New 1904 - Guidance please

[Hustlers67]

Thanks Modok.

Yep, I will be adding the other holes for the velocity stacks.. it took me a couple of goes to understand what you have suggested.

I am thinking I will leave the whole thing, and drill a small hole in the filter assembly baseplate - that way I wont be messing with a part of the carb that I dont know what the impact will be.

[modok]

That is a good idea too. A few of my airfilters have a hole for that. When I run steel airboxes I just go ahead and use it!

BUT, with airfitlers that have two studs that hold the lid, it is underneath one of the studs that holds the lid.....

[Hustlers67]

Rockers - here is where I am at so far.

The photos show the rockers with 6 shims (4.48mm). I think this is one shim too much as it appears to have reduced the total lift. 5 shims got me close to the lift spec on the cam card and less than that the springs "popped" which I am guessing is coil bind ?

These are 1.25:1 rockers, they appear to be sold by many vendors with different branding (they appear to be similar to the Khultek ones). Cam is Webcam #163 261°@.050", .430 lift ( with1.1:1) , I cant find the numbers right now, but I have calculated the lift is actually .383 x 1.25:1 = .479. Have i done that right?

With 5 shims I measured the lift as being 12.16mm (which is .478”) – I measured from the top of the spring retainer.

With the 6 shims (as shown in these photos) it measures 11.34 (which is .446”) .. though I did this in a bit of a hurry this morning. So it may not be as accurate.

The head is torqued, stock single springs installed, I have got lash caps fitted. I set the lash at .004

The rockers are centred across all the lash caps. I am concerned that the “swipe” of the rocker face against the lashcap is only on the bottom half, it doesn’t really swipe across / use the whole rocker arm surface. Appears that all the pressure would be on the top of the lash cap, will this then impact on the valve guide?

Sorry the lighting is actually not very good in some pics.

zero lift:

50%

100% / full lift

Still a newbie - so be gentle...

Hus

[Dan Ruddock]

Lash .04? Should be .004

Shims under rockers or springs. With those type of rockers I like using little or no rocker stand shims.

Yes your .479 calculated lift is correct but don't trust that to be actual.

When I measure lift and rocker ratio I adjust to zero lash.

Dan

[Hustlers67]

Thanks Dan.

Yep - .004 *my bad.

Shims are under the rockers.

[Hustlers67]

So the build continues slowly, I am getting close to final mock up stage.

Looking for some ideas and opinions in relation to accurately monitoring oil pressure and oil temp. Here's the deal:

AS41 case (dual relief), oil plugs have been tapped and plugged, full flowed, will be running the CB oil tower breather, and the CB thin line oil sump. I also have a small oil cooler (approx 30cm x 15 x . Idea will be to plumb this cooler after the oil filter before the oil goes back to the case.

I want to keep the "idiot light" on the dash, but I also want an oil temp and pressure gauge. I also don't want to muck around with the two oil relief plug locations if it will affect how the plunger/switch will operate.

Any suggestions?

What senders? where?

[modok]

I actually don't believe in gauges as a general rule.
If the engine is built right then there will be no need to have a gauge telling you it's ok...you know it's ok, and if it isn't then what? You gonna worry about it? Worry about something else. Usually a sudden event like knocking the oil filter loose goes unnoticed until too late even with a idiot light.
Buy the BEST idiot light sensor you can, and wire it like it matters, and make sure it works. Make a habit of looking at it occasionally. In my experience.......the sensor fails more often than it has warned me of anything, thus my preference for "standard motor products" brand sensors, try napa.

If you do want a oil pressure gauge, (for reasons of vanity?), I would actually recommend a mechanical one. 1/8 copper line and a good mechanical gauge can be very accurate and last nearly forever. I am not the only one who feels this way. This can be hooked up anywhere. Oil cooler, T'd at stock sensor, at filter, ect.



For oil temp...... the oil filter mount is a good spot. Many oil filter mounts you can easily find a spot to tap for a 1/8 pipe sensor, or they already have a boss for it.

[Hustlers67]

Hello again

So I have dialed in my cam - got some interesting results. I'm waiting for a response from webcam directly to see if they think it's real issue.

I did encounter something strange in re-assembling the long block - the gudgeon pin for the no.1 rod is very tight.. As in too tight - I need to force it in and out. The other three rods don't have this issue, I can assemble the Pistons on the rods by hand. It is not the actual pin either.. It seems the brass bushing in the small end of the no.1 rod is fractionally smaller than the other three.

Either way all the pins fit perfectly in each of the Pistons. It's just the one rod that is tight. I have checked for burrs etc, even gave the brass bushing a bit of a rub with a scotchbrite pad, re-oiled and tried again. Still too tight to do by hand.

Should i worry? Is this an issue?

If it is a problem - What are my options for fixing it? I don't want to have it re-sized by a matchine shop unless absolutely necessary. Could I rub it back with fine wet and dry sandpaper (like1000 grit?). Any ideas?

[slalombuggy]

You might be able to get a brake hone in the bore and hone it out a few .0001. Make sure the stones are like new and go slow

brad

[modok]

[Hustlers67]

Thanks Brad and Modok.

