Underside Heater Y replacement - help.....

[andrewtf]

The next major task for my '77 Riviera is to try and get a heating system that will at least push air to the front of my bus. When I purchased the bus the system was essentially non-existent. Both underside 'Y' sections that pass thru the frame - one in the front, and one in the back were rusted nearly into oblivion.

Replacing the one in the front (it has the flapper built into it) is pretty accessible and straight forward.

The one in the rear is another story altogether. This pipe is large at the front side where it inserts thru (and is welded to) the frame, but after the Y part it contains some less than ideal geometry. For each Y leg, the smaller diameter pipe flattens out so it fits over the rear beam (correct term?) and then rounds out again on the other side.

Here is the problem...... the round ends DO NOT FIT over the rear beam. The one leg of the Y that was still hanging around under my bus had to be cut and smashed flat to get it out. How the F#(k is this thing supposed to go in? Only in the factory during assembly? Nothing 'moves' where it has to pass between the rear beam and the bus floor (not to mention there is a whole bunch of other crap hanging around in that space).

My viable options seem to be:
1) Cut it at the flat part, install it from both sides, and try to attach this thing back together (on top of the fixed beam - which seems impossible). I doubt it could be welded in this position/location.
2) Cut it close to the start of the Y before that section passes over the beam and fabricate longer accordion tubes that pass over the rear beam and connect to the shortened Y.
3) Figure it out.
4) Buy a snow suit and apologize to my wife.

Question Part II: How do I fix these back in? Both the front and rear parts need to be very securely fixed in place. The front Y section has the flapper in it, so that takes at lease some 'torque'. The rear one is fairly inaccessible, especially at the legs of the Y, where the original seemed to be tack welded to the underside of the floor. You can barely see a pin hole on the top of each leg, about a third of the way from the ends, where it was presumably tack welded. The large part of the rear one passes thru the frame so that could be welded in place. I can't weld - but I am happy to take it to a shop to get this welded in place. I was thinking of using something like JB Weld to try and secure them.
Bad idea?
Other suggestions?

Here is the part in question (Thanks a ton to Ken @ BusCo):

Once again....~.... help....~...
And as always, Thanks
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'75 Riviera - 'BIG EMMA' (Pan American highway trip paused for a make over)
'77 Riviera - Murphy' (being reborn.... slowly)
'63 Austin Healey

[busdaddy]

Cut it at the flat parts, add a ~2" wide strip to each cut to form a slip joint, slip together in place over the torsion tube and secure with sheet metal screws, plumbers strap and seam sealer. You should be able to do it all with screws from the hardware store and a tube of sealer from NAPA.
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[andrewtf]

Thanks Busdaddy.

Do you think there is any issue with seam sealer and the amount heat (as in high temperature) running thru, and right next to, this?



On a side note: Can we nominate Busdaddy for sainthood? knighthood? Nobel prize?

Shit we all owe him debts that are not re-payable.
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'75 Riviera - 'BIG EMMA' (Pan American highway trip paused for a make over)
'77 Riviera - Murphy' (being reborn.... slowly)
'63 Austin Healey

[oshima]

[SGKent]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[andrewtf]

Skills -
I think of you more as a taint than a saint.

But your close... so that's at least something.




( Kidding you know..... I hope)
_________________
'75 Riviera - 'BIG EMMA' (Pan American highway trip paused for a make over)
'77 Riviera - Murphy' (being reborn.... slowly)
'63 Austin Healey

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[sebgi1]

I cut it at the round part, cut the lips each side about an inch and use 2 silicone hose 2” long and stainless clamps and whatever sealant or sealer you want. Works great!
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SEB

Dogs are the most precious and valuable possession of mankind. VWs are second!

'73 Neptune blue safare camper
'71 Neptune blue tintop

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

This stuff claims is rated for 500*F
https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Products-76C-500-Degree-10-3-Ounce/dp/B000DZBLNC

Or

What about that copper RTV stuff?

Or

Standard JB Weld can handle 500*F as well. Used some to fix up the bakelite tubes for my bug's heating system. Worked very well, no smell that I can tell once it cured up.

Don't use the JBWeld 'kwik-weld' it's only rated for 300*F or so
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