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The journey of a new 1970 Westfalia owner. The fixes begin.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
I'm surprised to hear that some are having luck running the 009 and 34-3.

Why are you surprised? Maybe problems with some of the Chinese 009's but the German ones can do great. 17 years with German Solex 34PICT-3 and 009's and no flat spots, stumble, lag, or any of that stuff. I've always found it to be a great combo. It's just a matter of good timing and good carb tune.

Since your 009 wasn't any good and you're probably going to trash it I might be interested in taking it off your hands. As far as the carb I wouldn't waste time with the Chinese knockoff.


BTW, earlier you mentioned the distributor drive gear hadn't been correctly oriented. With a mechanical only distributor and a points replacement module it doesn't matter at all where it is. 12 possible orientations and they all work the same. With you new vac distributor the only concern with the drive gear orientation is that the vac pod doesn't hit something.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
wcfvw69 wrote:
I'm surprised to hear that some are having luck running the 009 and 34-3.

Why are you surprised? Maybe problems with some of the Chinese 009's but the German ones can do great. 17 years with German Solex 34PICT-3 and 009's and no flat spots, stumble, lag, or any of that stuff. I've always found it to be a great combo. It's just a matter of good timing and good carb tune.

Since your 009 wasn't any good and you're probably going to trash it I might be interested in taking it off your hands. As far as the carb I wouldn't waste time with the Chinese knockoff.


BTW, earlier you mentioned the distributor drive gear hadn't been correctly oriented. With a mechanical only distributor and a points replacement module it doesn't matter at all where it is. 12 possible orientations and they all work the same. With you new vac distributor the only concern with the drive gear orientation is that the vac pod doesn't hit something.


I'm not going to trash the 009, especially since it's German. It will be a back up for me. Very Happy I have no problems with 009s. I think they work great with 30-1's and 30-2's. I ran them for years back in the 80's.

When I installed this new distributor, I put the engine in TDC and ran the spark plugs wires based on where the rotor was pointing in that position. I didn't know that it didn't matter when you used a module as I've never used one.

Glad to know you're having luck with that combo. I really want to get one of Tim's rebuilt 34-3's but don't want to drop $220 right now. I need to pace my expenditures on this thing!!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to block the hose unless you're timing a DVDA that won't idle without it.

Pics of the 009 please.

A rich main jet might work, but that will waste gas on the road. Increasing accelerator pump output works the same giving it gas, but runs more efficiently by keeping a better mixture with steady throttle. The accelerator pump only activates when the pedal is being pushed down.

Edit- I'll buy that 009 from you. I keep a few German ones as spares, since people have a habit of driving bugs down my street that are on fire and need help.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here ya go! Very Happy

Does anyone know if this module would work with the new 034 I bought?


[/b]
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are modules for the 009 and modules for the 034. One is reverse compatible but the other isn't; I forgot which. Try it and report back?

Looks like a good 009, keep it or let it find it's way to someone who will appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Pertronix for the SVDA is different.

Also be sure and take the new SVDA apart and clean it and re-grease it. You'll be surprised at what you might find. Don't forget to oil the wick.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
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Here ya go! Very Happy

Does anyone know if this module would work with the new 034 I bought?


[/b]


It looks as if the magnetic collar is rubbing on the module. It shouldn't.
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Dual 40mm Webers - LM-2 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

udidwht wrote:
It looks as if the magnetic collar is rubbing on the module. It shouldn't.


But dood! The guy at AutoZone said I don't hafta set a gap with this thing....

Cool
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
udidwht wrote:
It looks as if the magnetic collar is rubbing on the module. It shouldn't.


But dood! The guy at AutoZone said I don't hafta set a gap with this thing....

Cool


Hey now! I didn't install the module! Very Happy

Well, more engine tuning is needed. This thing STILL isn't running right! Idles fine but it's still loading up and lugging a bit, particularly in 3rd. Still some off idle issues as well. I'm going to check the timing/dwell again but my mind is SCREAMING that these issues are due to the EMPI carb.

