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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 3:40 pm Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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If this is will work with your gauge. This replaces the plug.
VDO-323-064 - 323064 - 300F DEGREE OIL TEMP SENDER M18 X 1.5-WILL FIT VW OIL RELIEF GALLEY
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VDO-323-064
Good luck
Tcash
I would say 14-18 ft lbs. Start at 14. |
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1970fun Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2008 Posts: 209 Location: Holland
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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 12:41 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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I'm very curious Phil if the new oil and the longer spring can cure you's symptoms? |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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TDCTDI Samba Advocatus Diaboli
Joined: August 31, 2013 Posts: 12856 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 7:25 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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mcdonaldneal wrote: |
Also, I can't find a torque value for the pressure relief plug, just the Bentley caution 'do not overtighten the plug'! I wouldn't worry but as I have a temp sensor integrated into it I'll have to use that nut to tighten. Hopefully I can crush the washer without stripping the sensor out of the plug! |
Find an old socket that you can sacrifice that is larger than the sensor that you can cut the end away leaving two nubs that can engage the flats on the plug.
Here's an example, this is a tool for a Golf/Jetta transmission.
Or remove the sensor, tighten the plug & re-install the sensor. _________________ Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.
GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!
An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.
Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it. |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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I seem to have an amazing capacity to turn a half hour job like changing the oil into a three day marathon!
Admittedly, I have had to work out how to check the pressure relief spring tension, order a new spring and crush washer, order the wrong kind of oil, realise I don't have a drain plug crush washer, as I have a M14 drain plug, order one and remove and reinstall the thermostat, but even so, it shouldn't have taken so long!
Today, I calibrated my oil temp sender in a boiling kettle, and it's pretty close. I cleaned it beforehand, but it took a while to rinse the residual oil out of the kettle !
I decided to gently torque the sensor drain plug to Tcash's 14 ft lbs, which seemed fine.
The final straw was that the can of 10W30 that I thought was full, was only 2/3 full. I could try a mixture again, but I know we would all be happier if I ordered another can. So I have!
_________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22668 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 3:03 pm Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Phil...cat question..
Can you leave a Fluffy in the Bus with the top,up,to stay cool for an afternoon or will it get too hot? _________________ .ssS! |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:46 pm Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Abscate wrote: |
Phil...cat question..
Can you leave a Fluffy in the Bus with the top,up,to stay cool for an afternoon or will it get too hot? |
I think that is a really important question, so I'll answer carefully.
We had an accurate temperature gauge in the bus. Most campsites were shaded. We have a 12v fan that runs off the leisure battery that we can run for many hours. We leave the cat with plenty of cool water and there are shaded spots she likes, under the seats. We leave the roof up and roof vents and four windows cracked open.
In a shaded spot, that will stay shaded, the bus doesn't get much above the ambient temperature, even when it was into the 80'sF.
If there is direct sun it's very different. Once there was an unexpectedly sunny day and we were in the town, and once we had gone on the bike at 8am for about an hour and a half. The temp got into the 90's in the bus. The cat behaved ok but did drink plenty of water when we came back, which is unusual for her and so we never left her in the sun like that again.
Lunch stops, and if we were nearby, and the slider was open, she is perfectly happy, even with sunny temps of 90 plus. She didn't even look to come out of the bus and underneath.
So, in short, we don't leave her if we are in doubt about the situation, but is was pointed out to us that it is illegal is some European countries to leave an animal in a car under some circumstances (that I haven't clarified). There's no doubt a vehicle can overheat inside very easily and quickly, and I hope we are pretty conservative about it.
Hope that helps. _________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22668 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:35 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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It's easy to figure out Fluff is a family member and you take great care of her! Our cats stay home but we do have two dogs -the time are too big to leave in car for any time though. We have similar laws in many states , by the way. _________________ .ssS! |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 1:55 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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So, life got in the way for a couple of weeks!
I had to wait for the 10W30 oil and the drain plug crush washer to arrive, but I have now changed the oil, including the oil in the filter. The filter was very new, so I emptied it of the old oil and refilled it. The thermostat has been refitted.
I drove the 'test route' again. The outside temperature was similar to last time, about 16degC. A mixture of hard driving on hilly dual carriageway at 70mph, roundabouts to accelerate away from and some steeper hills.
I have entered the new figures in bold below and, to be honest, I would say there is very little difference. The oil pressure readings are definitely lower (although when the gauge reads barely zero, the oil light is still not lit) and the temperature readings are very similar (although the 'save my bus' light came on less, only really flickering on the hills at the end).
The dash temperature gauge readings are fractionally higher, if anything. It might be that the connection is better, as it was connected/disconnected a few times and cleaned for calibration in boiling water.
My plan is to stick with the 10W30 for now, and see how things go. Our general driving though doesn't have the long motorway stretches that have caused the high temperatures in the past. I'm sure it's 'normal' for a camper bus engine to work pretty hard, and I'll still use the 'save my bus' light as a signal to ease off when it lights up. That corresponds to about 225F, which I don't believe is damaging. If I want to address the 'problem' further, the next step I can think of is to clean the oil cooler... I'm not there yet!
Cold start:
Time to oil light off, 5sec
Time to stable oil pressure, 12sec I couldn't replicate this, as the bus takes a bit of cranking to start when it has sat for 2 weeks!
Idle pressure, 35psi 38psi
Oil pressure under power with engine cold, 58psi (approx) 58psi
Gentle driving until temp coming up, then quite hard driving. Hills and 70mph on dual carriageway. Bus has Automatic transmission.
