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"Gravity/air pressure" flooding those at altitude?
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good stuff, thanks. The confusion on what I should have stock continues.
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Do you have any pictures or links to these valves?


The Bentley and Haynes manuals have photos and diagrams of them.

From thesamba gallery, an external cutoff valve:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


According to the Haynes manuals, the pumps like the OP's with the inscription "PE 20000" have internal cutoff valves, but the earlier ones with
"VW, 15" do not. That's talking about VW pumps (with VW logo, etc), I don't know whether that would apply to similar-looking Brosol pumps.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
... since the early '60's, VW either incorporated a cutoff valve in the fuel pumps or used a separate external cutoff valve..


Do you have any pictures or links to these valves?
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll start yet another search to see what the TS collective deems trustworthy pumps!
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine were all Pierburg ones. I think the other ones are newer replacements
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cute. That's because I took it off to pry the hose off on the side of the road to troubleshoot before scorching on asphalt and bathing in fuel, thus leaving it off and in pieces once I got it home to investigate (see earlier posting).

So, would the Brosol (as stamped on the side) be an original?

I'm learning VWs are A LOT like Jeeps. Better be mechanically adept and carry AAA for the back up.


Last edited by Fredrok on Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well it looks like a brosal pump without a hose clamp on it. Smile
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the suggestion. Here's the pump, looks like a cleaned up original?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I see WW offers a rebuild kit for $30, however my question would be if that was the cause, why not all the time instead of just full? Thank you!
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needle valves, such as the ones in the carb, are really not to be thought of as shutoff valves, they are mainly
flow regulating devices. That's why, at least since the early '60's, VW either incorporated a cutoff valve in
the fuel pumps or used a separate external cutoff valve. Tank pressure does not affect the operation of
those cutoffs. It seems you either don't have one (many aftermarket pumps are lacking this feature) or the one
in your pump is defective. There are "rebuild kits" available for some early VW/Pierburg fuel pumps, but the
quality is unfortunately very questionable.
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great question Barry and unknown. I did find some specs but I've seen no confirmation for continuous duty. (mine was stamped for 12vDC)

http://www.seekpart.com/product/water-valve-2W025-08-3362084.html
http://www.tradeindia.com/fp1173234/Solenoid-Valve-2w-025-08.html
http://www.chinapropneumatic.com/products/2W025-08-Solenoid-Valve-827797.html
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fredrok wrote:
I'm thinking a thermal issue now.


Without rereading all the past discussion on the valve, is it rated for continuous duty?
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Barry, I considered some form of debris as a possibility and removed the barbs to inspect at the time. I was unable to see anything however, after sitting on my bench for a few hours, it now works much better (but not like it did new). I'm thinking a thermal issue now.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A tiny piece of rubber calved off the hose? Sometimes when hose is first pushed on any fitting a tiny chaff-shave bit will get inside.
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An FYI for anyone interested, this shut off solenoid got me 45 miles total before shitting the bed today leaving me sandwiched between the pavement and frame while I bypassed it.

I pulled it when I got home and tested directly to battery and instead of a "clunk" it had when new, it was just a "click". When it's "on" there's just barely a flow of air I'm able to push through now as opposed to an easy flow new.

No good deed goes unpunished.
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha, right on guys thanks!
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fredrok wrote:
(what's sano?)


sano = sanitary

I'm allowed to use it in my speech pattern sparingly such that I fly under the criticism limbo-line.
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sano = clean.

More (I didn't know all of this so worth a read):
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Sano
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The unit on the right is the one out of the carb that I reinstalled, Considering that the screws securing the top of the carb (and needle/seat) weren't even compressing the lock washers, I'm pretty satisfied with the theory that it was creating just enough distance between the float and not shutting off completely. Gasket was compressed "just enough" I guess.

I had those barbs in the garage and will likely change them later to the smooth type as I have more hose on order now anyway. I was 1" too short to complete the job and had to reorder (story of my life).

Thanks Barry! (what's sano?)


Last edited by Fredrok on Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is weird about the needle/seat. The one on the right is a nice design fwiw.

I'm not a fan of the barbs which stress the hose when using factory hose plus they propagate cuts/cracks in the hose. If it were on my fuel train I'd sand those flat and try to get it down to 6mm diameter.

Still, a sano set up.
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Fredrok
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:21 am    Post subject: Follow up Reply with quote

Well, I pulled the carb, tapped the fuel inlet and installed a threaded nipple (needed to drill with 7/32 drill to get the tap to go deep enough). The needle/seat I pulled seems to work good when blowing air through it and closing. No wear on float tab and float is perfect. Unfortunately, replacing the needle with the one in the universal kit was going to happen:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I bent the tab on the float just a smidge and put it back together. THEN noticed the screws weren't seating all the way before they got tight. The through holes weren't tapped completely. Could have been the issue all along if the needle wasn't seating all the way.

At any rate, installed the fuel solenoid, added an aluminum filter before the solenoid and added all new fuel hose with fuel injection clamps on pressure side. FWIW, I measured the amperage of this solenoid that you get from JOGR and it's 1.2A for the initial hit and draw bleeds down to .9A. I'm a fan of relays also, but then you create more failure points as well. At that amperage, it works fine off of the extra tab on the 12V side of coil.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by Fredrok on Wed Aug 06, 2014 4:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
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