I up for ideas and has anyone had any luck with an EMPI carb?
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give us an engine pic.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll get a picture of this engine later today. Very Happy

I reset the timing to 32BTDC with vacuum line plugged. I checked and reset the dwell to 49. I reset the carb settings and the carb adjusts nicely.

I then test drove it around a long block. It's idles beautifully and returns to idle nicely. It just has an off-idle hesitation and bogs down a bit. If you rev it, it works ok. The other annoying thing is when your cruising at a steady speed, the motor feels like it surging or lugging a bit..

I'm quickly remembering why I never liked the 34-3 carb! I posted in the performance section today as well to see what others have done to get this 034 SVDA and 34-3 combo to work decent.

I'm simply use to my beloved 1967 30-1 Solex with the power fuel system and my 30-2 Solex with their vacuum only distributors (K and T). These are just so simple to work on and adjust and make these engines run beautifully.

If I don't get any good answers to what I'm doing wrong or over looked, I'm going to bolt my spare Brosol 30/31 on it with the 009. I forgot I loaned it to a buddy and it didn't have the adapter to fit on the bigger manifold. Well, I dug it out and he had installed one on it! Nice! Very Happy
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Last edited by wcfvw69 on Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7253834#7253834

I'm excited!! Very Happy As this link describes, I solved my poor running bus! Amazing what crappy, EMPI parts do to our VW's!
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here's a picture of my not so pretty engine. Once I finish going thru all the bus's systems, I'm going to yank it out and clean it up. The tins need to be blasted and powder coated and the engine needs to be detailed as well.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
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Here's a picture of my not so pretty engine. Once I finish going thru all the bus's systems, I'm going to yank it out and clean it up. The tins need to be blasted and powder coated and the engine needs to be detailed as well.


It looks cleaner than mine Very Happy But I would definitely move the fuel filter away from the carburettor heat risers and preferably out of the engine bay even though it looks like glass and metal. Boiling E10 and vapour locks?

Also looks like someone has plugged off the carburettor by linking the ported vacuum to the manifold vacuum with a loop of hose. These need to be separately blocked - a bolt or screw for instance.
Even better if the lower vacuum pickup is routed over to the air cleaner and provides a feed via the thermoswitch for the capsule that operates the flap to bring hot air up from below the tinware.

Two other sources of stumble on a colder engine....
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good observations, Mikedjames. I know, I need to get rid of the fuel filter. It was running so bad prior to the carb change that I was only going around the block. I'm going to get it moved tomorrow now that it's running good.

This engine actually had the bowden cable that ran from the thermostat flap arm thru that cable to the warm air duct on the oil bath. Of course, it's missing. The flaps wired open. Not a problem with our lovely 110 degree temps in PHX right now! lol. I'm on the hunt for the cable as well. My 69 bug runs the same kind of set up and I chased all the parts for it and they are installed.

The engine needs to come out. The engine builder changed it to a dog house fan shroud. He didn't do too great a job with the tin around the oil cooler. It needs to be dealt with too.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On today's agenda was to fix the front suspension. It had the original 44 year old L/S tie rod assy. The outside tie rod was, shall we say, a bit worn. Laughing

[/img]
Link


I then took off the blown out steering damper. It had no resistance left. I reinstalled a new one and then greased all 5 grease points on the beam. I also adjusted the front brakes while the tires where in the air.

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I had noticed a fuel smell towards the rear of the bus. I thought, "damn, the fuel tank rubber hoses must really be shot! So, while I was under the bus, I crawled back under the tranny. I then noticed this!

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Wonderful! The bus has a 1/2 tank of fuel in it. I stared in disbelief for a few minutes wondering how to tackle it. I ran to the local flaps and bought some good fuel line and a new fuel filter. This bus had a fuel filter under it and one in the engine compartment. I carefully clamped the fuel line next to the tank and cut it. I then removed all the fuel line going to the engine compartment, fuel pump.

