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vanagon1991 Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Spring Grove, IL
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:10 am Post subject: Removing glue stains from wallpaper fabric |
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Before I get into repairing this I thought I would ask: anyone have to deal with this stain situation? I'm assuming it's glue/adhesive seepage through vinyl. Is it hopeless to clean and I need to pull material off wall?. Was thinking of taking a heat gun to it to re-stretch vinyl fabric as well as well. I'm not to a point of interior work yet put planning ahead.
Same stain is happening through the gray faux leather vinyl on support post just in front of slider door. Thx
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:07 am Post subject: |
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Lee,
Big problem when the contact cement sucks through the vinyl--
You can try some goo-gone, or mineral sprits, but I am positive you aren't going to get the glue stain outa the plastic--it sucked all the way through it--tough one to reverse or remove.
You can try light wipes with lacquer thinner, but you'll soften up the vinyl, and will loosen up the glue under it--not a good idea, and I don't think you'll ever get the stain outa there.
I am sure that this is going to be a mission for some Sem, Mar-Hyde or other vinyl paint materials.
The stuff is available in spray cans---so the fix would be pretty simple.
Terrance Supply in Wheeling, Itasca, Villa Park handles this kind of vinyl dye or paint, plus they have the color books so you can get a good pearl white light grey match.
Your going to have to drive down this way from the middle of nowhere--- _________________ T.K. |
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Gnarlodious Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2013 Posts: 2323 Location: Adobe Jungle USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:48 am Post subject: |
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The only solvent I have ever found that melts the glue is methylene chloride. You get it at plastic stores as it is a solvent for acrylic (plexiglas). Get a metal can with the liquid, not some sort of body filler glue.
I don’t know what effect methylene chloride would have on the cloth, only that it eventually melts the yellow glue on the metal without melting the paint. Methylene chloride is extremely volatile! Meaning it evaporates fast, it is not explosive (a common misconception). The dried-on glue is best softened by soaking with wet cloth against the glue preferably with a plastic sheet for a sealer to prolong the liquid state of the solvent. Heat accelerates the solventization of the glue, a hot day with sun hitting the metal surface makes the solvent work better.
WARNING: Methylene chloride is toxic! Use outdoors with all van windows open preferably with a breeze where you are upwind.
This only works on freshly exposed glue. If you tear out the cloth and light hits the glue for any length of time it becomes impervious to methylene chloride. I found that 2 years of sunlight made the glue impossible to strip with solvent. A few more years of sunlight and the glue actually scrapes off pretty easily, though the paint suffers when you do it that way.
I like the interior as shiny painted metal that I can stick magnets onto, so a good part of my van’s inside is bare metal. Before (ugly):
After (gorgeous German paint!):
_________________ Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:58 am Post subject: |
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I think that Lee is trying to remove the stains from the outside surface of the vinyl ---that has sucked through it with age.
I am confident this isn't going to happen without either melting it, or loosing up the glue under it with solvents.
His Van is Pristine--I think he wants to keep it that way without the interior panels falling off or melting in the process. _________________ T.K. |
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dub84 Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2012 Posts: 129 Location: Victoria
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:21 am Post subject: |
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FWIW I used the purple spray bottle of super clean the other day to remove this clue from my paint... worked perfectly and took everything off. No damage to the paint. Blue interior is now visible |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 7:50 am Post subject: |
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As TK mentioned...dyeing the material a different color will hide the glue, but a distinct difference in hue will be seen up close.
New headliner kits come with new pillar coverings.
That is what I have done to get better looking interiors in the original colors.
Darker dye jobs look okay but no stock and easily notice by purists. |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Oh No---
I'm saying give the area's a even light coat of the same color dye as the vinyl should be.
It'll erase the yellow contact cement look pretty easy, and you won't be able to see it.
It'll be ; "Poof" it's gone. _________________ T.K. |
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vanagon1991 Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Spring Grove, IL
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
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Yes my headliner is mint...it's just all the stuff glued to the wall that looks like this. If it's seeping that means is not only on the surface...but all the way through the vinyl I would assume, which tells me pretty much I can't rub it off the surface -- but it doesn't mean I can't try! I'll most likely have to stain, paint or recover then but trying hard to find another option. Thx for the options guys. _________________ 1991 Tornado Red Vanagon Carat
(2003 Subaru 2.5 conversion/Smallcar kit) |
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SyncroGhia Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009 Posts: 2458 Location: Highnam, UK
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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I have the same issue with my Tristar Doka and 16" Westfalia. All of the original linings have the glue seeping through.
I haven't tried to remove it yet as I'm scared of removing the colour of the weave.
