Author |
Message |
Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
|
Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2004 8:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
NorCalNick wrote: |
Eaallred wrote: |
Do you run a head temp gauge? |
nope, "gauges are for girls" lol |
If you don't run gauges, how do you know you aren't running hot?
One could say that stating that you don't run hot, but don't run gauges to know what temps you are running, is ignorant. So to speak.
One thing I learned years ago; I had a mild motor in my bus, and had a big ol oil cooler in place. On a drive up to Yellowstone park my oil temps stayed between 180 and 190 degrees. I kept pushing my bus, maintaining 65mph wether I was on flat ground or going up a hill. By the time we got home, we were pulling over every 14 miles to add a quart of oil, then pushstarting the bus to get it going again. My oil never got over 190 degree's, but I cooked the motor especially good. Since the case stays close to the oil temp, it can be tough to determine if the heads are running hot without a gauge to let you know. I've been keeping tabs on head temps ever since. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stanagon Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2003 Posts: 4186 Location: Boston, MA
|
Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2004 11:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The reduction boxes also give you more ground clearance and this was part of the reason VW used them, from what I've read in a few books.
I'm planning to keep mine and just cruise on the highway at 60-65 with my 1600cc single port motor. "Stock height IS right", especially if you do any off-roading (mild or wild), want to drive over bumps, or like haulin' lots of stuff with a stock motor. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andrew Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2000 Posts: 5865 Location: Who in the what now?
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
3 type2's wrote: |
A trick I have seen done to get back cooling fan speed lost due to straight axle conversions, is using a Porsche 356 generator pulley. I haven't tried it myself, but it makes sense to me. Jeff |
This actually does work to some extent. I used one for a little bit; but when it broke, I just never bought a new one.
_________________ -Andrew |
|
Back to top |
|
|
krusher Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2002 Posts: 7652 Location: europe
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
RobzKombi Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2003 Posts: 2137
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
Quote: |
3 type2's wrote:
A trick I have seen done to get back cooling fan speed lost due to straight axle conversions, is using a Porsche 356 generator pulley. I haven't tried it myself, but it makes sense to me. Jeff
|
Andrew
Quote: |
This actually does work to some extent. I used one for a little bit; but when it broke, I just never bought a new one.
|
Andrew, Ive also thought about this mod and it makes sense to me. "smaller pulley=more revolutions= better cooling right???" But how or why do you think the pulley fell apart? too much stress maybe? just wondering if putting a smaller pulley will cause more stress elsewhere. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
The common reason a alt/gen pulley breaks is from the belt being adjusted too tight. Normally, when the pulley is tightened down, the two halves of the pulley are flush against eachother. If you adjust it too tight, then as the pulley rotates, it widens when it comes around where the belt is, then narrows when the belt isn't in the groove. Kinda like bending a pop can in half over and over. In this case, the pulley is only slightly bending, but it is doing it about 1500 times a minute just at idle. (850 idle X 1.8:1 pulley ratio - higher ratio with a 356 pulley). _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RobzKombi Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2003 Posts: 2137
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 11:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
Eric, whats is the proper way to tighten the belt? how many shims need to be inbetween the halves? I noticed in my 67 that it has a couple of shims on the outside of the pulley aswell as in between.
apologize go out Zeus for getting off the subject here. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ideally you want a belt length that will leave you with betwen 8 and 11 shims between the pulley halves.
I start out with too many shims. When you tighten it down, you can feel when the pulley halves are pressed together (it's "squishier" if you have too few of shims since you are then tightening against the belt rather than the pulley halves). I remove a shim at a time until I get the 1/2" deflection that it should have. Then I start it up and see if the belt squeaks when I rev the motor. If you get a squeaking noise when you romp on it, the belt it too loose, and you need to remove another shim. A shim at a time makes it so you don't accidentally get it to tight.
I tell you what though. If someone made a serpentine belt system with a spring loaded tensioner, I'd run it in a heartbeat. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to put a spring on the CB system. Maybe a brake pedal return spring? nah, probably not strong enough. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RobzKombi Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2003 Posts: 2137
|
Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 1:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Eric, thanks for the 411. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|