where should I start with my 1776 44idf setup?

[NAES]

First off I apologize for starting another thread and not having all the needed information. I will be digging into the carbs tomorrow and want a better idea of where I should start when it comes to tuning these things. Right now Im fighting them but I wont give up.

1960 bus
straight axle. 3.88 r&p
195/55ģ15 tires
I didnt build the engine so here goes
1776
stock heads/valves
"Mild cam" which is unknown
A1 exhaust
Dual Weber 44idfs
roller cam pump style
unknown internals until tomorrow
bosch 009
pertronix

Carbs were set up by a local guy but Im not satisfied and neither is he. No power past the idle circuit. Popping, etc. A full tear down and inspection with my own 2 eyeballs will be the only way im sure what I have.


Im starting from scratch.
Measure fuel pressure
set floats.
check all jets and passages for clogging and proper size
*i need a venturi starting size, idle jet and main jet starting point.

then sync them without the linkage.
then set up the linkage.

thats my plan. If theres anything else you all recommend please add to the thread. Thank you in advance and Ill update my progress or lack thereof!

NAES
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[Danwvw]

Sounds like too much carb for stock heads on the small displacement engine. I would take a look to see if you can see what venturi size the 44's have in them. Your going to need to reduce to about 30mm for it to even begin to tune right. Let us know the sizes:
Main Jet,
Idle Jet,
Air correction,
Venturi,
What are you using for a fuel pump and pressure regulator, Fuel Pressure?
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[NAES]

Agreed im overcarbed but they are what I have so theyre what Ill be running for now. Downsizing in the future if needed

pump is an electric Holley. No regulator ATM but ill be measuring fuel pressure and regulating if needed to ensure im under 4lbs.
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[vwracerdave]

Downsize now and get it running correctly. The money you save in fuel cost for a correctly running engine will offset the cost of getting the correct 40 IDF's
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[bugguy1967]

X2 on 30mm vent size, or at least 32s.

[jfats808]

To get it to run remotely with power, youll have to fatten the jetting. It unavoidable, but the downside is poor gas mileage. For a little while and since I bought a cheap 44 hpmx set, I ran it on a stock 1776, stock cam, stock heads and cr. It ran a hell of a lot better than the progressive and had better mileage even so. You can try and like the others mentioned, downsize the vent and rejet. List your jetting. Id start with a 60/140/200 and go from there.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[rustybusjef]

Don't be afraid of 44IDF's , I ran them on stock 1600 for over 12 years with much success . They could idle at 750 rpm's and still cruise at over 90 mph . I have them on my 2332 now and they still work great . I was running 36 mm
venturis and 50 idles ,f11s and 175 air correction with 150 mains.

[NAES]

Thank you so much everyone. Ill at least be able to dive in there and see what im working with.

Ill report back with what i have and what I ended up with.
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[smitty24]

Your combo is VERY similar to what I was running in my 1679cc bus. Except I was using twin 40s with 28mm vents. I think you want a 28 or 30mm vent MAX, for most low end punch. You are in a bus, where you want more low end balls. Upper rpm speed is not necessary is most buses. "Mild cam and stock valves" have small vents all over them! Im not sure if anyone makes a custom 44IDF vent that is a 28. Big vents in a heavy bus with a small engine sucks!

[NAES]

Hey everyone, thanks so much for the feedback. I got in there yesterday and started from scratch. Checked all passages and jets. Ultrasonic cleaned them and visually looked through everything I could. No more popping, they open together perfectly, etc. Off the line they have plenty of punch. There's a big flat spot in what I assume to be the transition portion from idles to main jets that gets better as I pass through it. But there is definitely some more potential that I have not tapped just yet so I'll continue to play away using the advice I'm getting from you all. Here's the specs thus far

32mm Venturis
50 Idles (stamped, not physically measured)
F11 emulsion tubes
130 mains (stamped, not physically measured)
175 air correction jets (stamped, not physically measured)
Bosch 009 with Pertronix at 30* total advance
Fuel pressure is 3.5 using a Holley electric pump.

From all the reading I have done, I need to go up on the mains. Do I go crazy and jump to 150's or creep up on them and go 140's?

Other things I need to do are to lower the crossbar so the throttle cable isn't at such a crazy angle but that's unrelated to the carbs.

Also, does anyone run Outerwears or similar on the street? There is a lot of debris in the air cleaner bases from just running around town. I've noticed lowered car engines get much dirtier than stock height so anything I can do to help will.......help.
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[smitty24]

[Casting Timmy]

If those mains feel good to you and look good with an air fuel gage, you can raise your floats a little to get the mains in sooner or go down on the airs. I think you can also put a wire thru the top bleed hole of the emulsion tube to bring htem in sooner.

I'll have to look at my notes to be sure

[Casting Timmy]

Sorry you want to go up on the airs to get the mains in sooner.

[NAES]

Great info everyone. Thank you so much. Ill keep playing with them and see what i can male of them. As jets become available to me ill switch things around.
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Barndoor Mafia
Box On Wheels
SBS #00

[Casting Timmy]

If you do the wire trick in the emulsion tube...it suppose to make you go down on the air jets so you could probably just try this out with the air jets you have now.

Once you get your idles right, then you work on your air jets until you have a smooth transition. Then you can bring down your main jet until the air fuel gauge is reading right 12.8-13.2.

Since you have a mechanical only dizzy your idles circuit will be reading 12.8-13.2 even at a cruise.