1980 air cooled vanagon 2.0 Fuel injected dies randomly

[cameronhoule]

1980 air cooled 2.0 fuel injected with heads rebuilt two months back. So my problem started about a month back when we had a heavy snow fall and temperatures around 5 degrees F. My van wouldn't start. I check the battery its from 2006 so I figure it's about time for a new one. I replace the battery and BOOM runs like a champ. 3 weeks go by and I'm driving to class this morning, first morning under 20 degrees since I bought my new battery. I go and start the van and let it warm up for about 5 min or so.. Start driving to class and chug chug chug. Dies. Throw some gas in it just in case. Try and start it... nothing. Not even turning over. I get my girlfriend to come jump it and it starts then dies when I remove the cables. Lots and lots of white smoke coming from exhaust.

[a1fa]

Check the TSII. It may not be grounded. When you say not turning over? You turn the key, and the engine does not turn over? Do you hear any noises?
_________________
Learn to ride. Ride to learn.

[Wildthings]

Sounds like your charging system may not be working. Have you put a meter on it to see what the charging voltage is? If the charge/alternator warning light burns out or if the wire comes loose somewhere you will have no charging going on and no warning light either.

[Wasted youth]

White smoke possibly from starting attempts during very cold weather, excessive gasoline and exhaust condensate. I don't live in an area that gets that cold, but I am thinking the chill may have made an already questionable electrical connection brittle somewhere, and you may now have an open circuit or poor ground.

You can bypass the TSII by disconnecting it from the harness, and connecting a jumper wire to the harness connector and body ground. It will get you home... grounding it gives the ECU the signal that the engine is properly warmed up.

I also agree with Wildthings... if the charging system was doing it's job, it would have been supplying electricity to the primary ignition circuit regardless of battery condition.

Did you try to re-jump start it after you and girlfriend were successful the first time?

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, use their 20% coupon and get this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9193.html

I have one and it is surprisingly accurate. It will help determine if your new battery is bad, maybe freeze damaged?

Next, start looking at as many electrical connections as you can. Don't forget to check the transmission ground strap, too.

[cameronhoule]

When I turn the key it doesn't turn over at all. Unless I'm jumping it it will start then die. & wildthings the warning light is the blue wire correct? It's not hooked up to the alternator at all? I haven't checked the voltage yet i'll have to go pick up a reader. And I'll check the TSII. Could that blue wire effect it?

Appreciate the help guys.

[Randy in Maine]

The blue wire at the voltage regualtor has to be hooked up for the alternator to charge.

Fix that first.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/ChargingSystem.html

Invest in a volt ohm meter (I have a cheap actron 7677). Maybe Santa will bring you one.

[cameronhoule]

Alright so I pull the battery and took it to a local car shop. They said the battery was at 38%. I had them charge it. Fixed the blue D+ wire and hooked it on the alternator went back to the van and it fired right up and I drove her home. Now to see if my battery drains again the next cold morning. Thanks guys!

[Wildthings]

You really need to get a meter from find out what your charging voltage it. You are going to need the meter for other things anyway if you expect to keep an old car running. They can be had from Radio Shack, Walmart, Cosco, etc for $25 or so.