The fuel filter was a bit NASTY! It was half plugged. Who knows how long it had been on there along with the old German fuel hose coming out of the tank.

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I took the German fuel hose that was leaking and bent it. It crumbled and cracked it was so dry.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So, after routing a new fuel line from the suction side of the fuel pump, thru the rear tin and installing a fuel filter under the bus, I was left with the task of pulling off the short piece of hose w/the clamp on it and quickly installing the new one. I stared at it for a few minutes, asking the VW gods to be nice and not soak me in fuel. I had a big drain pain under it. I went for it. Gas poured out and I missed on my first two attempts to slip the new hose on! Damn it. Finally, I got it on, tightened the hose clamp and went in the house to wash off all the gas the accumulated down my arm, soaking my shirt sleeve. Damn those cheap Germans! They couldn't install a shut off valve under tank! Rolling Eyes

Finally, I went thru the rest of the new fuel line I installed, making sure i double checked the clamps for being snug and took a deep breath, knowing that was done!

The last thing I did was replace the rubber bumpers in the shifter coupling. The originals were oil soaked, broken and sloppy. This wasn't too bad to change (I left the original cage in place) and just changed the rubber bushings and what a difference it made. It's not a sloppy mess at the shifter anymore and I can find the gears.

I took it for a drive and the steering is ssoo much tighter and nice. I adjusted the steering gear as well. I'm going to double check the toe in later today. I had adjusted the rear brakes for the first time and they were off a bit. During the drive, the pedal was higher and felts very solid. The brakes feel good now.

It feels good to know the brakes and suspension are done now.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last couple of days I "enjoyed", no really, I did "enjoy".. ok NOT, working on the passenger door. When I got it, it was missing the inner window scraper, the vent wing rubber and the channel window guide.

I took it apart and it wasn't too bad. The bottom of the vent wing assembly was a bit rusty. I wired wheeled most of it off and used navel jelly to eat the rest away. I visited my local auto body paint and supply place for a rust converter treatment. I bought a spray can of Zero Rust that incapsulates the rust. Not cheap as it was $15 bucks. I sprayed three coats on it. I was surprised how hard it was when it cured. I like it.

I put the door back together with the parts the owner had already bought. They were Brazilian. Yup, super excited to use those quality parts. Most of the parts fought me. I then realized when I went to slide the glass back into the door that I did it in the wrong sequence. Doh! Not happy. I had to pull the long glass channel rubber guide back out along with the securing clips and then remove the vent wing assembly. After doing this, I was able to slide the glass back into the door, lift it all the way up and insert the winder assembly. The hardest part was trying to get those (@#[email protected]$&@# clips into the slots of the inner scrapper! What a PITA! I lubed up the winder track and then installed the Brazilian door weather strip. It fit "ok" but boy is the door tight when shut. I'm hoping the seal will squish up some so it's not so tough to close and open.

After spending 4 hours screwing with that door, I had to run to the airport. I decided it would be my first freeway trip in the bus, despite it being 100 degrees outside. I'm not sure I've ever driven a bay on the freeway before today. My impression, wow.. while the bus ran great, it is NOT the fastest thing moving down the freeway. I was running late and got up to 65 for a bit and the engine let my know with the high RPMS it was spinning. This bus has a external oil cooler and I'm glad with the heat of the day. On the way back, I quickly discovered that the slow lane doing between 55-60 is the sweat spot. I feel like I wasn't moving at all due to how fast people went screaming by me. I can see why folks are putting Subaru engine in them. I also thought to myself "boy this baby could use a 5th gear to lower the engine RPMS down a bit. I know we want the fan to spin fast to cool the engine but I was surprised at the RPMS.

question, I'm getting a fuel smell in the bus. I'd assume it's the vent lines for the gas tank? I'm sure they've never been replaced. Anything else cause these fumes inside? I've already changed all the fuel lines from the gas tank to the engine and all the lines inside the engine compartment.

