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Sorry guys, but another question about raising the rear end
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Westy Steve
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:59 am    Post subject: Sorry guys, but another question about raising the rear end Reply with quote

Hey guys,

I did my due dilligence. I searched, but I'm just not finding the info I'm looking for.

When I bought my car ('62 bug), I was told the rear was lowered 3 notches.

I want to raise it up 1 notch.

In simple terms for dummys like me, how much work is it to for me to attempt to raise it up. I own the mother of all floor jacks. Can I just jack the car up, mark the inner and outer parts of the torsion assembly, and then disconnect it and reconnect it? Do I need to do more than remove the tire? What is the minimum I need to disconnect?

I guess I'm looking for an overview to determine how big of a job this is...instead of the nitty gritty. How can I de-tension the spring so I don't kill myself in the process?

Is there a thread out there listing the steps in a step by step manner for RAISING the car?

Thanks,

Steve
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the sticky for lowering... it's the exact same process, except for the direction you move the plate on the torsion bar splines.
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Joey
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

- remove parking brake cables from hand brake
- jack up car and remove wheels
- remove clip that holds the brake line to the axle tube
- remove bottom shock bolt
- using a chisel to mark the relationship of the spring plate and axle housing
- remove the three 19mm nuts bolts that holds the spring plate to the axle housing
- remove the four bolts and remove the torsion bar cover
- use a jack to raise the spring plate off the bottom on the torsion bar housing and pry it out a bit so when you lower the jack the spring plate slides over and down off of the torsion bar housing

Now would be a good time to replace the spring plate bushings or at least re-lube them with lots of talc powder. I used baby powder. Just make sure it the talc kind and not the corn starch kind...

- set your spring plates to the desired angle - car must be perfectly level from front to back
- replace the torsion bar cover and snug it up to the spring plate
- use the jack to jack up the spring plate above the stop on the torsion bar housing
- fully tighten the four bolts on the torsion bar cover
- re-assemble everything else in the reverse order you took it apart making sure the chisel marks on the spring plate and axle housing line up

Once you are done and the car is on the ground roll it back and forth so the rear wheels relax to show the new height.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One notch is 5.5 to 6 cm of change in height, depending on whether you are talking about the inner or outer splines.
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VOLKSWAGNUT
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forget the notches.. and measure the spring plate angles.. BEFORE.

Your perceived 3 notches and the previous owners actual 3 notches are most likely different..
Inner and outer splines are a diffeent degree of movement.
It may have been 2 up and one down.. or 2 down and 1 up..

Who knows how many inner or outer it was moved.. (nobody knows)

Measure where its currently at.. take the stock spec and decide where you want it in between..
Then set each side accordingly..


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Northof49
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smart advice above. If you don't take measurements, you can't gauge your progress. Or get them even.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really, whatever angle you choose, I'd still want to double check that both sides have the same angle, just to be sure. You can run into some really funky handling when the two sides don't match.
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Westy Steve
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
- remove parking brake cables from hand brake
- jack up car and remove wheels
- remove clip that holds the brake line to the axle tube
- remove bottom shock bolt
- using a chisel to mark the relationship of the spring plate and axle housing
- remove the three 19mm nuts bolts that holds the spring plate to the axle housing
- remove the four bolts and remove the torsion bar cover
- use a jack to raise the spring plate off the bottom on the torsion bar housing and pry it out a bit so when you lower the jack the spring plate slides over and down off of the torsion bar housing

Now would be a good time to replace the spring plate bushings or at least re-lube them with lots of talc powder. I used baby powder. Just make sure it the talc kind and not the corn starch kind...

- set your spring plates to the desired angle - car must be perfectly level from front to back
- replace the torsion bar cover and snug it up to the spring plate
- use the jack to jack up the spring plate above the stop on the torsion bar housing
- fully tighten the four bolts on the torsion bar cover
- re-assemble everything else in the reverse order you took it apart making sure the chisel marks on the spring plate and axle housing line up

Once you are done and the car is on the ground roll it back and forth so the rear wheels relax to show the new height.


That's a brilliant overview. Reading it makes me think this is something I can tackle. Now I can study up on each step in detail before proceeding. One question...some people use chains in the process to hold the torsion bar...is that necessary if I just detention the whole thing by jacking the car way up in the air?

Steve
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bdub475
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a ledge the spring plate sits on. Once the wheel is off the ground the plate is on the ledge. Jacking the car up higher will not help. I set the car on jack stands and use a jack to lift the plate up just enough so it is not touching the ledge/stop then I wiggle or pry it out past the stop and slowly lower the jack.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chain eh'... on a full body car. not really neccessary...

VOLKSWAGNUT wrote:

Have the frame as level as possible side to side is important. Front to back really makes no difference, as long as you compensate for the angle at which the chassis is resting, on a solid floor.
Use your rocker panel (door ledge) as your 0 point of starting reference, (per side) or another point you know is a reference of the chassis fore/aft.
You are simply measuing the difference in the angle of the spring plate relaxed vs the angle of the chassis. The difference is the plate angle..

As for unloading and loading the spring. If you are very careful, unloading goes very smoothly. With virtually no weight on the chassis, it complicates things both loading and unloading.
Unloading.....Just use caution, dont place any bones beneath the plate. go slow, and use common sense.

BTW The ole chain and jack method works nicely to load and unload light cars .....
To Unload, you basically wrap a chain around the jack base and chassis. When you start raising the plate to move it off the stop, the chain maxes out between the jack base and the light frame, and the jack moves the plate.... you simply pry the plate free of the stop, and lower the jack...

The same method for loading... and simply raise the plate up and clamp it into place with a C clamp until you have the bushing cover on, and or even better, the transaxle in place.
Its not a bad idea to keep them clamped until you have axles in place....

You'll find plenty of advice...
Its really no big deal.. Just set your angles correctly, or accordingly, and evenly... Thats important..

Oh hell.. here.... juts go here.... Its about one of the best basic explainations of R&R.. :
http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_suspend.htm

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Of course if you are a good welder... Pick up a VW jack and make the tool...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=523285

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aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just set the car on jack stands and use a larger, stable, floor jack to raise and lower the spring plate as I pry it off the ledge. Once its off the ledge, you can lower it fully using the jack, remove the jack, take initial measurements, then start working on indexing it.
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