Securing intake manifolds on 82-Type 4.

[Mark70baja]

Last week I found I had a new problem. Our 82 lost all power under load. Got her home and found the intake manifold on the left side was sucking air at the base big time. Found the nuts had either backed off or had not been properly torqued by PO.

The nuts have flat washers under them. I need to find out if anyone knows if they are supposed to have lock washers rather than the flats. Don't want this happening again.

Thanks ahead of time.
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82 Vanagon with ASI Full Camper Conversion, 2010 Jeep Rubicon

[Randy in Maine]

I can't remember what the torque value is on those little studs, but way washers and some blue loctite would be my suggestion.

[Mark70baja]

Haven't looked yet but I'm sure the Bently has the torque values. Trying to remember back in my type-1 days and believe they all had only flat washers as well. Gonna definitely at least do the lock-tight thing.
_________________
Try talking yours ideas up, without talking other peoples ideas down. Everyone stays much happier that way.

82 Vanagon with ASI Full Camper Conversion, 2010 Jeep Rubicon

[Wasted youth]

Locktite is fine, but the threads need to be very clean, and you will need to re-apply it if you remove the nut. I like using Nylock nuts, or even better- stainless steel Stover nuts. No need for wavy washers, I think flat washers go there anyway.

Whatever you do, do NOT overtorqure, as you risk cracking the phenolic blocks and developing a hard-to-find vacuum leak.

[Wildthings]

This is not a common problem, the nuts tend to seize in place over time if anything. You should change out the phenolic spacers or at least inspect them well and then torque to spec. If the spec isn't give the generic spec for an 8mm 8.8 fastesner should do. Good time to change out your injector seals and the rubber boots between the runnings and the plenum as well.