I feel an engine removal soon. The nose cone of the tranny is leaking a bit. I also want to remove the engine tin to clean them up and inspect the engine overall. The doghouse fan shroud wasn't fitted very well where the air discharges out the oil cooler. I wonder if it has the hoover bit and other pieces. I also want to change out the engine compartment seal.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm continuing to go thru the bus's systems to get everything back in shape. I went over the engine, changed the carb, adjusted the valves, timing and changed all the fuel lines from the tank thru the engine compartment. I've fixed the front brakes and checked the rest of the system while flushing the brake fluid and adjusting them all up. I changed the drivers side tie rod link assembly, steering damper and adjusted the steering gear to get it steering correctly.

The next big rock was to get all the electrical issues addressed. The instrument panel lights didn't work with the headlights on. The running/marker lights on all four corners didn't work but the head lights did. The light for the license plate did not work. There were indicator lights not working on the dash console to include the brights, R-turn flasher, etc.

I pulled the instrument cluster back.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I found that it wasn't TOO bad though it had some "adjustments" made to the electrical over it's 44 years. A bad bulb being replaced returned the brights on indicator light on the cluster. Another bad bulb in the right turn signal cluster was replaced fixing it.

[b]Question for anyone- Why do both right and left turn signal indicators go off vs. a solid left or a solid right like on bugs. Clearly, they wired them to work that way but it seems odd to me?? Anyone? Very Happy

I pulled the fuse panel away from the front bulk head. I noticed #1 fuse was blown. I slipped another in and pulled the headlight switch and the new fuse went off like a firecracker! Shocked Ok, a dead short. #1 controls the running lights. One wire controls the Right rear marking light and rear light assembly along with the license plate light. The other wire goes to all the other running lights to include both fronts. So, I unplugged the right rear light and license plate circuit wire, stuck a fuse in and turned on the lights. The fuse didn't blow. I put my fingers on the wires to make sure they were not getting hot. They didn't. The front running lights and the L/R marker light and L/R tail light worked.

So, now to find the dead short on the other wire. I opened the engine lid. The wires to both light assemblies had been messed with but were not terrible. Someone had crimped on plug adapters for towing something at one time. I pulled the r-rear light assemble out. It was wired correctly but I didn't see any obvious issue. The r-rear marker light was pulled and the ground wire was broken and not hooked up and the power wire had been cut w/a new crimp style plug on it that was too small and was forced on the male part of the light.

I didn't see anything to cause the dead short. I traced the wire harness coming from the right side of the engine compartment and saw it go up above the engine lid and was secured with the factory metal tabs. It didn't look like anyone had ever fooled w/the tabs. I loosened all the tabs and pulled the harness down and saw this-

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The wires were crimped, cut and crushed over the years by the metal retaining tabs. I pulled it apart and could see the power wire was shorting out with ground next to it. I pulled the license plate assembly off, and it was in pieces w/out a bulb in it. Great, more parts hunting.

I fixed all these issues and it solved the problem and all the lights on this bus now work accept the back up lights. I need to track that tomorrow. I hope it's not the switch on the transmission as I don't have one.

I also need to wire up a newer stereo that's in the dash. I hope it works!
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**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

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1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Note most all your fuses are red which is the 16 amp fuses. They need to be white which is the 8 amp fuses.

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1970 fuse box. The back up light fuse is located next to the coil.

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1971 fuse box. Note in 71 the (interior light at rear buzzer alarm) and (Windshield wiper) where changed to 16 amp fuses.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up Tcash. Very Happy

I did notice that as well but didn't have any white fuses left. I'm going to order some along with a new rear license plate light assembly and other misc items to clean up the electrical issues.

Thanks again TCash and for others reading this, please feel free to point out anything you see wrong, suggestions, etc.. Very Happy
_________________
Bill

**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**

My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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