Time to reach 100degC (212F) on gauge, about 18 min 14 min. Maybe this is because the thermostat flaps are working now!?
First stop point:
Oil press at 70mph, 38psi 35psi
Temp gauge, 105C (221F) 110c (230F)
Oil filter temp 102C (215F) 102/215
Idle pressure, 12psi approx 4psi
Second stop:
Oil pressure uphill at 55mph, 35psi 30psi
Temp gauge, 110C (230F) *Save my bus warning light flickering 115/240
Oil filter temp, 112.5C (235F) 115/240
Idle pressure, 8psi approx 4psi
Third stop:
Oil pressure uphill at 55mph, 30psi 25psi
Temp gauge, 115C (240F) *save my bus flickering more strongly 115/240
Oil filter temp, 112.5C (235F) 118/244 (!)
Idle pressure, 7psi approx 1psi (oil light NOT lit)[/b] _________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 6:02 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Changing subject from the engine!...
I washed the flies from the Kombi this morning and, instead of waxing the paint, I thought I would have a look at the rust spot I had noticed where the pop-top contacts the metalwork of the roof. It is 'protected' by a fabric strip, which I guess over time has held water and dirt (plenty of dirt!) and started to rust.
So far, I have peeled the fabric off, and I am cleaning up to expose the problem. There is certainly a trail of rust spots. I don't know how deep. I think I will drill out the rivets that hold on the awning rail so that I can get the best access.
My plan then is to grind off the rust, and if it is not too deep, to paint over with a rust treatment paint. If it is deep... I don't want to think about that yet.
_________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Spike0180 Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2015 Posts: 2269 Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:30 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Get out the wire wheel. Can't tell how deep it goes till you get rid of the rust on top. Good luck. _________________ Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic" |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Spike0180 Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2015 Posts: 2269 Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:48 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Get out an angle grinder, or spend more time with your wire wheel. You have to get it to where the metal is shinny. Like new. Then look into treating it and seeing what you have to work with. I would think that you can probably delay that for a while before welding as long as you know it is a temporary fix and will need addressed in the near future, it is only going to get worse without replacing the metal. _________________ Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic" |
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1970fun Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2008 Posts: 209 Location: Holland
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:34 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Mmm... not very nice Phil, but i'm sure if you treat it right it can wait until the winter sets in.
And if it is all fixed and painted then i would use 3m paint protection film for rubbing protection of the roof.
Don't use that water trap cloth type again. |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:51 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Thanks both for the advice.
To be honest, I'm a bit despondent. This is worse than any rust I've treated before and it's really difficult to find a Bodyshop locally that can deal with the work. The guy I have used before is winding up his business and might not be keen to take it on. I can see that if the pop-top needs to come off there's a whole new level of complexity .
Anyhow, I'm ploughing on with the tools and skills I have at my disposal . I don't have a great selection of grinding wheels, and it's a pretty confined space to get in to. I ended up using a rough grinding pad on an electric drill, which has done quite well. I realise I will need to take a wider margin, but I am being cautious at the moment. I am seeing bare metal and there are four areas with pinholes right through. I guess I need to take it a little deeper?
Any suggestions for what type of grinder disc would work best here?
_________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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Abscate Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2014 Posts: 22668 Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Phil...stop right there , treat it with POR, primer and paint
That will buy you 5 years or more. Remember , you can keep that area dry, which is the key.
Don't let that stop you on your trips!! _________________ .ssS! |
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Spike0180 Samba Member
Joined: June 06, 2015 Posts: 2269 Location: Detroit, Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 7:13 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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Abscate wrote: |
Phil... ... ... treat it with POR, primer and paint
That will buy you 5 years or more. Remember , you can keep that area dry, which is the key.
Don't let that stop you on your trips!! |
x2
That looks much better cleaned. Like abscate said, treat it and keep it dry. It will buy you some time for now. That really doesn't look that bad.
Suggestions:
1) if you can clean up the upper area of picture 4 by that rail, it could be good.
2) And in picture 5 if you can get rid of the orange in the pits with some form of wire wheel (don't want to go through any more metal) a bit better it would be good.)
Do you plan on plugging the holes with something to prevent any water from coming in? _________________ Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp
Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic" |
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mcdonaldneal Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 2649 Location: Gullane, Scotland
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Posted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 6:35 am Post subject: Re: 'Let's Go! Scotland-Croatia and onwards in our Kombi!' |
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It's been a pretty wet week here in Scotland and my garage isn't tall enough to work on the roof inside. Today was the first dry day, so I drove out into the sun.
Ideally, I would prep and treat the inside of the panel where the rust is but, after exposing various layers of hammock, vinyl and laminate I discovered that there is a secondary skin panel between the outer roof and the inside which makes it impossible to access. The last pic in this set shows the screw holding down the vinyl top which appears on the inside.
This left me a bit of a dilemma. By definition any repair at this stage is temporary, especially as I can only treat one side. POR is a good, tough, rust covering paint but not UV stable. I was going to use a grey, general rust treatment paint but I made a last minute decision (against some trusted advice) to go with the POR and to paint over the top of it, which you can do once it has cured.
My last task was to remove the aluminium awning strip, which was attached with weird rivets that couldn't be drilled through, so I just drilled the top off instead!
Plenty of flash rust had formed during the week but I cleaned it off, prepared with phosphoric acid, dried thoroughly and painted with black POR. It looks cosmetically horrible at this stage but will actually be covered by paint eventually, and is mostly covered by the pop-top roof.
I can't know if I've done the right thing here, but the main goal is to slow down the rust progression. I'm hoping once it's painted and the holes filled it will have bought me time.
_________________ 1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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