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Most efficient way to get 100hp at 5000 feet
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veedubfreak59
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:52 am    Post subject: Most efficient way to get 100hp at 5000 feet Reply with quote

Ok, so before I get started, let me first state my goals for the car.
It's a 58 ragtop that is going to be a weekend runner and my goal is to be able to scoot around town with minimal issues.
I live in CO and from time to time enjoy taking my rides up the mountains, so I am trying to determine the best configuration for the car. I'm assuming, probably wrongly, that 100hp is a fairly easy target to hit these days. But, what is the best way to go about it without completely breaking the bank. I don't have a budget in mind. I'm mainly trying to get an idea of how much money I need to put towards it and at least a rough idea of what I should be building.

Thanks.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1915, w120, 40 idfs with 32 vents, ported 40x35 heads, Simple, easy to build, affordable.
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smitty24
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

why 100 hp? Is that the magic number?? What kind of mileage do you want? Daily driver? Family hauler? how much weight is in the car? Are you building engine or buying complete? Going into the mountains much?

Ive done a handful of smaller performance engines and liked most of them. Good mileage, good power, reliable. Don't need tinkering as much as bigger engines.

I used to live in Denver, but Utah now. Air is real thin. The 32s might be too big for a lot of engines. You want the air velocity higher than sea level. I would do a 1776 with Weber 40s/ 28 vents. Stock valved heads with port cleanups, like John's L3. (You are in CO, you want heater boxes). 1 3/8 header, single or dual QP depending on preference. I like both. Ive used Engle cams but prefer Web. Engle 100 is nice and torquey with the above combo.

Thick wall 1835 will also do well.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1915 with a dash adjustable fuel injection system and an AFR gauge on the dash. You can adjust the cruise mixture as you go though altitude changes. You won't even notice the elevation change then.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

even if A/F was perfect, you notice the elevation because there is less air. Many guys at sea level have no idea how dramatic the change can be.

It used to be comical to see the sea level guys making excuses about the elevation in Vegas, slowing their cars down. For us it was a huge increase in power compared to what we were used to.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
even if A/F was perfect, you notice the elevation because there is less air. Many guys at sea level have no idea how dramatic the change can be.

It used to be comical to see the sea level guys making excuses about the elevation in Vegas, slowing their cars down. For us it was a huge increase in power compared to what we were used to.


It's funny you mention Vegas. I just got back from Racing a 2000 class buggy in the Vegas to Reno. Won first in class. It was also the first time we changed the jet mid-race and felt more power for sure. Sure there is going to be some loss but if the jetting or AFR is right on it is much less noticable.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
even if A/F was perfect, you notice the elevation because there is less air. Many guys at sea level have no idea how dramatic the change can be.

It used to be comical to see the sea level guys making excuses about the elevation in Vegas, slowing their cars down. For us it was a huge increase in power compared to what we were used to.


even the sea level guys coming up to Palmdale when LACR was still around was hilarious... Palmdale,CA (around 2,000 ft. Elev)
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well at the elevation where I had the engine dyno at 5600 feet ended up with 67.4 hp to the ground 89.7 ft lbs torque.
Engine ~ 1776cc Scat C-25 cam, heads 40 35.5 valves ported polished, 1.4 ratio rockers, dual Kadron 40's. Still have heater boxes.
If you factor in transmission losses elevation etc. probably 90hp at the flywheel. At sea level who knows. It has plenty of gitty up and go for me.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those idiots never realized that our cars were also faster at sea level... LOLZ

VWporscheGT3 wrote:
even the sea level guys coming up to Palmdale when LACR was still around was hilarious... Palmdale,CA (around 2,000 ft. Elev)

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woodsbuggy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, a dash adjustable system with only AFR feedback would be scary at best. If you are unable to datalog and monitor other important functions then bad things can and will happen.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why dash adjustable? If you are going fuel injection, go chose a decent box that will run closed loop (with an oxygen sensor.) Then you do not have to worry about the mix.
Murzi is about right. I would choose another camshaft though, especially at altitude.
But done right such a 1914 can produce 120 sealevel hp easy.

This is a 1914 with similar heads done by me, and with dual 40 Dells.: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1205306.jpg
But less will do too Wink

T
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RailBoy
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

5,000 feet is above Denver altitude..... 1 Mile up over sea level... RB
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Closed loop only works for idle and cruise - but a properly set up EFI will compensate for changes in air pressure.

You do know that supercharging was originally invented for aircraft, as the air gets very thin at flying altitudes?
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quokka42 wrote:
Closed loop only works for idle and cruise
It's true that closed loop generally doesn't react quick enough to deal with the sudden flow changes (at shift points). But closed loop can work very well during periods of WOT. Mine does.

Max
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veedubfreak59
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I am in Denver. I do make at least a few trips up to blackhawk a year cause it's a really nice cruise up through the mountains. Took my 11 TDI up Pike's Peak last summer and by the time I was up to about 10k even it was damn near out of breath.

I picked 100hp because why not. Seemed like a good target. This car will likely not have heater boxes as the heater channels are shot and most likely won't ever get driven if it's below 50 outside. This will purely be a weekend cruiser.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get back some of the power taken away by the altitude simply by running a higher compression ratio. It may not be happy at lower altitudes but if the car will always be driven close to home ...

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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MURZI wrote:
1915, w120, 40 idfs with 32 vents, ported 40x35 heads, Simple, easy to build, affordable.


I second this combo. Pretty easy to build and will give you tons of usable power.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quokka42 wrote:
Closed loop only works for idle and cruise - but a properly set up EFI will compensate for changes in air pressure.

You do know that supercharging was originally invented for aircraft, as the air gets very thin at flying altitudes?


Ok. Maybe I did not explain myself correct. I meant what Quokka is saying. ECU
The TDI was out of breath ??? It should have compensated for a good deal of the altidude by itself. That´s normally one of the advantages of using turbo engines. I suggest you get your MAF sensor, pressure sensor and O2 sensor checked.

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veedubfreak59
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
Quokka42 wrote:
Closed loop only works for idle and cruise - but a properly set up EFI will compensate for changes in air pressure.

You do know that supercharging was originally invented for aircraft, as the air gets very thin at flying altitudes?


Ok. Maybe I did not explain myself correct. I meant what Quokka is saying. ECU
The TDI was out of breath ??? It should have compensated for a good deal of the altidude by itself. That´s normally one of the advantages of using turbo engines. I suggest you get your MAF sensor, pressure sensor and O2 sensor checked.

Back to subject.
T


By out of breath, I mean I could feel how much it was down on power compared to just scooting around town. Had to actually keep it up around 2500+ rpms to actually have power. Poor girl only has 280lb/ft of torque at sea level, at 14000 it's a bit lower Smile Bonus pic
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a '58 ragtop also & live in Morrison. I had a 1914 in it which was basically just 94mm jugs on a stock 1600 with dual Kads and a sidewinder. It was like driving a Briggs & Stratton, but had more than enough torque and no problem keeping up with (or passing) traffic while getting over any of the passes heading West on 70 and died of a fading wrist pin around 5-6K miles...

So, it got set aside and replaced with a 1904. 8-1cr, Los Panchito heads, Web 163 cam, Dell 36's, Vintage Speed exhaust. I'd guess it's somewhere close to 100-hp and is great fun to drive. If I were to do it over, I'd bump the compression to 9.5-1 for our altitude.

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