Headlight/Dashlight Dimmer Switch

[IoWesty]

I had to remove my instrument cluster to get at the brake master cylinder. This included disconnecting all of the wires for the head/dash light switches, four way flasher, etc.

When I reconnected the headlight switch, the lights illuminating the dashboard/instrument cluster (speedometer, tachometer, fuel level, temp) and the gear shifter (P,R,N,D,1,2) did not light up. The switch still works for the headlights though.

Is there a fuse that went bad, or did I somehow not reconnect the switch properly?

Any fixes aside form buying a new $40 replacement switch?

Thanks.

[GMByers]

You did try turning the dimmer switch up and down (left to right) to ensure you have dash lights also, right?
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And then there were two...downsized to 83 Doka &
74 Thing.

[Ahwahnee]

Good tip on the dimmer -- then at least get the meter out and see if it is a bad switch, loose wire, etc.

Too late now but FYI -- I do not disconnect the switch when I do this job, just pop it out of the opening and leave it lie there (lower left):

[Alaska-Mike]

My 83.5 GL did not have any instrument lights working when I bought it.

The rheostat on the headlight switch was fried. And I found 3 similarly fried switches in a box.

There is no separate fuse for the instrument lights on my van. The circuit is fed via the switch from the headlight fuse.

Traced out the instrument circuit replacing all the melted fused wiring. At the very end of the loop where the lamp for the heater controls sits, I found the lamp was pulled out and the bare wire was contacting the steel wire / cables of the heater control levers. And a Swiss Army knife.

I installed a 5 amp inline fuse back near the rheostat to prevent melting the wires in that circuit.
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1983 Vanagon 1.9L GL - destined to become a dry camper

But I'd rather have a split bus.

[MarkWard]

What is the blue scotchlock connector for in the picture you uploaded?
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[Ahwahnee]

[MarkWard]

My mistake, thought it was the original poster's picture. Anyhow, unplug the switch and jump from power to the blue grey wire. Everything should light. If it does, you need to determine why you are not getting power out of the switch on that leg. Use caution jumping that circuit. The early models were not fused and you could let some smoke out if there is a short. One option is to make a jumper lead with an inline fuse for jumping when you are not exactly sure what you are doing. The fuse should pop before the smoke comes out.

You could also test the switch plugged in with a simple 12 volt testlight or DVOM meter.
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