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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 2:35 am    Post subject: Stereo installation question Reply with quote

I'm trying to find a receiver that will completely shut down when the ignition key is turned off. I think I found one that meets that requirement as well as some other features I want.

Before I buy it I'm reading the manual to see if it supports the total power off feature I require.

The manual for the unit is here with the power setup starting on page 19-20 (under the "important" heading).

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/DEH-X6600BT_OwnersManual062113.pdf

The manual says,
Quote:
When installing this unit in a vehicle without an ACC (accessory) position on the ignition switch, failure to connect the red cable to the terminal that detects operation of the ignition keymayresultinbatterydrain.


What does this mean? Do I need to connect the decks red cable to the ignition switch? Do I still need to connect the other always on yellow cable (15)?
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost all modern decks have this feature, a constant voltage is required to maintain the clock and station presets. Without it you will have to reset the clock and stations every time you start the bus. If you drive your bus once a week you need not worry if you have a decent battery.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But it makes it sound like there won't be any battery drain if I hook it up to the red cable to an ignition controlled terminal.

As far as it loosing memory when no there is no power, I can't tell. I've found one Sony model that would auto turn off completely when there is no acc option but it was missing a feature I needed.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Based on further research. It sounds like I need to wire the yellow wire to a constant 12v source. Is there a place on the fuse block for this?
I then would also need to wire the red wire to a switched 12v source and this wire essentially tells the radio to power down/on. Where on the fuse block would I tap into?

I have a stock 77 westy.
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Bala
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:
Based on further research. It sounds like I need to wire the yellow wire to a constant 12v source. Is there a place on the fuse block for this?
I then would also need to wire the red wire to a switched 12v source and this wire essentially tells the radio to power down/on. Where on the fuse block would I tap into?

I have a stock 77 westy.


Just grab a test light and start (carefully) poking around your fuse block. Find a “constant hot” and an “accessory on” fuse and note their locations (there should be plenty of empty spade terminals). Disconnect your battery, remove the fuse block for easy access to the back (2 screws and takes about 30 seconds). Hook everything up re-connect the battery, and you're done! Also, I've found that if you pop the face off when your vehicle is sitting you won't get the battery drain. That trick has worked for me in 3 different VWs (bugs and buses).
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many modern stereos have one wire that goes to hot all the time, and another wire that goes to switched power. The one that is hot all the time powers the clock and presets when the main power is off. This way the radio is off too when the engine is off but it uses a very small amount of power - like a watch, so it doesn't run the battery down.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:12 pm    Post subject: 77 Stereo installation Reply with quote

Hi
Hook the Yellow wire to Fuse #9. It is an Accessory fuse with constant 12 volts.
Hook the Red wire to fuse #10. It is a switched 12 volt source. Note the side of the fuse with the wire that goes to the windshield wiper switch. Is where you want to hook the red wire.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You may need one of these to add a wire to fuse #10.
http://www.elecdirect.com/product/4f04646c-71af-474f-a170-553e13cb11cf.aspx


Last edited by Tcash on Thu Jun 26, 2014 2:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to use these piggyback connectors so you don't disrupt or hack your original VW wiring.

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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thanks guys!
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sped372
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This style is nice, too. Maybe a little more versatile since it doesn't need to be permanently attached to a wire (it just makes one spade into two).

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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

use the ignition switch buzzer wire to switch the radio. terminal 85, it's a grey wire with a black tracer, runs from the switch harness to the fuse panel where it plugs in to a tabbed connector beside the other relays. usually the little relay is removed because the buzzer sound is so annoying. the wire will probably still be there, lurking in the fuse panel, ready to be repurposed by you. connect the switched power lead (usually red) of the radio to this wire and when you have the key in the ignition the radio has power, remove the key from the ignition and no power to radio. it's a workaround for the VW switch that lacks the ACC position and it works like a charm on Bus '75-'79.
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HarryFD
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did this on my 1970 bus. I pulled the fuse box and verified which terminals are switched and which ones are always hot. Each terminal had a spare lug so I just installed a female spade lug on the appropriate wires for the radio and pushed them on. Easypeasy.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
use the ignition switch buzzer wire to switch the radio. terminal 85, it's a grey wire with a black tracer, runs from the switch harness to the fuse panel where it plugs in to a tabbed connector beside the other relays. usually the little relay is removed because the buzzer sound is so annoying. the wire will probably still be there, lurking in the fuse panel, ready to be repurposed by you. connect the switched power lead (usually red) of the radio to this wire and when you have the key in the ignition the radio has power, remove the key from the ignition and no power to radio. it's a workaround for the VW switch that lacks the ACC position and it works like a charm on Bus '75-'79.


I only saw one gray wire with a black tracer and it was connected to the first fuse on the fuse block (my buzzer does work). When I tried that spot it didn't work. I'll try putting the red wire on #10 next.

I hooked up the yellow wire to the number 9 fuse spot.

Quick question: there is an upper set and a lower set of connectors for each fuse, which spot should I be connecting to? Upper or lower?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not 77, but it will give you the idea.

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1. Note: how some of the top terminals are connected. This is the power coming into the fuse box.
2. Note: how the bottom connectors are individual. This is the power going out of the fuse box.

You want to connect to the #2 side that the power is going out.

Good Luck
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