Replacing oil cooler

[ChrisFred]

Hey I am looking at a bus and it needs a new oil cooler. I've heard you can even do this without removing the engine. Is ther a tutorial page/video? The only info I find is on replacing the oil cooler seals...

[Wildthings]

You should verify that the oil cooler actually needs replacing, what is supposed to be wrong with it? If this is a Type 4 engine then a leak problem is more likely a leaky oil pressure switch than a problem with the cooler or cooler seals.

[aerosurfer]

Thats fine.. the oli cooler seals are between the oil cooler and engine (assuming a T4 motor) just use those directions to remove the cooler too
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[aeromech]

We need to know the year of your bus because there are a couple different kinds of engines.
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[Wasted youth]

If it's a late Bay Window bus with a Type 4 engine, you will need to remove these pieces:

So you can get to here:

The most difficult problems I had were 1) Dealing with the bottom sheetmetal screw of the tin that is in from the top of the fan. The muffler blocks access to this, and 2) Wrestling with one of the alternator bolts. But, yes, you can do this without removing the engine.

Then, you can test your cooler like I did to see where (or if!) the actual leak is on the cooler...or is it the seals that are leaking?

[jonneeb]

[tractoman]

Should really use a better quality filter than Fram.
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Mike
'75 Westy

[sun-bug74]

Hi Folks:

I am likely going to pull the parts shown above and have a look at the oil cooler. I have ruled out the oil pressure sensor and the oil filter connector as culprits. Can someone tell me a) what tool I need to pull the fan from the shaft, and b) what type of sealant is used when the two large fan housing pieces shown above are mated back to the engine case and to each other? It looks like there is purple residue on those two large pieces and I want to be prepared when it is time to reinstall.

Also, does anyone have an estimate on the time it will take to get everything off?

Thanks.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[timvw7476]

that fan is released via three 13mm hex bolts. So a socket & extension does it. The hub remains on the crank snout, has a locating dowel.
The fan shroud remains intact, no need to separate the front & back halves.
The oil fill tube. Helps to remove that to work the fan shroud off the studs, four of them, hidden behind the fan, Also 13mm. Nuts & washers.
Estimate: Four & 1/2 hours, beginning to end. There is no sealant or gasket between the blower shroud & crankcase studs. None between shroud halves either.
EDIT: there is one 13mm bolt in the hub center, you leave that one alone, it mounts the hub flange to the crank snout. Just loosen the three others that are not threaded directly into the crank snout.

[sun-bug74]

Thanks. Very helpful. 4.5 hours to get it open, replace the cooler and seals, and get it all back together or 4.5 hours one way?
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver

[timvw7476]

[wrxnofx]

[sun-bug74]

I also found that seal at Bus Depot and it is on the way. Thanks.
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1978 Bay Window Bus, AC Vanagon Motor, Daily Driver