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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just to add to the confusion, how about modern silicone pad style heaters?, it'd be a biotch to glue to the finned bottom of the case but may work on the sides of the sump or even on top of the case if you could find one the right size: http://www.mcfarlane-aviation.com/Products/?CategoryID=128
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24100-Watt-Universal-Heater/dp/B000I8VL3O
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.


This is correct BD.

I did not look in the classifieds, but the ebay one is NOS and cheaper then the ones you posted. Thanks for the tip on the HD timer.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.


You got it right about the clips and key words are "hold the heater up against your engine ... " With the other heater, the coils float around inside the cover and the whole long arm seems to be part of the heating element and is exposed to ambient temperatures and wind. You could be correct about the arms not turning blue, but that could also be because they were exposed and didn't get hot while warming up the air. I'll at least stick with, being held against the engine, as a better design.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems there are steel clips that bolt under 3 of the sump plate nuts and have ears that stick out the sides and hold the heater up against your engine (which is not included Razz ), looks like the clips have a top hat profile.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This ad kind of shows what one looks like inside.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1588733
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm having a difficult time picturing how these are installed. Does anyone have a picture, or can describe it to me?

edit:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to recall buying a block heater timer at Home Depot a few years ago, it had a pretty substantial load rating IIRC.

You guys have looked in the classifieds....right? http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...ton=Search

Regarding Tom's post about the inefficiency of the whole element heating up I don't think it does, this one looks used and it appears only the part on the sump plate turned blue:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
One thing I learned from boy scouts was 'be prepared.' I'm not prepping for a nuclear holocaust; but maybe trips to the snow and I don't wanna get stuck.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583885&highlight=chaining

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Busdriver79
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I never drive my bus in the winter, (no heat at all), I start it up at least every three weeks to get it to operating temperature...I'm using 5W-20 dinosaur motor oil, and I have no trouble getting it to fire up during extremely cold weather...I wait for a sunny day with little or no wind, and that does make a difference...The engine is a twin carb 2.0L...The only problem is noisy lifters for a minute or so...I'm not using any sort of engine pre heat...It stays outside under a carport and has a full cover over it.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I learned from boy scouts was 'be prepared.' I'm not prepping for a nuclear holocaust; but maybe trips to the snow and I don't wanna get stuck.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dipstick heater
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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
I understand the theory, but in all practicality wouldn't you really only need this if you don't have the correct oil weight for the season?


Brian wrote:
Rich, good thing I didn't buy it. I was very close to doing it too Wink

I am extremely curious to see how it mounts. I want to find one to have in dire cases. so I'm watching this Popcorn


Out of curiosity, what made you change your mind?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Brian wrote:
just get one of them timers you use for Xmas lights.



Yes...those will work. Just be sure it has wattage capacity to operate with the wattage of the heater you buy PLUS the length of extension cord.

Not that I think anyone would need a heater over about 200-300 watts.....but for instance if you have ever tried to find a 110, volt timer to work for a coffee maker in an office....which can pull 1200 to 1800 watts.....its quite an expensive timer. Ray


Ray, Is there a spicific timer you would suggest? I don't know anything about them. I'll be useing a 25' extension cord. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
sonofamitch wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
I have used magnetic block heaters over the years on various engines with good success. They will even work on a Type 1 engine with a steel sump plate. They run in the 200-300 Watt range.


Have you had any experience using them on Type 4 engines? I thinking about getting a magnetic 200w but I'm not sure if it will be capable of heating up my engine.


I have, they will buy your another 15°F or so of easy starting. You aren't going to have a nice hot engine with heat poring out the defroster vents or anything like that though. They are pretty vulnerable when attached to the sump plate, so daily removal would be in order.


I have a slightly vintage one that is still available that works for type 1 or type 4.
It bolts to two of the case bolts on the centerline and has its hot spot right around the strainer lid area. I have not tried it yet. Post a pic later. Ray
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
It would be nice to have maybe a 5 Watt heater for engine mothballing. You don't really need to keep the engine warm, but just get it above the dew point of the surrounding air.



Ooooh.....crap! I never thought of that. Storing transmissions has the same issues.

Thanks for the idea. Ray
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sonofamitch wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
I have used magnetic block heaters over the years on various engines with good success. They will even work on a Type 1 engine with a steel sump plate. They run in the 200-300 Watt range.


Have you had any experience using them on Type 4 engines? I thinking about getting a magnetic 200w but I'm not sure if it will be capable of heating up my engine.


I have, they will buy your another 15°F or so of easy starting. You aren't going to have a nice hot engine with heat poring out the defroster vents or anything like that though. They are pretty vulnerable when attached to the sump plate, so daily removal would be in order.
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sonofamitch
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I have used magnetic block heaters over the years on various engines with good success. They will even work on a Type 1 engine with a steel sump plate. They run in the 200-300 Watt range.


Have you had any experience using them on Type 4 engines? I thinking about getting a magnetic 200w but I'm not sure if it will be capable of heating up my engine.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
I have used magnetic block heaters over the years on various engines with good success. They will even work on a Type 1 engine with a steel sump plate. They run in the 200-300 Watt range.


Sounds better than installing something of unknown quality inside your sump. You can also remove it seasonally.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used magnetic block heaters over the years on various engines with good success. They will even work on a Type 1 engine with a steel sump plate. They run in the 200-300 Watt range.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich, good thing I didn't buy it. I was very close to doing it too Wink

I am extremely curious to see how it mounts. I want to find one to have in dire cases. so I'm watching this Popcorn
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