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Kaput Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:01 pm Post subject: Oil Bath Mess |
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I have a 1600 sp engine with an oil bath There is a pipe that goes by the oil filler that just drips on the tin. Where is this supposed to lead? The PO said it could be plugged up (don't really trust he knew what he was talking about) but it seems like it may supposed to be going through the tin to the ground?? Also there seems to be a hose or 2 missing on the main part of the oil bath. Can anyone shed some light?
I would like to be able to park the bus in my driveway without making a mess. |
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WestyPop Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2005 Posts: 1732 Location: SoCal
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Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 11:42 pm Post subject: |
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Unless someone has really put way too much oil into the air cleaner, IMO the 'oil mess' is more likely due to engine blowby/crankcase fumes than to any problem with the OG oilbath air cleaner.
And yes, the warm air hose is missing from the the air cleaner assembly's lower intake. _________________ Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.
______________________________________
J.R.
68 Westy
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 12:09 am Post subject: |
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The pipe is your draft tube. It is an alternate route for blowby to get out of your engine. Yes they dump oil under the car, fifty years ago all cars had draft tubes and the roads were an oily mess. People often do make changes to their crankcase ventilation at least partially to get rid of the oil drips. Some systems work well, while others can make your engine even nastier.
The draft tube would have originally had a rubber pinch valve on its lower end. |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:04 am Post subject: |
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Thank you Busdaddy for the pics _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
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67jason Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2005 Posts: 4741 Location: behind my back feet - Pittsburg CA
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:36 am Post subject: |
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It looks as if that draft tube has been shortened, unless you can find a replacement you'll want to add a short piece of tube (clamped on with a rubber hose sleeve perhaps?) so it extends down through the tin. When you get the rubber end boot from WW or whoever check that the end is actually slit open, some are not and don't allow condensation to drain like they should.
BTW the smog hoses on the aircleaner in my pics there are reversed, the oil breather goes on the snout and the canister purge line (if you have one) goes on the filter body. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні! |
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Kaput Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Everyone for the info!
Should that air intake hose just go through the tin to take air in or does it need to connect to anything?
Looks like i just need to drill a couple holes in the tin, get some hoses and the boot And I should be fine. Please correct me if I am wrong. |
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richparker Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 6983 Location: Durango, CO
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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Kaput wrote: |
Thanks Everyone for the info!
Should that air intake hose just go through the tin to take air in or does it need to connect to anything |
The hose that comes off the bottom of the air cleaner and goes through the tin should hook to this. This picks up warm air off the heater box.
_________________ __________
’71 Westy build
Adventure thread
’65 Deluxe Build
’63 Deluxe Build |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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You might just look for a rear tin with all the holes you need already cut into it. They are pretty plentiful as every engine came with one. You do need to find the right one for your year though as there were several variants over the years. |
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bigbore Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2003 Posts: 3297 Location: Wasilla Alaska
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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It looks like your road draft tube is cut off thats bad you need to fix that. Also having your fuel filter sitting on the carb heat pipe is a sure way to burn the bus to the ground. _________________ where its cold and snowy |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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It also looks to be a DP engine. |
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Kaput Samba Member
Joined: December 12, 2002 Posts: 859 Location: Lakewood, CO
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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Excellent advice, keep it coming! Good eye Wildthings, it is a dual port.
I will definitely move that filter and attach something to extend the road draft tube. Is that a hazard? I suppose the oil on the tin is a fire hazard too.
Is the oil bath intake a hazard as well? |
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richparker Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011 Posts: 6983 Location: Durango, CO
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mikedjames Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2012 Posts: 2743 Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
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You could of course just change the oil filler assembly on the end of the alternator / dynamo stand for a more modern alternator oil fillerne that only has the hose going to the oil bath and nothing dropping oil below.
These are common on upright engines here in Europe. My 1973 bay has no pipe hanging down.
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1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
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