Author |
Message |
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:10 pm Post subject: hoover mod gone wrong |
|
|
well, I didn't do this, but whatever happened, the result is the same
I made a chamber to pre lube my engine
and found the added bonus is that I found a major oil leak without the engine running. The pic is lousy but you get the overall idea
I can't get a straight look as the sleds and header are blocking the view, but I was able to look using a small inspection mirror. There is a steady stream of oil coming from a spot , right where you would drill through deepening the bore from the cam bearing. I can only think I got too close and there is some porosity in the case casting there. If that's the case, maybe I can drill it straight through , tap, and plug it
Any other thoughts? Welding in that recess is clearly out of the picture.. I'm confident that the drillings to add oil to the 1-2 side lifters could be plugged back up, is there another way to supplement the 1-2 side oiling? Or am I taking another case off of the shelf to prep |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flyinglow94 Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2005 Posts: 1165 Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
It would be difficult to get a good weld in there but you might be able to put a plate over it and weld it up, kind of like the plate behind #3. When I had drilled my case for the mod I went at an angle through the bearing saddle to avoide the pocket all together. _________________ "What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: 'tis dearness only that gives everything its value. Heaven knows how to put a proper price upon its goods; and it would be strange indeed if so celestial an article as FREEDOM should not be highly rated."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy,its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.." |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vince1 Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2003 Posts: 823 Location: Burgundy, France
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ouch I think I'd prefer to see the first pic since you now have entirely built the engine around this case
Maybe you can do what you said, but for a first try, and to keep the hoover mod, I'd clean the recess very well, even grind it a little with a dremel to have "fresh" magnesium, then fill the recess with some JB Weld, then if it doesn't work, I'd plug it back (2 plugs), one in the cam main, and one drilled from the front of the case.
_________________ my French blog https://vwpanelvan.wordpress.com/
Click here for my full pix detailed 2165 engine build with beehive valvetrain.
Sorry for my poor English, I'm a French guy ... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
andy198712 Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2010 Posts: 1209 Location: Cornwall - UK
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
I'd epoxy metal or just plug where it burst through like you say , and keep the hoover mod.
I did this drilling recently and angled the bit as much as one can to ovoid it, and angled the vertical drilling so it would meet sooner, if that makes sense _________________
Alstrup wrote: |
I like 5,5inchers in the rear at least. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
jbbugs Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2002 Posts: 2152 Location: Behind the wheel
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
I had the exact same thing happen to me. I filled a section of that cavity with J.B.Weld, then re-drilled it. I've run (2) 14-Hour endurance races in my Chumpcar with it. I beat this thing pretty hard when I'm racing, and thankfully, there has been No leaks, no problems so far.
The motor also has seen oil temps as high as 260F degrees. Don't sweat it. _________________ Drag bus! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MOVmKdhX4
69 OG paint Transporter
73' Super Beetle Champcar Endurance Roadracer
Patina my ass, that's a Rust Bucket!
Last edited by jbbugs on Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:53 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
vince1 wrote: |
Maybe you can do what you said, but for a first try, and to keep the hoover mod, I'd clean the recess very well, even grind it a little with a dremel to have "fresh" magnesium, then fill the recess with some JB Weld, |
I considered this, filling that recess entirely, like when an electrical component is "potted". My experience though, is that epoxy never seals well enough to stop a leak, but always well enough to make removal a total bitch.
After sleeping on it, I realize that after as much time spent (!!!) on this my only real option is to tear it down and do it right. I recently scored an 84mm Okrasa crank
, so if I send a case out to be machined for it at least I will have a backup available, in the event I can't effect a solid repair. I'll get it on the stand today, and see if I can get the case apart without disturbing the 3/4 side. Bright side is I'll be able to give everything a solid fresh coat of Redline assembly lube while I'm in there.. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raul arrese Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2006 Posts: 1330 Location: miami florida
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
If you can get in there you could get like a reamer or whatever you have and poke at it till you get the hole that's obviously there and make a coned plug out of aluminum and hammer it into the hole like a wedge , same way the factory plugs the galleys , then clean and fill the complete hole in case with j.b weld the 24hr one ... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vince1 Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2003 Posts: 823 Location: Burgundy, France
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So, no point in sitting around feeling sorry for myself so jumped right in this eve. From the outside no issues:
Hold a light up and look again
from the inside there is some chatter in the bore, not a very cleanly drilled hole, and this is the result
I tapped it for 1/8-27npt, and a plug fits ok
but 2 issues I am not happy with
1. it blocks the extra hoover drilled oil galley
2. the case is still pretty thin where the other oil galley intersects the one I just plugged
I am going to try to machine a small flanged plug, and use an o-ring as well as thread locker. If I can see where the plug snugs down, possibly it can be modified so the two oil passages are still connected. Fingers crossed |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fastone Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: So Cal
|
Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have to ask why you would ever do this mod, I built many USAC midget engine's for Auto-Craft back in the day
and we never needed anything like that and we won a lot of race's.