It appears from your responses that it is something I need to fix. I will look into the hone option locally, my swimming isnt what it used to be.

What clearance / tolerance should I be aiming for with these? I think I have a bore gauge small enough.

[modok]

Specs are in the book. Guess.....I'd say
new specification .0004-.0008"
drag racing .0007-.001
wear limit .0015"
Starts making noise/possible kaboom limit .004"

[Hustlers67]

Ok - calling all camshaft gurus.

I have spent the last few mornings dialing in the cam, and I am not sure if what I am getting is way out or still acceptable. Have shot this info to webcam and haven't heard back yet - so putting it here for your thoughts and opinions.

Cam is a webcam 163 (+6). The cam card I got with the cam states:

Valve lift with 1.1:1 = 0.428
Duration (intake and exhaust) = 296
Duration @.50 (intake and exhaust) = 261
IO = 22.5 BTDC, IC = 58.5 ABDC
EO = 58.5 BBDC, EC = 22.5 ATDC

Now here's where it gets interesting, my measurements show:

Valve lift is 0.386 (so with 1.1:1 that's 0.424)
I'll skip duration for the moment...
IO = 30 BTDC, IC = 53 ABDC
EO = 66.5 BBDC, EC = 17.5 ATDC
That puts the duration @.50 at 263 for intake and at 264 for exhaust.

Difference on the intake and exhaust closing measurement to the card is approx 5-5.5 deg.
Difference on the intake and exhaust opening measurement to the card is approx 7.5-8 deg.

Lobe centre separation still comes out at 108.

I am concerned that the intake and exhaust opening numbers are way earlier than they should be, they are further out than the difference in the closing numbers .. And I am not experienced enough to know if this will cause problems.

To clarify – I checked this with a dial gauge, magnetically mounted to a metal work bench. The engine was also bracketed to the bench (so it wouldn’t move). The Cam is installed “straight up” and I went through the piston stop method to find true top dead centre on no.1 cylinder. I then "clocked" no.1 intake and exhaust.

I have a CB "dial a gear" helical cam gear - so can make adjustments.

Any thoughts on if this cam will still work (2187cc, cb044, twin dell40s).

Thanks in advance

[Hustlers67]

Here is the update. Looks like the cam needs to be retarded about 4 degrees. Not sure exactly how I will achieve this yet. I have put the engine internals to one side (mentally) for the moment while I look at other overall fitment issues... Like the distributor can interfering with the VS "best" linkage I am planning on running.

I am working on the tin ware and a "dry/unsealed" assembly / test fit. So the sidewinder exhaust means no heater boxes, do I worry about the industrial tin pieces? Or is it not essential?

I have seen the way glen (010) has sealed up under his engine - and I'm just not sure where to get these bits (in Australia). It's mild in the winter and hot in the summer here - I should get them eh?

Here is what the engine looks like currently:

[Lingwendil]

definitely get some industrial tins made up if you can, they make a difference.

also if you have vw fanhousing test and see if it fits, it will work better than that 36'er you've got. if not oh well.
_________________
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Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087!

[Hustlers67]

[Hustlers67]

I have done some more reading on valve train geometry. As a result I have reduced the height of the shim stack I had under the rocker block. I think my geometry at the valve is better. Though I am concerned that my swipe on no.1 exhaust valve is only contacting at a very small area of the lash cap.

No. 1 exhaust
Zero

50%

Full lift:

Here is the swipe contact, it looks okay for the intake - though this also appears to not be a flush / flat and even contact across the lash cap

you can see in this picture that the rocker is only touching the right side of the lash cap on the exhaust valve. How can I correct this?

What do you think?

[modok]

The angle of contact looks good from here IMO, but the contact patch is concerning. It could be any of the parts is crooked, but, I'd suspect the rocker itself. Mark Tucker said he had some like that and had to regrind the pads because they weren't square.

[Hustlers67]

Thanks Modok, do you think this is something that would wear into a more even contact patch?

The lash caps should be even and straight, I cooked them in oil and put them on hot so they seated all evenly ... So says my straight edge.

I'll check the others to see if this is a problem with other rockers in the set. Maybe I could replace just that one?

[Hustlers67]

2017 Update. I am doing final assembly now.

I have prettied things up a bit and am wiring up the control panel for starting the engine on the ground / stand. Hoping I can get this finalised on a weekend in the coming months. Still some fiddly little things to sort out though. Tricky when I only have a couple of hours each week.

I had an issue with the accelerator pumps on the Carbs, that's sorted now. I have also fitted a venturi ring into the fan shroud. I've just got my pushrods cut, so they will have to go in too. I need to trim one of the exhaust pipes as my motor is a bit narrow! Still got to finalise the plumbing too.

I have been trying to come up with a solution to get a good oil temperature reading, I have modified an AN10 "T" connector so that the sender can sit in it, see the pics. This will connect at the oil pump "out" before it hits the oil filter.. and then oil cooler. will get that installed in the coming days too.

oil temp and oil pressure gauge, oil pressure warning light, ignition switch and light, switch for all the accessories, starter push button and tacho..

Yes, sorry about the neck crank!

Still need to tidy it up and seal it in.