2276 Turnkey Build Thread - SCAT Kit

[bugguy1967]

I meant to add M6x25 screws. I just left out the word "screws". I hate when they pull out too.

Oh btw, I think we're going to bring the engine to Roger Crawford to break in and dyno the engine. Izzy Performance closed down by my house. He accidentally killed two spectators in a street race recently when he lost control of his Mustang.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

I thought I'd update this topic. A lot of aesthetic changes have happened. I've been really busy and haven't had a chance to get everything on here. The tins were originally painted black, but my client decided to match the color with his car. It was a good choice. The tins also got a bunch of body work with a high quality metal filler that he found. Everything looks much nicer now. Notice the factory shroud, and how it's all smoothed out. Even the groove in the center is gone! We swapped the MSD setup for a Pertronix Flame Thrower 3 kit. There is a bunch of small details that I can't even remember. Being in Aerospace has really helped me problem solve interference issues in a clean, safe, and effective way. The carb filter were slightly bumping the shroud. I used some rubber guards to prevent chatter between the two. The plug wires have rubber guards in areas where rubbing will be a concern too. The last thing we want is a fire because of exposed wire. The tins have all stainless aerospace quality hardware, except for the Bugpack buttonhead screws on the backing plate. There is a restored thermostat setup installed with re-zinc'd linkage pieces and return spring. The pulleys are shimmed properly to keep the belt from turning over.

Even with all German tins, a lot of finessing was in order to get everything fitting properly. The sidewinder's J-tubes were hitting the sleds and hitting the thermostat bracket slightly. I had to clear out a lot of material on the sleds.

My client decided on JayCee to dyno. JayCee makes a bunch of high quality products. He also has had almost all of his products knocked off by various vendors. My client took a liking to JayCee's oil filter bracket over the Berg one. I had to make some new steel lines for that particular setup. I also had to enlarge the exhaust flange holes on the bracket. They were waay too tight. The HP1 that came with the kit was also too long to clear the header. I had some PH16s for T4s in my stash that cleared perfectly.

The weekend before last, we brought it over to Jack's shop to be dynoed. Jack's dyno has one of the lowest readings out of all the local VW shops in So-Cal. I'd prefer something more realistic than a blown-up number. I'm hoping to see numbers that reflect a good combination of parts that work together till 6000-6500 RPM. I know it's all head-dependent, but hopefully the heads flow well enough to do as advertised.

When it leaves the shop, I need to finish attaching tins, the clutch, fab some hard lines, and a few other small things. It will then be covered up till his car gets re-painted.

Any predictions on dyno numbers? It's a flywheel dyno jic you haven't been paying attention.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

This week, I'll be working on the crankcase evac oil separator, or catch canister. The purpose of this box is to catch the oil mist before it gets sucked up by the exhaust. It has three inlets and two vents in standard form. This box also has two rows of internal baffles. The vents need to be sealed in order for the suction to work. I'm going to use two block-off plates that screw on, just in case he ever wants to switch to a traditional breather set-up. The gauze element will be left inside to help catch the vapor. On the top, I've mocked up where a weld-in -10 AN adapter will go. Tomorrow, I'll mill out the box on the Bridgeport and if I have time, get it welded. The lower pic is how it will sit. We'll be using Aeroquip hose instead of standard Goodyear-type hose.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Tossed the breather box on the Bridgeport during my lunch, cut it, and shot it across the street for welding. Here's where I'm at: I still need to seal off the two side vents.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[AlteWagen]

Zombie thread alert.

Just wondering what it did on the dyno with the Brothers heads. The car is for sale now and this thread is linked to the ad


https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/d/vw-volkswagen-1963/6243314034.html

thanks
_________________
Grapes of Wrath $200 Engine Rebuild
Official Dual Carb Thread
Cylinder Head Quick Reference Sheet

[bugguy1967]

150HP at 6000. I believe the powerband is 6500, but it didn't get taken that high, unfortunately.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Heyyyyyy everybody. I'm vegging here on the couch, and remembered that I promised Chris, the owner that I'd update this thread with the latest revisions. He brought me the engine awhile back because of a sand seal leakage issue that went out of control. Chris is big on aesthetically pleasing engines, which brought me out of my comfort zone (in a good way). It helped me to learn more about how a lot of components fit together. He brought me a seemingly new DTM shroud that he purchased from Dean Kirsten (heard the name?).