Your building a street car engine.. and you need this why?
BTW who the hell is this Bob guy did he ever win any kind of racing. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
koolkarmakombi Samba Member
Joined: June 26, 2007 Posts: 238
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
fastone wrote: |
BTW who the hell is this Bob guy did he ever win any kind of racing. |
Even better he won at life! I don't think he was ever a racer
The late RS Bob Hoover was a VW legend, unique character and excellent technical writer who made lots of vw engines for cars busses and planes.
He had a blog that is still up, search there for the hoover mod and why.
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com.au/
Also do a search for his sermons, quite the entertaining read |
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
fastone wrote: |
I have to ask why you would ever do this mod, I built many USAC midget engine's for Auto-Craft back in the day
and we never needed anything like that and we won a lot of race's.
Your building a street car engine.. and you need this why?
|
There's no doubt that many, many cars have gone fast or run well without the hoover case oil mods. There's also no doubt that the two sides of the VW type 1 engine don't receive equal oiling. My intention is to improve the top end oiling to improve spring cooling, and specifically improve the 1-2 side so it matches (somewhat better) the 3-4 side. Maybe it is not needed, or is, I have no proof either way. I only have the opinions end experience of some people who have a proven record of giving solid advice, and that is why I am here.
Surely I don't need this for the engine to function, but I believe it is a worthwhile modification. If this thread helps someone else who has made the same mistake great, that is all I am intending by posting. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 9:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
I drill all mine at an angle so it dosent get close to that cavity.pretty easy. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
For what it's worth, just general information: Last night I measure the location of the oil passages relative to the case on the case I'm fixing, and another I have sitting here. On the case that is pictured, I measured from the cam bearing to the bottom of the intersecting oil passage, the long one through the lifter bore. 1.73" same as what Hoover lists. From there to the outside of my case is less than .1", too thin for comfort. Angling the bit from the cam bore probably helps, but using a slightly smaller aircraft bit for the intersecting hole will be my path on the next case. Comparing the other case, the casting seems a bit different, but there is no way to be sure as there isn't any straight surfaces, and I haven't blown a hole through the case yet with which to measure. The cam saddle to lifter bore hole is slightly smaller than 1.73" though, 1.68, so there are variations for certain. Bottom line is that you just have to be more careful than I was, measure 12 times and drill slowly. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I use a 3/16" or .225" bit for mine. just beware you can do the same thing inside the case if you angle it too much....so... get all ducks in a row befors the final shot so you dont have one running around like a chicken with it's head shot off. you can also make a lifter bore bushing for the drill bit so it keeps the bit more inboard if your using a smaller bit like I do. every little bit helps from doing extra work. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Made the plug, the flange idea wouldn't work, as there isn't enough room. The plug is opened to keep the oil passages connected, and was installed with red loctite. I used some JB weld on the last turn and a half of the plug, and then filled around the plug. If it ever comes loose I'll follow up, but for now it holds pressure fine
the modified plug is the lower one
Here is the notch to keep the passages connected
SD |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fastone Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2010 Posts: 211 Location: So Cal
|
Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 10:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
esde wrote: |
fastone wrote: |
I have to ask why you would ever do this mod, I built many USAC midget engine's for Auto-Craft back in the day
and we never needed anything like that and we won a lot of race's.
Your building a street car engine.. and you need this why?
|
There's no doubt that many, many cars have gone fast or run well without the hoover case oil mods. There's also no doubt that the two sides of the VW type 1 engine don't receive equal oiling. My intention is to improve the top end oiling to improve spring cooling, and specifically improve the 1-2 side so it matches (somewhat better) the 3-4 side. Maybe it is not needed, or is, I have no proof either way. I only have the opinions end experience of some people who have a proven record of giving solid advice, and that is why I am here.
Surely I don't need this for the engine to function, but I believe it is a worthwhile modification. If this thread helps someone else who has made the same mistake great, that is all I am intending by posting. |
OK but do you really think that the little bit of oil that come's off the sides of rockers cools the springs ?
If that's what your after put spray bars in it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
andy198712 Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2010 Posts: 1209 Location: Cornwall - UK
|
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 3:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
It mists up there and flies everywhere take off your rocker cover and rev the engine.... Wear PPE _________________
Alstrup wrote: |
I like 5,5inchers in the rear at least. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5969 Location: central rust belt
|
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 4:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
fastone wrote: |
OK but do you really think that the little bit of oil that come's off the sides of rockers cools the springs ?
If that's what your after put spray bars in it. |
I've drilled the ends of the intake pushrods. It sprays a good amount of oil on the rockers, springs, and stems. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark tucker Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23937 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
|
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 10:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
you can also get allen head plugs there a little easyer to install. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|