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New spindles! Link pin kit experience? (PICS)
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: New spindles! Link pin kit experience? (PICS) Reply with quote

I finally got my torsion arms put on, just need to weld the outter leaves. As of now I am getting ready to put my new dropped and welded spindles on. Looks to me like some of my old link pins are pretty shot and scored.

I've been exploring manuals and older threads on here but didn't see anything recent, most threads were 2001 and some a little newer. Has anyone tried these WW link pin kits?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211498041A

Aside from a new link pink kit, and what came with my spindles, is anything needed that I am overlooking (as far as just the spindles and torsion arms)? I am placing an order with Wolfsburg within the next day or two.

Thanks in advance. Happy Holiday !

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durfeec
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like everything is there. You wont need the caps though. Also don't throw away the old ones. They may be good. They should be mic'd to see if they are in spec.
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't see the link pin bearings sold separately anywhere. I was curious if I should be the kit or try to use my old ones?? Aside from one of them having some crusty surface rust they look like a decent set.
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if they sell them separately. My guess is no. You've got a new beam and rebuilt spindles. Finish the job and buy new link pins and be done with the front end completely.

I just meant to either keep them around for spares, I tend to do that with everything, even useless stuff. Or sell them to someone that may only need 1 decent link pin. When I did my old bus, I ended up buying one link pin from Widefive because all the others were fine.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They look good on my screen but that's several hyperspaces away from reality. How are the needle bearings? Usually you can flip the links and cages around and get the best surfaces for the loads part. They spin in to tighten up. New ones are great if the material is as good as German or close.

You'll need a full set of good shims and the shim chart to set it up parallel which is easy but follow the procedure.
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! I just ordered the link pin set which looks to come with all the shims. I wonder if they'll come with a chart? Or is there a good resource online somewhere? Thanks for the help!
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let Google become your best friend.
http://www.wagenswest.com/how_to/how_to_install_flip_spindles.php
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durfeec wrote:
Let Google become your best friend.
http://www.wagenswest.com/how_to/how_to_install_flip_spindles.php


or better even let me google that for you Smile

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+install+flip+spindels
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joe cool
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I suggest that you have an excellent resource in Sacramento called Kombihaus? I do my own work whenever I can, but when in doubt I seek the expertise of Justin and his VW certified crew. When it is a lifelong ACVW fanatic and OVP member wrenching on your bus you know you are in good hands. Parts are available at great prices, too.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:31 am    Post subject: Re: New spindles! Link pin kit experience? (PICS) Reply with quote

electronictofu wrote:


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The lower link pin looks like garbage.
See the rust on the right side, the side near the mushroom cap? That is where the needle bearings ride. You can also see grooves worn in. It should be a perfectly smooth surface.

A link pin should be kept together with its needle bearing and outer needle bearing race.

The spindles should be greased every 3K miles, or every year, whichever comes first.
The link pins should be adjusted every 6K miles.

There is a chart in the Idiot book on where to arrange the shims. Also in the Bentley manual
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durfeec wrote:
Looks like everything is there. You wont need the caps though. Also don't throw away the old ones. They may be good. They should be mic'd to see if they are in spec.


Those spindles are a little different, you should be able to use every piece of hardware that came off the old setup, including the caps.
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campingbox wrote:
durfeec wrote:
Looks like everything is there. You wont need the caps though. Also don't throw away the old ones. They may be good. They should be mic'd to see if they are in spec.


Those spindles are a little different, you should be able to use every piece of hardware that came off the old setup, including the caps.


Got it. Welded not flipped. Just assumed they were flipped.
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw that link a while back, I forgot about it. My spindles are the welded ones, I guess that would require a different install? I have an order coming soon and have most of what I need already. I should be able to figure it out when I get my new link pin kit. Just not positive on shims and such.
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same install. Same shim chart. Flipped, welded, stock, doesn't matter. The difference would be the flipped ones you cannot run the caps due to clearance. But welded ones you can because they are the same as stock.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

electronictofu wrote:
Just not positive on shims and such.


It feels intimidating but the concept is to make the faces on the trailing arms of the area that the link pins slide into parallel with their mating faces on the spindles so when they travel up and down they don't bind nor bind when you assemble them.

Unlike ball joints that can swing in infinite directions the link pin system can only swing up and down so all the travel planes must be perfectly parallel with each other.


This might confuse you or it might help:

Imagine two guys that can only throw Frisbees exactly at right angles to their bodies. They face each other and each one has a trash can whose upper lip is parallel with their individual flight paths.

Each guy has to have a fixed amount of shims placed under and over his shoes until the frisbees when tossed at the other guy's can won't hit the trash can but will just barely skim across the top.

They use a long straight edge placed on the highest trash can then measure the gap at the other trash can to figure out how many shims go under their feet then use a chart to figure out how many go on top to use up all the shims.

When they get it right their bodies are perfectly straight up and their flight paths are perfectly lined up so nothing clashes yet they have shims on both sides of their feet.

Now picture them throwing and standing at 90 degrees to the grass. The trash can lips are your trailing arm faces and the guys shoes and feet are the spindle's link pins and shims.

Sheesh.
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
electronictofu wrote:
Just not positive on shims and such.


It feels intimidating but the concept is to make the faces on the trailing arms of the area that the link pins slide into parallel with their mating faces on the spindles so when they travel up and down they don't bind nor bind when you assemble them.

Unlike ball joints that can swing in infinite directions the link pin system can only swing up and down so all the travel planes must be perfectly parallel with each other.


This might confuse you or it might help:

Imagine two guys that can only throw Frisbees exactly at right angles to their bodies. They face each other and each one has a trash can whose upper lip is parallel with their individual flight paths.

Each guy has to have a fixed amount of shims placed under and over his shoes until the frisbees when tossed at the other guy's can won't hit the trash can but will just barely skim across the top.

They use a long straight edge placed on the highest trash can then measure the gap at the other trash can to figure out how many shims go under their feet then use a chart to figure out how many go on top to use up all the shims.

When they get it right their bodies are perfectly straight up and their flight paths are perfectly lined up so nothing clashes yet they have shims on both sides of their feet.

Now picture them throwing and standing at 90 degrees to the grass. The trash can lips are your trailing arm faces and the guys shoes and feet are the spindle's link pins and shims.

Sheesh.


i think you are overthinking frisbee!?
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roberto
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What!? How about you you look at the factory chart. If you have the book it has pics. Take a measurement, and install the correct amount of shims.

Lower table, with the 8 shim config.
http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/linkpinshims.htm
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mandraks wrote:
i think you are overthinking frisbee!?


roberto wrote:
What!?


BarryL wrote:
electronictofu wrote:
Just not positive on shims and such.
This might confuse you or it might help:


BarryL wrote:
Sheesh.


I know; no one throws Frisbee like that anyhow.

The guy didn't have his new parts yet and I know how it feels to sit down for the first time, look at the naked trailing arms and that chart, and be all wtf.

Crappy analogy but I didn't get back in time to erase my post.
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zozo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This helped me. I hope it does the same for you.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, and to get the numbers in the first column, the "offset", hold your straight edge snug across "C" so that it is going up past "A" and measure that gap with a mm ruler or inside calipers. These measurements are against the bare naked trailing arm faces, of course.
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