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The journey of a new 1970 Westfalia owner. The fixes begin.
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This past week I had to replace my speedometer. After taking the instrument cluster off to get to the wiring, I noticed when I bolted it back up the the speedometer needle was resting at 20mph.. I pulled the speedometer out of the cluster and found the needle return spring had snapped and the needle has zero resistance to it. I sourced a good used speedometer and went to install it. I noticed the plastic housing was jacked up where the metal tabs lock the glass in place. It appears those metal tabs/circles/centering plates where also jacked up as well. I put it together and it's ok for now. I'm on the search for a better instrument cluster though.

I ordered the made in the USA rear hatch seal from ISP West. It's only $39 vs. $96 for the German one from everywhere else. I read that the German one has some fitment issues and it tight when you close the hatch.

As you can see in this pictures, the hatch seal was probably the original and was dried out and wasted.

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I dug out and pried out the old, dried up, wasted hatch seal. I cleaned up the oil glue and then installed the new ISP West seal. It fit very nicely. I glued it in spot w/weather strip adhesive. The biggest pain was unhooking the hatch to slip the new seal in. I didn't want to cut this new one.

It fits nice, the lid closes easily and I happy with it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I'm working my way through this bus's systems, it's been fun/amazing and not surprising as to what I'm finding. Having bought OLD, used VW's over the years (and from learning from others experiences here) it's quite interesting to see so many of the common issues on this bus that leave people broken down on the side of the road.

I HATE seeing pictures of VW's burning due to fuel lines and fuel filters in the engine bay. This bus had the combo going. A plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment and dried up fuel lines, with one leaking under the tank.

Broken clutch cables or accelerator cables are another common thing that leave people stranded.

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I've only driven this a little bit and felt like I was playing Russian roulette with the clutch and accelerator cables. My new to be 67 bug I bought a few years back had a badly worn clutch hook on the clutch pedal. The cable itself was worn half thru the bowden tube. So, I wasn't too shocked to see this when I took the clutch assembly off this bus. The cable itself looks ok, just the oblong hole at the clutch end was what was wrong with it. The pedal assembly parts were worn considerably as the pictures illustrated. Ironically, there was ZERO grease or lube on these parts nor was there any on the cable.
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dcat917
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just spent 2 days doing this fix. My 71 Ghia clutch was fine. The only reason I found it was I was restoring the floor. I went with the Bigfoot product and was really pleased. Well engineered and sturdy http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1340666

The problem I had was packed grease in my clutch tube, what a pain in the ass that was to fix. I had to use a 6 foot secting of 1/4" x 20 tpi rod as a pipe cleaner Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dcat917 wrote:
I just spent 2 days doing this fix. My 71 Ghia clutch was fine. The only reason I found it was I was restoring the floor. I went with the Bigfoot product and was really pleased. Well engineered and sturdy http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1340666

The problem I had was packed grease in my clutch tube, what a pain in the ass that was to fix. I had to use a 6 foot secting of 1/4" x 20 tpi rod as a pipe cleaner Shocked


Wow Shocked I've lucked out and never seen the tubes packed/clogged with old grease. They are usually like this bus's. No grease at all. Was your clutch hook half worn thru too?
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dcat917
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Couldn't find the shaft but here is the cable
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got back from my vacation in Seattle. We enjoyed BEAUTIFUL weather for the 6 days in town. No rain and temps in the 80-'s low 90's. I was surprised by how many old air cooled VW'S I saw. It was like being in S. California.

Now, for the folks living in Seattle, I have to ask "how the hell do you tolerate the traffic?".. Wow.. That city is 25-30 years behind all the growth it's experienced. It doesn't matter what freeway, side street, etc.. Simply HORRIBLE! Ok, I feel better.

I got home to a box of WW parts for the bus clutch. A new bowden tube, clutch cable, pedal hook and pin and bowden tube seal. I took the pedal arm out of the bracket and cleaned and lubed it up. I installed the clutch cable while applying grease. I installed the new bowden tube and it had the right bow in it w/out adding washers. I lubed the threads of the cable w/anti-seeze and installed the wing nut. I adjusted the pedal to about 3/4" of movement.

I'm still trying to figure out the round, rubber seal I bought. It apparently goes under the floor and the foam pad goes around the shaft under the mat. I need to find out how the rubber seal goes? Anyone? Very Happy

I took if for a test drive and WOW.. what a difference the freshly greased up pedal assembly, clutch cable and bowden tube made. It feels like I have to use 1/2 the pedal pressure I used before. It's VERY smooth. I have a feeling the old cable had rubbed thru some of the bowden tube and made it harder to push the pedal down. The bowden tube was OLD and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the original like the hook and pin that were worn out.

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My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
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You're awesome T-cash! Great pics!

Question- how is the round, rubber seal held in place under the floor panel? I bought the one from Wolfsburg West. It has no lip to slip in the sheet metal to hold it in place. Is it simply glued up against the bottom of the sheet metal or?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It should be tight on the pedal shaft and go down when you push it.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It should be tight on the pedal shaft and go down when you push it.


Ok, got it! Thank you sir. My bus was missing both the round rubber piece that goes under it and the piece on top so I had no idea.

Thanks again.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to update my thread.

It's been like 190 degrees w/high humidity in PHX lately. You have to love the monsoon season, NOT. It's like backwards from the folks in the north who can't go into an un-heated garage due to the cold of winter. Here, its so hot in the garage (and outside), it's almost un-bearable. Hopefully after 60 days, it will start to cool off a bit.

I had ordered stock WW seat covers to replace the gross, worn out blue and brown covers it had in it. I gambled and thought the seat pads might be ok but found out they were the originals and were shot. I had to order new coconut pads for the bases and back rests.

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Here's the beauty seat before.

