Off-and-on grinding

[crvc]

I have a '67 bug on a '74 chassis. I have grinding when trying to get into first gear. I tightened the clutch cable so there's less than an inch of play in the pedal. That helped somewhat. But still grinds going into first gear first thing in the morning and lately grinds when going into first gear at stoplights If I move the shifter REALLY SLOWLY I can hear the gears slowing enough to jam it into first gear.

I had the engine out recently and saw the clutch disc is still quite thick. The clutch springs are still very strong.

I adjusted the carb so idle speed is extremely low--both idiot lights are on--but it still grinds. Searching this site I see that fiddling with the shift lever could help but I haven't had to adjust it in the ten years I've owned this bug. I'm worried something is messed up inside the tranny.

I took it for a three-our drive last week and other than vapor lock had no problems; once it's in gear it runs like a new car.

I've never needed to do tranny work so I don't know anything about the innards.

Any suggestions?

TIA,

crvc

[VW_Buggsy]

Well, it sounds a lot like a clutch related issue. It could be pretty much anywhere between your foot and the bell housing.

Shifter adjustment is usually about getting it into or out of a gear rather than a cause for grinding, at least in my experience. Check the shift coupler in the back of the tunnel though make sure it's tight and doesn't have any slop to it if you haven't already though.

Since you adjusted the cable and that seemed to help, have you tried just further adjustments to see if you get further improvements? You can always put that back if things get worse after all. That's the easiest thing to try. If things get better and better the more you tighten but you run out of adjustment that would probably mean stretched clutch cable or the hook on the pedal cluster is about to go.

Other than that I think I'd check the clutch cable and the hook on the pedal cluster on which it rides first. Since you can adjust those I doubt they are bad but it's just easier than an engine drop so I'd do that first. Then I'd drop the engine again to see if there if everything is still all good in the bell housing (no oil leaks, cross shaft, throw out bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc, etc.).

Just my .02, I don't know everything

[jlex]

In the late '70's I had a 914 Porsche (flexible flyer) that had a weak synchro on first gear. To keep it from grinding when placing it in first, I would initially shift it into second gear, then go to first. Worked for me. Try it!
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[crvc]

[jlex]

Yes, it is a big job. Special tools are needed to work on a transmission. You may opt to live with the "work-around" instead of fixing it or getting a refurbished transmission.
Before I did either, I'd change out the gear oil to see if that makes a difference... when's the last time that's been looked at? Maybe the last guy put the wrong gear oil in the thing & a change will be your cure
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[Tim Donahoe]

You should try re-adjusting your clutch for a 3/8 inch freeplay before resistance. 3/8 to 3/4 is Bently's recommendation.

Tim

[crvc]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have to pull the engine out this weekend to change the oil cooler. While it's out I can check the Bowden tube, cable, clutch, whatever. I filled it with 90wt hypoid gear oil less than a year ago.

crvc

[J8HN]

If you pull the engine, check the pilot bearing for grease.
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1971 SUPER BEETLES x3
1971 WESTY
1968 STANDARD BEETLE