job will be completed with the zip ties remaining harmlessly inside of the beam.
7) If your leaf pack's weld split upon installation, break the weld off clean and follow the above instructions. The broken weld will stop pack from fitting into the arm.
8 ) Using the grub screw hole(in the arm) and the grub screw dimple (in the leafs) lined up together, install the other torsion arm onto the leaf pack. If you had to use zip ties, you will have to be a bit more gentle during this process not to split the zip tie while you're tapping the arm in(with a rubber mallet) - then install grub screw.
9) Now, onto the top tubes. First, take both top rubber snubbers off of the beam.
10) From there, this will be a similar process to above but you will need to be sure to start on the right(passenger) side. Once the arm is installed on the leaf pack, torsion arm grub screw installed, leaf pack liberally greased and you've started to push the leaf pack through to the other side - you'll notice the torsion arm may need a little assistance to get over the rubber snubber mount... the other side will do the same but it will be much more difficult. Go ahead, give it the assistance needed and push it all the way through seating the passenger side. If the arm hits the snubber mount, bunch up a cloth and put it in between the two so your arm doesn't get chewed up.
11) Install center beam grub screw but do not torque.
12) Now, repeat steps 6-8

Oh, still here? That's because the left side F*CKING SUCKS.
No matter the suckage, do NOT hit ANY of these parts directly with a metal hammer. I used a block of wood.

13) Your upper leaf pack will now be under tension. You'll notice you can only slide the torsion arm on a certain amount before the arm needs to be turned up to clear the snubber mount. Under the assumption you remembered to install the center grub screw and your leaf pack hasn't backed out of the other side, the leafs should have slide far enough into the drivers side arm to have a secure hold for the following steps. If the leafs pop out when you lift the arm, the pack isn't inside of the arm deep enough - they either aren't aligned in the arm properly or you pushed the leaf pack in and backed the arm out on the other side.
14) Tools needed; pry bar, wooden wedge, wood block & hammer.
Whatever pry bar you use, make sure it won't mar your torsion arm. I used a wood handle and a lead pipe wrapped with shop towels then zip tied.
Put your pry bar in between the arm and snubber mount, pry up and insert your wooden wedge. So long as your wedge's angle isn't too steep, the wedge will stay in place well for the following step.

15) Using a wooden block, drive the torsion arm home using the area around the torsion cap as the place your wooden block rests while your hitting it - be sure you're not hitting the torsion arm cap itself, they are only pressed into the arms and can come out.
16) With luck, your drivers side arm will now be fully seated and your wooden wedge is still in place. Now is the time to clean off your old snubbers and using your pry bar, raise the top torsion arm installing the drivers side and then the pass side.
17) Finished? FINISHED! Now, time for the celebratory purchase of an early mustache bar and skydiving! ... no? ... just me?

"If the shoot doesn't open, immediately destroy my cell phone" - Then, I tried to get fresh.

How it's sitting now. HD grub screws and torsion caps front and center. I'm going to make some aluminum shims to space to sway bar from the torsion arm. I'm in the process of locating some USA made stainless T-clamps and USA made grade 12.9 mounting bolts.

Within the next two weeks, I'm hoping the suspension will be behind me and I can finally tackle replacing the other CV axle... and then my 1679 build.
Unfortunately it's becoming too cold to continue working on the high top, that will have to commence when I'm in town next year. For the mean time, I'll be making a Dormobile style top for it out of a 4x8' sheet of stainless and pine 2x4's. Just something quick which will save me from the leaky roof until further notice, I'll also be able to finally mount my Fantastic vent fan! There will be some wooden cabinet building in my future as well... until then friends!

[curtp07]

Greatness.
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[richparker]