I'ma abridge this story a bit because the trials and tribulations were endless. The DTM fitment was a nightmare. I first had to clearance for the CB offset intakes, because the standard cutouts are too small for anything. So I marked, cut small, mocked, cut some more, mocked, cut more, etc etc. I finally got the right fit with about 1/8" extra to add a rubber seal that went between the manifolds and shroud. 3 hours right there. Then the shroud was hitting the case. More trimming/grinding needed. Couple more hours. I go to fit the shroud. There's like a 1/2" gap between the cylinder covers and the mounting points on the head. I check all over. Can't find anything. Here's some pics:

Really confused, I tried to tighten it down as-is. I could hear creaking from the fiberglass as I expected. The shroud cannot be stressed, or it will crack over time. Another issue was that the fan would rub something internally when things started getting snugged down. Off with the shroud...

I came to the conclusion that the alternator stand was holding the shroud too high, even though it was absolutely fine on the previous setup with German shroud. I removed about 1/4" off both the base and top of the stand to get it down.

Finally got it properly seated! Moving on. Oil cooler tins: no seals. Added my own foam strip, mocked the T4 cooler, tin holes no longer lined up. Some quick grinding got them right. Some alignment, drilling, and fabbing was needed for the pulley tin. I added M6 rivnuts to attach the covers to the pulley tin. I did pretty much the neatest job possible. Also, even though I shortened the stand, the belt still fit...🤔🤔🤔

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Moving on to the internals: the aluminum Norris pushrods showed signs of deflection with the normal dual springs. I've had luck with a few low spring pressure engines already, so I proposed to update the 2276 with some of my new ideas. His old setup consisted of Norris straight-wall pushrods, 1.4 Clyde Berg rockers, standard shelf dual springs of unknown origin, 71 gram SCAT lifters, and chromoly retainers. The new setup now has CB 650 outer springs only and Norris titanium retainers. The rest of the valvetrain was fairly light already.

The #1 bank had oil in the chamber. The rings had failed the break-in period. We ended up going with tried and true Grants in the end. The barrels got a rehone as well. The good thing about dynoing is that the operator can seat em right on the stand.

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Linkage and induction: probably where the majority of the power gains were made. There was a massive restriction in the ports that came from Brother's. They were ported only at the bases, and halfway up were almost untouched. It took a few hours, but I managed to do another set of Space Savers with a consistent taper. A bit of welding was needed also.

The linkage: Sync-Link. The flipped Sync-Link bars interfered a bit, and some slight finessing was needed - a spacer here and there, etc. It's probably the best linkage system out there. You can see the washers under the bars and behind the wheels:

Also stepped up to CB 38mm vents over the 36mm ones and 170 mains over the 165s.

Uhhh that was pretty much it.... at the dyno it made around 190 at 6K rpm and closer to 220 with the belt off. Let me upload a video:

_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[bugguy1967]

Got it. Sorry, it was on my old Samsung J7, so the quality is kinda weak. I didn't realize that my JPM bales needed tweaking to make them tight, so it smoked at upper revs. Anyways, it'll have stock ones on it when the owner gets back to his project. There were many pulls made, but I have two pics of printouts. One before we arrived, and one after the belt was removed. Here's the 186hp one before we showed up: after that pull and some changes, somewhere near 190 was produced. To me, the peak number isn't that important, hence why I can't remember the exact numbers.


Link

We discussed the big jump in power after the belt was removed. It's probably because of the shroud?? Who knows??

There will still probably be some more fine tuning and small changes, but I'm hoping this is the final combo. Phew!🥳
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"

[jason]

I want a set of those valve covers, nice.

[bugguy1967]

These were actually in the sale bin at Dyno Day - 1000 SEK. They're redder than they're supposed to be, which I kinda like because they have a story.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"