Second Bus and First Engine Drop. Need guidance!

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:14 pm Post subject:

OK, thanks, if I went with lash caps, it looks like they would extend the valve length by .06 inches, or 1.5 mm. Would geometry be affected in any way that I couldn't fix by just readjusting the screws?

Can I put them on without taking the valves out?

As for screws, I'm going to check if I have decent ones on my spare engine. If I decide to resurface the ones pictured, and keep an eye on them, how convex a profile should I aim for?

Busdaddy, by spalling are you referring to the facets?
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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

busdaddy · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:44 pm Post subject:

Yes, the little chipped out areas.
The geometry shouldn't change much with caps but it's worth a few minutes to check, easy enough to shim under the rocker towers if it's bad.
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gabbs · Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:12 pm Post subject:

Such a helpful thread. Thanks for this
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whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:57 am Post subject:

Hmmm, so looking at page 1 of this thread, I can see that the valve adjusting screw size appears way different between engines. At least on the slotted end.

The screws on the rockers that I posted most recently (from Engine 2) look way larger. Measured, they are approx 8.5 mm inside threads, 9.8 mm to outside of threads. I haven't had an opportunity to measure the screws from engine 1 yet.

Wildthings you mentioned 1700 originally came with 8 mm screws...

I was expecting them to be the same between engines. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Thanks!

Gabbs, reading your other thread, glad to see you are getting your bus back!
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50348

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:56 am Post subject:

Any major issues using larger screws with smaller 8 mm valves?
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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50348

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:11 pm Post subject:

Waiting for parts to put the top end together; I did not win the race against the fall rains unfortunately.

I am rebuilding the carbs in the meantime (another first), and have a few questions as I go...

1. What is this brown/green stuff that started coming off with carb cleaner, and what should I replace it with?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

2. Do I need to lube the choke and other moving parts? What product should I use?

3. The black rubber-ish fuel diaphragm that came with the Royze kit I got is pretty flimsy compared to the thick red one that's in there. Should I reuse this if there are no tears, or are they a fail-suddenly-you-should-have-replaced-it item?

Thanks!
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Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50348

Tcash · Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:10 pm Post subject:

Electric Choke Heating Element

busdaddy · Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:51 pm Post subject:

From here it looks like the rivets that attach the terminal to the inner heater element came loose and someone attempted a fix using solder and JB weld, messy but possibly OK, if you find the idle high and the gas mileage suffering when driving now and then you'll know they failed.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

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whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 12:01 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys. I will just swap the choke element with one from spare set of carbs that is good.

Almost have both carbs rebuilt. And super clean, thanks to the miracle of Pine-Sol and carb cleaner...

When I am at putting the choke element back on, I can see how I need to align the two marks a la Ratwell:

(http://www.ratwell.com/dotmac/Sites/Parts/PhotoAlbum80.html, 10th photo from end);

But how tight does the coil need to be wound before it engages with the tab on the black choke shaft? Engaging it as it sits unwound and turning the round housing counterclockwise, I only get about 30 degrees of tension, if that makes sense. Is this good or do I wind it a full extra 360?
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

kreemoweet · Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 1:02 pm Post subject:

The element in the choke is not really a "spring", it's a spiral bimetal strip. The only "tension" it needs is just enough to pull the choke butterfly partially closed, which
is almost nothing. You insert the element so the hook on the end is
disengaged from the coke shaft lever, and then turn it until your calibration marks align. Presumably this will set the choke butterfly in a position
suitable for the ambient temperature. When it gets colder, the bimetal will wind up of it's own accord, increasing "tension" and pulling the choke a
little more closed. And so on.
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whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 1:47 pm Post subject:

OK, thanks, I won't wind it any.

-----

I decided to post some random recent photos, because it's nice to not have any questions for a day.

Carbs:

Mock up

Alternator. Can you tell which one is going to go back on the engine?

_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 3:04 pm Post subject:

OK, bench setting up carbs, looks like the idle and throttle gap settings listed in Bentley correspond to the tiny inlets as shown? Probably not a coincidence, but they don’t mention if that as a check in the manual, just lists the gap…

With choke all the way open

With choke all the way closed

Hopefully I have those pictures in the right order.

Is there a way to bench test if the choke is working as it is supposed to? Line on plate is aligned. When I put it into a fully closed position and push the throttle lever all the way in and back, it naturally comes to rest at this position. Is this right?

_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

busdaddy · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 3:41 pm Post subject:

Looks pretty close assuming that's at room temperature, you'll likely have to do some fine tuning once installed.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:42 pm Post subject:

Thanks, that puts my mind at ease. On to the reassembling the left one...
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 2:15 pm Post subject:

Picking away at these, its a busy time of year. Anyways... here's some stuff I've been doing.

I got the left carb cleaned up and put it together to check if everything is working OK. A few issues have come up of course with both of them.

First, this is the seal on the right, pass side, carb. Yes that's light shining through on both sides (is any gas this high up on a carb? I guess the body join line is above the venturi... Either way it can't be good). These rebuild kit gaskets sure are great! I've tried retightening in different orders and jostling the gasket so it sits nicer, but no dice. The left carb was fine but Ill just make my own and hope the spacing measures up OK with the float valve. The kit doesn't come with different spacer washer sizes like the Bentley says are available. On the plus side, both these carbs had been rebuilt in the past with the Royze kit I'm using and they apparently had worked OK...

Second, the fast idle linkages are super worn, which I guess is alright because the tension on this arm is always in one direction, hence the wear. I will keep em greased unless another solution shows up.

Third, my Central Idle Circuit cutoff was hack sawed in half, the plunger removed, and a screw jammed into its place on BOTH sets of carbs i'm working with. As best as I can figure it, this means that adjusting and tweaking will be more difficult or impossible. Great.

Fourth. The choke on the left carb is not working the same as the right. It doesn't want to change positions as easily and it reverts to fully closed (photo below). I've tried setting up the spirally bi-metal strip differently, and messing with the throttle linkage, but it wont stay in that room temperature-half closed position like the right carb in an above post. I will keep messing with these things, im hoping its not due to wear on the saw-tooth thing inside the choke.

Almost...

_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).

Tcash · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:26 pm Post subject:

Have a spot of weld put on it and file it down. Good as new.

whatdoesthisbuttondo? · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject:

I was wondering that, but didn't know if it could be done. Was worried about warp-age, but i'll do it on a big heat sink. Thanks, added to the list!
_________________
Orange 1973 Campervan. Rebuilt 1700cc with dual Solex carbs. Pertronix electronic points on stock distributor. Engine rebuild in progress (fall 2023).


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Second Bus and First Engine Drop. Need guidance!
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