"Gravity/air pressure" flooding those at altitude?

[Fredrok]

Good stuff, thanks. The confusion on what I should have stock continues.

[kreemoweet]

[BarryL]

[Fredrok]

Thanks, I'll start yet another search to see what the TS collective deems trustworthy pumps!

[mandraks]

mine were all Pierburg ones. I think the other ones are newer replacements
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Uli

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'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[Fredrok]

Cute. That's because I took it off to pry the hose off on the side of the road to troubleshoot before scorching on asphalt and bathing in fuel, thus leaving it off and in pieces once I got it home to investigate (see earlier posting).

So, would the Brosol (as stamped on the side) be an original?

I'm learning VWs are A LOT like Jeeps. Better be mechanically adept and carry AAA for the back up.

[mandraks]

well it looks like a brosal pump without a hose clamp on it.
_________________
regards

Uli

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'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[Fredrok]

Thank you for the suggestion. Here's the pump, looks like a cleaned up original?

I see WW offers a rebuild kit for $30, however my question would be if that was the cause, why not all the time instead of just full? Thank you!

[kreemoweet]

Needle valves, such as the ones in the carb, are really not to be thought of as shutoff valves, they are mainly
flow regulating devices. That's why, at least since the early '60's, VW either incorporated a cutoff valve in
the fuel pumps or used a separate external cutoff valve. Tank pressure does not affect the operation of
those cutoffs. It seems you either don't have one (many aftermarket pumps are lacking this feature) or the one
in your pump is defective. There are "rebuild kits" available for some early VW/Pierburg fuel pumps, but the
quality is unfortunately very questionable.
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[Fredrok]

Great question Barry and unknown. I did find some specs but I've seen no confirmation for continuous duty. (mine was stamped for 12vDC)

http://www.seekpart.com/product/water-valve-2W025-08-3362084.html
http://www.tradeindia.com/fp1173234/Solenoid-Valve-2w-025-08.html
http://www.chinapropneumatic.com/products/2W025-08-Solenoid-Valve-827797.html

[BarryL]

[Fredrok]

Thanks Barry, I considered some form of debris as a possibility and removed the barbs to inspect at the time. I was unable to see anything however, after sitting on my bench for a few hours, it now works much better (but not like it did new). I'm thinking a thermal issue now.

[BarryL]

A tiny piece of rubber calved off the hose? Sometimes when hose is first pushed on any fitting a tiny chaff-shave bit will get inside.

[Fredrok]

An FYI for anyone interested, this shut off solenoid got me 45 miles total before shitting the bed today leaving me sandwiched between the pavement and frame while I bypassed it.

I pulled it when I got home and tested directly to battery and instead of a "clunk" it had when new, it was just a "click". When it's "on" there's just barely a flow of air I'm able to push through now as opposed to an easy flow new.

No good deed goes unpunished.

[Fredrok]

Haha, right on guys thanks!

[BarryL]

[EverettB]

Sano = clean.

More (I didn't know all of this so worth a read):
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Sano
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[Fredrok]

The unit on the right is the one out of the carb that I reinstalled, Considering that the screws securing the top of the carb (and needle/seat) weren't even compressing the lock washers, I'm pretty satisfied with the theory that it was creating just enough distance between the float and not shutting off completely. Gasket was compressed "just enough" I guess.

I had those barbs in the garage and will likely change them later to the smooth type as I have more hose on order now anyway. I was 1" too short to complete the job and had to reorder (story of my life).

Thanks Barry! (what's sano?)

[BarryL]

That is weird about the needle/seat. The one on the right is a nice design fwiw.

I'm not a fan of the barbs which stress the hose when using factory hose plus they propagate cuts/cracks in the hose. If it were on my fuel train I'd sand those flat and try to get it down to 6mm diameter.

Still, a sano set up.

[Fredrok]

Well, I pulled the carb, tapped the fuel inlet and installed a threaded nipple (needed to drill with 7/32 drill to get the tap to go deep enough). The needle/seat I pulled seems to work good when blowing air through it and closing. No wear on float tab and float is perfect. Unfortunately, replacing the needle with the one in the universal kit was going to happen:

I bent the tab on the float just a smidge and put it back together. THEN noticed the screws weren't seating all the way before they got tight. The through holes weren't tapped completely. Could have been the issue all along if the needle wasn't seating all the way.

At any rate, installed the fuel solenoid, added an aluminum filter before the solenoid and added all new fuel hose with fuel injection clamps on pressure side. FWIW, I measured the amperage of this solenoid that you get from JOGR and it's 1.2A for the initial hit and draw bleeds down to .9A. I'm a fan of relays also, but then you create more failure points as well. At that amperage, it works fine off of the extra tab on the 12V side of coil.