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Lightened Flywheels
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:27 pm    Post subject: Lightened Flywheels Reply with quote

I have had my 2110 (82 x 90.5) engine since 1981.
It is all Claudes Buggies parts.
The flywheel was the lightened unit right out of the catalog.
Now I am rebuilding. The flywheel pin holes are loose, it has had a hard life.
Got a new flywheel, simple enough right?
Then I notice the new flywheel is different, heavy feeling.
So I weigh the old and new.
Old CB flywheel 9lbs.
New CB flywheel 13 lbs.
Called CB and they never heard of a 9lb flywheel and also tell me the 12.5 to 13lb is a lightened flywheel these days.

So how is this going to effect my engine? Or effect my cam choice?

Anyone been there and done that?

My vehicle is
850lbs
3.44 r&p
Now a 2286cc
Street driven
Fuel injected
Distributerless
Type 1 VW
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My opinion is u should run the 13lb flywheel. 9lbs is way too light. It wont affect cam choice but it wont be such a rascal on the street like before. Im sure youve gotten used to it through the years, but I would definitely switch.
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run a stock weight flywheel on my drag cars.

13lbs is plenty light enough for some spirited street action. The difference really isn't that much IMHO. When I switched while my drag car was still asperated, I noticed nothing, and that was a 10.5lb flywheel.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One reason they stopped making the flywheels that light (I had a 8 1/2lb SCAT) is that removes material from the opposite side of where the clutch disc is. This removes some of the heat sink. Can cause clutch slippage. Also flywheel can be bent when trying to remove it.
Does your flywheel have bluing on the outside surface of the clutch disc?
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I do have to admit it has been so long I can not remember having any other flywheel.
The dowel pin holes are loose and it will not be used again.
The heavy wheel is going on.
Think about this... i am light 850lbs.

No bluing or surface problems with it ever.
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mass at the outer diameter matters MUCH more than nearer the center.

A 13 pound flywheel can rev faster than a 9 LB one, if they take all the weight out of the very edge instead of behind the clutch!
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is apart right now.

Here it is with carbs.

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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the flywheel is otherwise in good condition, have the crank and flywheel pin holes reamed to the next size larger. 8mm to 11/32".
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raul arrese
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That trike can take the lightest flywheel you want , you don't need much flywheel to get tht going ... that's why it problably had the 9lb on it..
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not design it specifically at 9 lbs.
I just bought the lightened wheel out of the CB catalog.

The engine was originally in my 66 Sedan with this wheel.

The motorcycle was my 85 Gold Wing.

One day a long time ago I looked at them and said, I aught to put that big boxer where that little boxer is".
So this is what happened. It has been fun.

I have gotten a new crank and flywheel. Maybe I will cut some more weight off the wheel before it goes out to balance. I am still collecting parts. I want to get it back together for next summer.
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

X2. Have the old crank and flywheel upsized to 11/32 dowells and rebuild. It's the standard fix for loose pins. And when you rebuild, use a chromoly gladnut and torque to 400 ft/lbs.
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turboblue
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There were some aluminum/steel flywheels available years ago.
Maybe that's what CB sold you back then.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Re: Lightened Flywheels Reply with quote

Do you have a picture of the crank and flywheel? I agree they can be saved by reaming to 11/32 and using the 11/32 dowels. Not a huge deal for a good crank guy (DPR). Certainly less $ than buying a new crank and flywheel.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol. People. He already has the new flywheel in hand. If the crank specs out and crank dowels are not out of round or doesnt spec out, put the new flywheel on! I torque between 380 to 400. New chromolly gland nut should be bought. Or am I interpreting this wrongly?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think fats has the right idea. execpt I go a bit more than the 400 twerking Shocked thers that danged spellen again,kaint seem to get it wright. I seriously doubt you will find any negitive affects from the 13# flyingwheels over the one you had.dont worry be happy, be sure to reset the end play too!!!good luck and getter done.
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank Guys.

I do have a new crank and flywheel in hand.
The scooter is all apart, not just the engine.

The flywheel had almost come totally loose. It only took (guessing) around 100 to 120 lb/ft to get the gland loose. It has worked the eight dowel holes out of round. It was getting tired, starting to blow by more and more.

It is now becoming 86mm x thick92mm 2286cc. I have all the major parts except the thick wall VW9200T1KSF from aircoolednet.

If I can get some time this holiday I am going to finish the Mega Squirt.
Going to be fuel injected and distributer less.

Mikuni Throttle bodies.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sweet, what heads are those?? be sure to torque the shit out of that gland bolt. deburr the bolt flats& points so they dont grab/bite/gauld the washer, and I use moly lube on the threads and the washer when I torque it 400+
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DeathBySnuSnu
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's Roy's 050 heads with some minor work making them look more like a cb mini wedge port and good single springs and keepers.
Really like the extra cooling fins. I don't run a fan.
With more displacement under them I am going to have to increase chamber size.

Still trying to pick a cam. I have always run a 2246 in the scooter.
Emailed Pat and the most he suggested was a 2288 and more spring. Mainly because of my lack of having a true merged header.
I pretty much take his word as law......
So studying how I could get the exhaust right.
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67 Sunroof
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't waNna derail this thread but 400ft/lbs????
I'm putting together a stock 1600dp and thought it was like 230ft/lbs.....should I be doing 400ft/lbs too??? Wouldn't that affect end play as well? Should I get a cromo gland nut too?
Have a huge cart at cb and I can add it before Sunday if need be.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

'67 Sunroof wrote:
Don't waNna derail this thread but 400ft/lbs????
I'm putting together a stock 1600dp and thought it was like 230ft/lbs.....should I be doing 400ft/lbs too??? Wouldn't that affect end play as well? Should I get a cromo gland nut too?
Have a huge cart at cb and I can add it before Sunday if need be.

Stock 1600 doesn't need more than stock torque.

Hi-po does.
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