MG _________________ T3 Syncro 16 S6 Westfalia Limey SOLD
T3 Syncro 6x6 SOLD
T3 RS6 Bluestar
T3 Tristar Syncro 16 SOLD
T3 Tristar Syncro RHD SOLD |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:19 am Post subject: |
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As mentioned--be real careful what you try and get that glue color outa there with---
If you use too much solvent, or are real rough scrubbing , you'll wind up softening up the vinyl, or releasing the glue that's holding it to the sides of the Van.
Then you'll have another headache besides the yellow contact cement showing. _________________ T.K. |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Heat is what will do this.
Leaving the vehicle in the sun and having the internal temp rocket will shrink the moldings, discolor stuff....
The pillar pieces are not part of the headliner and can be R&R'd without hurting the headliner.
Yes the windows should come out to properly do the job, but that isn't hard at all, if you know what you are doing.
The fabric, except the Carat colorway was available.
I bought a roll of it in Europe for my vans.
Dyeing or painting will most definitely be easily seen next to a "mint" headliner. |
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shizzon Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2006 Posts: 596 Location: Boulder, CO
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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I have similarly ugly looking vinyl. I happen to have my van completely torn apart right now (windows will be out next week for a paint job) so had even considered applying new vinyl. Ohh, the rabbit hole...
I wonder if light gray satin from this product would work well?
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP942-Vinyl-Black-Satin/...H9WWRJXPF5 _________________ 1989 Bostig Syncro Westy |
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SyncroBilly Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2014 Posts: 230 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:25 am Post subject: |
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I'm having the same issue around all of my interior plastic lights. I haven't tried anything yet. I was thinking of trying clorox wipes first. Doubt that will work after reading above. |
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vanagon1991 Samba Member
Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 152 Location: Spring Grove, IL
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
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If anyone knows a good thread on how to pull side windows please post. I have yet to come across one. I might do detail rust prevention around exterior window frame as well if that's the case. Thx! _________________ 1991 Tornado Red Vanagon Carat
(2003 Subaru 2.5 conversion/Smallcar kit) |
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insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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vanagon1991 wrote: |
If anyone knows a good thread on how to pull side windows please post. I have yet to come across one. I might do detail rust prevention around exterior window frame as well if that's the case. Thx! |
The fast way, cut the seal off flush and replace.
To retain the seal, it is a two person job, the interior person pushes with their feet and the exterior person supports the assembly so it doesn't go flying.
Starting one corner or both lower corners with a plastic molding tool will not hurt anything and make it much easier.
Going back in, we use grease around the seal and nylon coated wire.
Also best as a two person job. |
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0MajorTom0 Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2014 Posts: 2 Location: SAN DIEGO
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Hey vanagon1991
I had the same issue and tried everything to get the stains out from high power steam cleaning to strong degreasers.
I was also sooo bummed on the stains, and lack of success I had removing them.
Heres what worked for me:
Mr. Clean Magic Erasers. These did by far the best job of lightning the stains. Took allot of scrubbing and the stains where still noticeable but allot less offensive.
The marks although lightened still bothered me I wanted the interior to have a fresh clean look and since I don't shit rolls of coins I knew a new headliner kit was not an option.
Then I came across vinyl dye spray cans. The first one I purchased was from a brand called SEM it was the most recommend brand but I have to say even with multiple coats it just didn't look very good. (I used it in a small area to test)
The next dye I tried was DupliColor spray dye it worked amazing! I believe I used a total of 4 cans to cover 100% of the headliner and front sun visors so that it would have a uniformed look. If you go this route you should prepare to do the entire vehicle not just spot paint.
It was quite a bit of prep work to mask the interior but it was well worth it. |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10250 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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I used 4 or 5 cans of SEM Color Coat vinyl dye. Worked great. I posted it about a month ago. _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Love My Westy Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 1838
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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It makes me glad mine doesn't have the vinyl trim, just paint. It doesn't look like the vinyl trim was an improvement when you see what time does to it. |
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whynotvw Samba Member
Joined: May 04, 2004 Posts: 1322
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Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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try regular gas. if too strong water it down. other stuff might be too strong. |
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alaskadan Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2013 Posts: 1858 Location: anchor pt. alaska
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Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:40 am Post subject: |
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So if you grease the seals prior to going back in that would mean you dont get to put any window sealant on it right? If you use linseed oil it will lube the seal for easier install and cures to create a mild sealant.
How do you water down regular gas?
In the upholstery world I was taught to use white gas to remove glue oil ink and similar things. Evaporates and doesnt leave a smell. It wont hurt paint or dissolve plastic. Be carefull though as stated above too much heat or solvent and you might release the piece altogether.
Dont use a solvent on any glued up vinyl if it has perferations. |
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