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Shut off..then no start
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 7:47 am    Post subject: Re: No start Reply with quote

A8 is key-on power into the fuse/relay panel. D15 is some of that power going out of the panel to the engine compartment. So yes, soldering a wire between the black wire at A8 and the black wire at D15 should take care of your problem. Don't cut the A8 wire off though, other things in the panel need it.

Mark


adv rider wrote:
OK, I got to D15-yes its burnt up,and has corrosion on backside from being probed. I am very hopeful at this point,but.. when you mentioned jumper fromA8 to D15, do you mean side to side? D15 is the exit of fuse panel,so I assume it is for A8 also. So I could just solder in a wire between? or did you mean some other type of jump?
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:42 am    Post subject: no start Reply with quote

It sure is hard soldering old wire to new wire. Very ugly clump of solder Embarassed
But it will work for now.some liquid electric tape,and reassembly.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:45 am    Post subject: Re: no start Reply with quote

Yes, it sometimes helps to melt solder to the old wire first, then wrap the new wire over that and solder it all together.

Mark

adv rider wrote:
It sure is hard soldering old wire to new wire. Very ugly clump of solder Embarassed
But it will work for now.some liquid electric tape,and reassembly.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: no start Reply with quote

adv rider wrote:
It sure is hard soldering old wire to new wire. Very ugly clump of solder Embarassed
But it will work for now.some liquid electric tape,and reassembly.


That sounds odd. I use old wire all the time and if the copper is shined up a little, have had no problems. What type of solder did you use? You don't want a "cold" solder joint. One that appears connected but won't pass current.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: solder Reply with quote

It feels tight on the wire,I tried several times to make the solder better.I just started van,and has same voltage on both ends.I don't know about amps though.
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MarkWard
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be good then. Using the correct electrical solder, I melt a little on the tip of my gun and then heat the wire with the tip. I touch the solder to the wire, not the tip to melt it in. If done right, it flows right into the copper with minimal effort. Good luck.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 9:34 am    Post subject: no start Reply with quote

[i Thank you, I need it. Our vacation is counting on the van.leaving for Crankworx on Sunday morning. I learned a bunch with this fix.But it sure was stressful. Now onto the brakes.[/i]
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Merian
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

congrats on finding another VW design deficiency

you know to make a good mechanical junction between the 2 wires before soldering, right?
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merian wrote:
congrats on finding another VW design deficiency

you know to make a good mechanical junction between the 2 wires before soldering, right?


I am not sure i know how to make a good mechanical junction. I just wire brushed the connection area,wrapped the new wire and soldered. covered with liquid electrical tape.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 5:53 pm    Post subject: no start Reply with quote

I just want to give another BIG , THANK YOU! to crazyvwvanman for the knowledge,and patience to be able to guide me through the repair of my van. You saved my vacation. Leaving in morning for Crankworx in Whistler,b.c. . Very Happy Very Happy

Also Thanks to everyone else for the tips/advice.
Hopefully that is the only problem I have for this trip.
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benbear1122
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:41 pm    Post subject: Re: d15 Reply with quote

crazyvwvanman wrote:
If it turns out to be a burned pin D15 then you can jumper around the bad connection. The key switch has a black wire from it to the fuse panel on pin A8 and then it leaves the fuse panel on D15. You can jumper between the black wire on A8 and the black wire on D15. You can't cut the wire to A8 though as it sends power to the fuse panel for other reasons in addition to feeding D15 (and D23).

The VW dealer sells new pins with a short wire attached to them. I don't have the part number handy for the larger pin size so that D23 could be used. That is what we need to do long term, move the black wire from weak pin D15 to heavy pin D23. I will look into that again.

Mark


adv rider wrote:
Ok, I see. Expecting to see a melted D15 in the morning, without seeing everything I cant picture using D23 as an alternative. Is this the best way to go? Can I jump this wire at the fuse panel to make it work?
.....
Would this problem cause an intermittant stall and no start? My 1991 stalls after 10-20 minutes of running and wont restart for 20-30 minutes. In that time ,I lose spark and injector pulse.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: d15 Reply with quote

Yes, it could. The failing pin D15 of the fuse panel has caused a lot of such problems. More tests should be done though. A simple one is to open the black relay box in the engine compartment, left side above the ignition coil. Nothing in there but 2 relays and wires to the relays. Someone should put their fingers on the relays while someone else turnes the key on and off a few times. The relays should be felt to click each time. The relay on the left is turned on from the key over the wire coming from pin D15. If that relay clicks each time then the wire from D15 is doing something and the problem is likely elsewhere. Of course this simple test must be done during that time when the engine has died and won't start.

Mark

benbear1122 wrote:
Would this problem cause an intermittant stall and no start? My 1991 stalls after 10-20 minutes of running and wont restart for 20-30 minutes. In that time ,I lose spark and injector pulse.
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Abscate Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A cold solder joint can lead to intermittent electrical connection and screw up any sensor that uses resistance to measure something - temperature, crank sensor, etc.

The post above described how to avoid this perfectly - apply heat to the cleaned and mechanically connected wires, then apply the solder to the heated wires. If the heated wires flow the solder, you will get a good joint. You can reheat the wires/solder to make sure it flows in well, too.
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adv rider
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:47 pm    Post subject: Re: d15 Reply with quote

My 1991 stalls after 10-20 minutes of running and wont restart for 20-30 minutes. In that time ,I lose spark and injector pulse.[/quote]

I had this problem about 2 month's ago. I replaced the ignition switch, considering I didn't know how old it was. Thought it was fixed... It happened again. I replaced the hall sensor in the distributor- Hasn't stalled since. That was about 1500 miles ago.

EDIT: I am not sure about the spark, injector pulse. I just had a random stalling issue.
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