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What To Do Before You Weld In Belly Pans?
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 12:52 pm    Post subject: What To Do Before You Weld In Belly Pans? Reply with quote

I will be installing belly pans on my bus down the road. I want to make sure I have all of the essential jobs completed before they are welded onto the frame.

I'm starting this thread with the hope that people will comment from their own experiences and pass the knowledge onto me and others.

Thanks for the advice.

Spitty
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glideking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the top of my head, you should move the brake line to outside after the pans and add a conduit for the wire harness before the pans. Tip the bus over like my '65 to do the welding!
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Passenger side frame.
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iamdonquixote
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like you replaced the tube ( conduit ) for the wiring loom. What size tubing did you use?
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaLiBus wrote:
Passenger side frame.
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'Xactly! ^^^^ Neutral

In haste I failed to do ^^that^^! Though so far I haven't had the need for it, it's only wise to have it. Matter'O'factly I would install one on each side just in case. Surely won't hurt any to add them. Another "issue" to consider is the mounting/bolting of camper interiors. I also failed to provide access to the bolts securing mine. d'oh!
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Belt anchors for a middle seat if not factory installed.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the cable tubes for crusty stuff and replace any if you can't get a cable to pass through and slide easily. I ended up running the choke cable loose through the belly cavity afterwards since I couldn't get the cable through the rusted tube.

Also, my accelerator cable doesn't slide easily in its tube, so I have to tap the pedal to get the cable to pull back into idle.

And get everything all de-scaled and POR-15'd before putting in the pans.
Don't forget to treat the inside of the new pans as well.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all! Cool
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keo808
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just brainstorming...Would there be any issues with temporary bolting the pans in rather than welding? This would be temporary so I could keep the project a driver as I complete the work and just in case I forget something Embarassed .Then welded once satisfied that all the other items are completed.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

keo808 wrote:
Just brainstorming...Would there be any issues with temporary bolting the pans in rather than welding? This would be temporary so I could keep the project a driver as I complete the work and just in case I forget something Embarassed .Then welded once satisfied that all the other items are completed.


I believe someone here tried that approach already, bolting them instead of welding. My bus is stiff as all get out now and I'm sure if the pans were just bolted, they'd had come loose or gotten warped by now. Think

But to each his own. Confused
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pyrOman wrote:
keo808 wrote:
Just brainstorming...Would there be any issues with temporary bolting the pans in rather than welding? This would be temporary so I could keep the project a driver as I complete the work and just in case I forget something Embarassed .Then welded once satisfied that all the other items are completed.


I believe someone here tried that approach already, bolting them instead of welding. My bus is stiff as all get out now and I'm sure if the pans were just bolted, they'd had come loose or gotten warped by now. Think

But to each his own. Confused


IMO
I guess It depends on specific models
DD sun roof -yes
DD rusty bus -yes
DD panel or kombi- you might get get away with.

But here's why I would always weld in belly pans. - safety!
Imagine turning a corner where the body will take twist. Out go's your cargo doors.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaLiBus wrote:
Imagine turning a corner where the body will take twist.


Next time I set the Dormy on "4" jackstands, I'll take a pix. It'll show it sitting on just 3! Apparently the slab at the time I welded them in was out of level by a half inch, so I can set it on 2 stands out back and a single one on the driver's side of the front beam! Razz

That chassis is really stiff, I tell ya! Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll also be putting belly pans eventually.... But the current thinking is to bond them on rather than weld. Any downside to bonding to worry about?

Thx NB
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cluster wrote:
I'll also be putting belly pans eventually.... But the current thinking is to bond them on rather than weld. Any downside to bonding to worry about?

Thx NB


The current high tech automotive bonding adhesives should be strong enough for the task, but I wouldn't do it that way. That plastic mess would be hell to remove for some future restoration many years in the future. This isn't some disposable modern car, it will hopefully be around for a long, long time.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all! Cool
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also considered bonding when replacing the bed on the Plump Truck. Working in the aerospace field, I inquired about it. Though more likely very "effective", the process is quite critical in the mixing, adhering, applied pressure and curing, specially if you want to use high end quality stuff instead of some crazy glue cheap crap. Confused

Welding is actually much cheaper, easyer and just as effective if not more so. Well, "easyer" maybe just process wise 'cause it does take quite a while to do. Matter'O'factly I did just over 1,000 welds on that bed which also means 1,000 drilled/punched holes! Shocked

BTW, for the belly pans, I jacked up the bus as high as I could and of course, use the proper gear to do "overhead" welding which includes the leather vest. Cool
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spitty1974 wrote:
I want to make sure I have all of the essential jobs completed before they are welded onto the frame.

If you ever want an ambulance step there are spacers that need put in.

Cluster wrote:
Any downside to bonding to worry about?

My opinion is leave bonding to the cars it was later applied to so it can crap out on them. Bonded panels are also engineered so they join in a different way than welded stuff. My parents' Ford Windstar has a lot of bonded stuff and some bonded things have just fallen off.
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys! It is great to learn all the things to do before final install of the pans.

Does anyone have pictures of the conduit where it comes through the back and front area of the frame? Sorry, I don't know the technical term for that section of frame. Are there any brackets in the center to support the conduit or just at the two ends? Did you put a rubber grommet at each end, or is the tube just open so the harness can pass through it?

I met a guy locally here in the Bay Area who is bolting his bellypans in, but as others have mentioned it seemed like a bad idea to me. I will be welding mine onto the frame.

When I picked up my bus from Grumpy well over a year ago he mentioned that you could use the bonding glue to install his bellypans. He did use a small bit of bonding glue on the back roof bow behind the sunroof opening on my bus. I would have rather had it been welded in like the rest of the work he did, but I do think it is strong and will not be a problem. I have a set of his pans to install on my bus.

Spitty
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spitty1974 wrote:
He did use a small bit of bonding glue on the back roof bow behind the sunroof opening on my bus. I would have rather had it been welded in like the rest of the work he did, but I do think it is strong and will not be a problem.


I agree with using it in ^^that^^ application. Much like "seam sealer", there are certain applications where bonding is not just okay but preferable to use. However, belly pans are NOT it, IMO. Think

Currently, a lot of airplane parts and "skins" are being bonded together, but as I said, the process is quite critical for it to be strong enough. I've been involved a little with the R&D on bonding before it got "approved" for production manufacturing and can assure you it isn't as easy as applying some glue and slapping the parts together. Neutral

Spitty1974 wrote:
Does anyone have pictures of the conduit where it comes through the back and front area of the frame?


Unless your bus came with belly pans, there will be no easy "provision" for the conduit. I would just figure out a best place to run it and go with that. I'd also leave the current wire loom and rear brake line right where they are. However, having a tube in there will make it way easyer if ever you'll need to replace them. Cool
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pyrOman wrote:
and can assure you it isn't as easy as applying some glue and slapping the parts together. Neutral


+ doesn't it have to go into an oven?
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
pyrOman wrote:
and can assure you it isn't as easy as applying some glue and slapping the parts together. Neutral


+ doesn't it have to go into an oven?


Well, that too but though some bonding doesn't need to be "baked", it is put into ovens (and fridges) for testing long term in extreme environments. Cool
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