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The original pads were toast.

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I got LUCKY and no lock down tabs broke on the passenger seat but 3-4 broke on the drivers seat back.

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I had to grab some sheet metal and cut some tabs and weld them to the frame.

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In progress w/new bottom pad in place.

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And complete. I had to cut off the rivets on the drivers seat to separate the frames. Bummer, wish they came apart w/out having to cut things off. They turned out ok and look MUCH better than what was in there. Very Happy
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Bala
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seat looks pretty dang good!
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bala wrote:
Seat looks pretty dang good!


Thanks! Smile I like them MUCH better than what was in it.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reinstalled the front seats today in the bus this morning after vacuuming up a pound of the old horse hair seat pads remains. New door panels and rubber seat stand matts are clearly needed. I also had to use some Goof off to get some spilled, molasses type of liquid off under both seats.. The stuff was hard and I have no idea what it was.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After Tcash and Bus Daddy educated me as to how the pedal seals went in, I installed them and the foam seals inside under the mats to both the brake pedal and clutch pedal.

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I then removed the accelerator linkage and the old, broken and hard as a rock boot from the floor. After removing those pieces, I wire wheeled the bottom area to remove some loose surface rust. I the treated it was a rust converter that incapsulates it for good. I reinstalled a new accelerator linkage, boot and clips.
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Bill

**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**

My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had a nice thunder storm last night which lowered the temps, so I took advantage to knock out some more items on the bus..

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It clearly had the original 44 year old door seals in it. The seal I bought was a German one from WW. It fit great and while the door closes a bit tight, I know it will compress in short time unlike the Brazilian door seal (that came w/the bus) has and need to go away. You can see the original VW logo and part number on the old seal. Kind of cool.

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I then changed the broken antenna. Only getting a couple of radio stations was no fun.

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I then installed a new engine deck lid surround seal that the engine doesn't like. To shut the lid is VERY TIGHT. I bought the seal from Wolfsburg West.

Question- Is there a preferred engine lid deck seal for the engine lid?


The remaining miscellaneous items still needing attention include-

* Change the cargo door weather strip seal.
* Replace the POS Brazilian door seal on drivers door.
* Pull the far back window on the drivers side to remove the vent window that's frozen solid.
* Pull the engine and replace all the missing tin items like the sleds, manifold tins, and install a thermostat, stove pipe and heater hoses and inspect the cooling flaps. Just go through the engine and insure everything else is good.
* Pull the transmission and replace the leaky rear seal.
* Fix and install the four heater controls in the dash.
*Pull the gas tank and replace all the rubber lines. It smells like gas inside when the tank has more than half a tank of fuel in it.
* See if I can identify if it's running the original rear bearings or not. Inspect and replace as needed.
* Pull the steering gear and replace the pitman arm seal.
* Then, focus my attention on the cabinets and interior sections of the camper.








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1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Damn...
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1970 Westfalia Bus
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1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Damn...

Don't be so stingy with the details, what happened?
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure what happened yet BD. I was going for a short cruise down the freeway on an errand. About 3 miles down the freeway it suddenly decelerated and started bogging down. Luckily, it provided enough time to get over to the side of the freeway before it died. When it first happened, I thought "oh shit"! I had just read the bus's and fire thread last night! Luckily, I had no smoke.

After pulling over and stopping, I lifted the engine lid. Nothing was out of place. I had just changed ALL the fuel lines when I bought it and wire tied the carb inlet hose. All wires were in place. I tried to start it again and it fired right up then died. Then it did it again. The engine wasn't hot as I hadn't driven it that long.

I called my insurance company who called out a tow truck for free. I sat in 105* temps for 45 minutes waiting. I tried to start it again and now it won't even turn over like the starter crapped out. The battery sounded fine the last time I tried to start it.

The tow truck guy was great. He dropped it in the drive way and helped me push it in the garage. It was too hot for me to want to figure out what happened though I think we all know the fuel pump took a dump. It has an electronic ignition module and a fairly new coil.

I'm going to go thru it tomorrow. First, I need to figure out why the starter suddenly crapped out. After I sort that out, I'll check the fuel pump.

What a bummer. I'd never had to have a VW towed home before in 30 years of off and on driving them. Lucky I guess. I shouldn't be too surprised since it's still a fairly new to me Bus. I just would of thought I'd of gotten some warning signs before the damn fuel pump just quit. The starter also gave no warning signs of having issues either.
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**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**

My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update- Since the GF is home now, I popped off the fuel line at the pump going to the carb. Suddenly, the bus's starter is turning over again? Maybe I overheated it on the side of the freeway. I'll check all the connections and ground strap tomorrow.

Anyway, the GF turned it over w/the fuel line off the pump and it dribbles/drips out.. So, the fuel pump is no good..

I'm trying not to over react and start carrying a box of obvious spares and tools since this hasn't happened to me before. The last time I had a fuel pump go out, it got weak and wouldn't pump enough gas to the carb on the freeway. It got me home though were I changed it.
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Bill

**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**

My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Well, I figured out why the fuel pump provided no warnings that it was getting weak or going out, before it just quit suddenly on the freeway. I didn't even notice the plunger pin was about to fall out until I removed it. I'd never had this happen before on a fuel pump though I have seen pictures of it on The Samba. It was the cheap, alternator style fuel pump made by Brosol of Brazil.

I replaced it w/a new, rebuildable style from Autozone. I've had luck w/these pumps in the past and am running them on one of my bugs for the past few years.

Luckily, I had a shorter, spare generator fuel pump push rod to replace the alternator style/length that was in there.

A road trip for a few miles showed it was back to normal. Oddly, the starter is working perfectly? I still need to go check all the connections to it and see how old it is.
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Bill

**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**

**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**

My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
1967 Standard Bug
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