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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:11 am Post subject: 1977 fuel injected bay window fuel pump and timing issues |
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| I have recently removed my engine had the head rebuilt and installed the engine. I am guessing I have a wiring issue. Dual relay checks ok yet fuel pump is not running. I have jumped a wire to the pump and it functions with proper fuel pressure. The other issue is timing. Can the distributor be 180 off? Also what order do the wires go back on the coil? I'm new here please help my bus!! I want it!! |
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Daverham Samba Member

Joined: August 27, 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Two cents to get you started. I believe your fuel pump relay will only kick on if the AFM is telling it to do so. You can test this by turning your key to ON and sticking a pencil down the AFM to manually open the flap. You should hear the relay click and the pump start running.
There are probably some precautions that should be inserted here, like "don't do that for too long" or whatever. I'm not sure. Maybe you can look this procedure up in a nice Bentley manual or do some forum searching for that.
At least this might help you isolate the problem... |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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| When I trigger the AFM the fuel pump runs. I have gone through all of the fuel tests. Still not running. I believe I have the coil wires wrong. I have used the wiring diagrams yet it seems that they are all different. My coil is actualy getting hot. So more reason to believe I got it wrong. It fires runs for a second then acts like it runs out of fuel. The coil does feed a current to the ecu. Yet I'm stuck!! |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52708
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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| You should have a white wire from the ECU going to the negative side of the coil. It should hook up right next to the green wire going to our condenser and points. |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok guys thanks for the coil info. Now it will Start and run if I trick the airflow sensor. Otherwise it's not getting fuel. Any ideas on that one? |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok guys thanks for the coil info. Now it will Start and run if I trick the airflow sensor. Otherwise it's not getting fuel. Any ideas on that one? |
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Bleyseng Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2005 Posts: 4759 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Black wire from the backup lites along the drivers side should be plugged into the + side of the coil. Check the inline fuse too as it also powers the dual relay. _________________ 70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Duel relay is getting power and fuse is good. Engine will run and idle if I stick a screw driver in the air flow sensor to open it a little. |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Duel relay is getting power and fuse is good. Engine will run and idle if I stick a screw driver in the air flow sensor to open it a little. |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53188 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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Give your posts a few seconds to load or stop doubleclicking the post button
The fuse is just for the backup lights but the wire going to it also carries on and supplies the DR, if you are positive it's got power from the coil and the terminal/wire where it joins the DR isn't broken internally then suspect the DR itself. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні! |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Dual relay has been tested and is new. |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52708
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Phishpimpin wrote: |
| Duel relay is getting power and fuse is good. Engine will run and idle if I stick a screw driver in the air flow sensor to open it a little. |
Pop the lid off the AFM and make sure the points for the fuel pump relay are closing as soon as the vane moves away from the fully closed position. |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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I am fairly confident it is a wiring issue at the coil. I have 2 black wires to the + side. To the - side I have red(to points and condenser) white going to cu, white/ green into harnes going through fire wall. This said harness going through the fire wall hosts a total of 3 wires. Black, black blue , and white/green. Can any of you identify where each of thees wires go.
The engine ran coming out only on three cylinders because of a burnt valve. I have checked all the other components. They all function within the recommendations of my manual. |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53188 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Remove the green/white wire, it was for the test network, tape it up and avoid future issues. The black wire is power from the key and the black/blue is for the oil pressure sensor. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Now that the coil is wired correctly I'm getting some where. When the manual says the air flow meter should move freely, how free is that? Can the airflow meter be adjusted? |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42934 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Leave the AFM adjustments alone or things will go from bad to disaster.
The engine should create enough draw to open the AFM door. If it only will start when the screw driver pushes the door, then the points inside the top may be out of adjustment. I also think that the the red and white wire from the starter is supposed to start the fuel pump when the key is turned to start. _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53188 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| The engine should create enough draw to open the AFM door.. |
Unless the vacuum leak elsewhere in the system is so big it can't create enough flow to open it. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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78Kombi Samba Member

Joined: October 05, 2006 Posts: 1043 Location: Western Mass
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Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:11 am Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| SGKent wrote: |
| The engine should create enough draw to open the AFM door.. |
Unless the vacuum leak elsewhere in the system is so big it can't create enough flow to open it. |
yeah like the s-boot hose clamps are loose or something _________________ 78 hightop 2.0 FI
| Wildthings wrote: |
no engine that I know of will run off of hype.
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Phishpimpin Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2010 Posts: 11 Location: Washington state
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Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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| So I went ahead and totally jacked around the afm. Bus is now running and going down the road. Oops should have checked here first. Hopefuly I haven't created a huge problem. Thanks to all of you for the help. I would not have gotten this far without it!! |
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busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53188 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Phishpimpin wrote: |
| So I went ahead and totally jacked around the afm. Bus is now running and going down the road. Oops should have checked here first. Hopefuly I haven't created a huge problem. Thanks to all of you for the help. I would not have gotten this far without it!! |
Can't wait to see how this ends. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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